Remodeling : Picture Rail Molding : Home & Garden Television

Help Around the House host Henry Harrison shows how to use a laser level to quickly install a picture rail molding. On his elbow grease scale of one to four, Harrison gives this job a three.

Tools:

ladders
portable work bench
miter saw
clamps
scrap wood
coping saw
compass
combination square
sliding T-bevel
hammer
nail punch
file
push drill
caulking gun
folding rule
sandpaper
laser level (rental)
molding
nails
caulk
spackle

Figure A

Figure B

Figure C

Figure D

Steps:

1. Determine desired height of new molding and set the laser level accordingly (figure A). Turn on the laser level and slowly rotate it with the remote control to get a feel for how it works.

2. Cut the molding pieces to fit, using the miter saw to make 45-degree cuts on the ends of pieces that need to be joined (figure B).

3. Installing the molding will probably be a two-person job. Have a friend align one end with the dot from the laser level, then while you're holding the other end use the remote to move the laser along the piece until it gets to the opposite end (figure C).

4. Use a push drill to make a pilot hole in the molding (figure D), then secure with finishing nails. Insert the nails in the contours of the molding and they'll be less likely to show. Do not drive the nails all the way in, but just far enough to hold the molding.

5. Carefully measure for pieces that fit into the corner, taking into account the beveled edge of the last piece mounted on the wall. Use a folding rule with extendable tip.

Figure E

Figure F

6. Use a sliding T-bevel to get the angles in the corners. In this case, one of the angles was greater than 90 degrees. Divide the angle into two cuts for best results. Just transfer the full angle onto a board (figure E).

7. Use a compass to mark points equally distant from the center of the angle (figure F).

Figure G

Figure H

Figure I

8. Move the compass point to each of the marks, and draw intersecting arcs in the center of the angle (figure G). The intersecting point marks the center of your angle. Set the sliding T-bevel to this angle (figure H) and transfer the angle to your miter saw (figure I).

9. Cut the special angle at one end, and cut a 45-degree angle on the other end so the end overlaps the cut on the previously mounted piece.

Figure J

Figure K

Figure L

10. Cut your other special angle and install in the corner, using the laser level to make sure everything's straight (figure J).

11. Since the first piece of molding was installed flush against the wall in the corner, use a coping saw to make a cope cut that will allow the end of the last piece to follow the contour of the molding (figure K).

12. File down the cope cut, and slide the last piece into position in the corner, again making sure it's level by aligning with the dot of the laser level (figure L).

13. Once everything's in position, drive the finishing nails on in and set below the surface using a nail set. Hide the nail heads with a bit of spackle, then run a bead of caulk along all the seams to give the rail a finished look.

Also in this Episode

Help Around the House : Episode ARH-246
•	Painting Paneling
•	Securing Floor-mounted Electrical Outlet
•	Picture Rail Molding
•	Toolbox: Nail Stopper

Remodeling

Picture Rail Molding

Tools

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