Install a Ceramic Tile Floor

Tools:

prybars
gloves
pencil
kneepads
safety glasses
scrapers
tape measure
wet saw (rent one if you like)
slip-joint pliers
buckets
sponge
grout trowels (sometimes called grout floats)
grout bag
rubber gloves
dust mask and safety glasses
grout
mortar adhesive
laytex liquid
tiles
spacers

1. First clear the kitchen, including moving out the appliances. Carefully pry off molding, and label the pieces as you go to make putting them back easier.

2. Scrape up old vinyl floor and toss the pieces into large garbage bags. Remove the old adhesive from the sub-floor by scraping it off (figure A). Wear eye protection and a dust mask. Vacuum up the dust and sweep up any large pieces of debris.

3. Find and mark the center point of the room. Measure each wall and mark the center point. Pull a chalk line between the points of opposing walls and pop. The intersection of the two chalk lines is the center of your room (figure B).

4. Start laying out the tiles at the center point and work out toward the walls (figure C). Use little rubber spacers to keep the tiles evenly spaced (figure D).

5. Measure and mark the edge tiles to cut (figure E). Make the best use of your tile stock by getting as many cuts from each piece as possible.

6. Cut trim pieces using a wet saw equipped with a diamond-tipped blade (figure F). Keep the tile edge against the fence of the saw, and carefully ease the tile through. Do not force it.

7. You may need to make special cuts in some pieces to fit around pipes coming up through the floor (figure G).

8. Once you've dry-fit the tiles and you're happy with the layout, mix up some thin-set adhesive. In this project Harrison used liquid latex instead of water for added flexibility. Mix according to directions in a large bucket.

9. Remove a few tiles and spread a layer of mortar with the trowel. The notched side of the trowel will spread the mortar in a nice, even layer (figure H). Work quickly as the mortar will start setting up in about 30 minutes.

10. Place the tile back and press to get a good fit (figure I). Clean excess mortar off the tiles as you go with a damp sponge. The main rules to follow as you do this is to work fast and keep the tiles even.

11. After all the tiles are in place wait a couple of days then come back and add the grout and put on the finishing touches.

12. Mix the grout according to directions in a large bucket. Use precise measurements when mixing so you achieve a consistent color. The grout is ready when it holds its shape on the trowel. Remove the plastic spacers before applying grout.

13. One option for applying the grout is to fill a grout bag with mixture and pipe it into the cracks. In this case the grout mixture was pretty thick, so it was applied using grout floats.

15. Continue working until all the cracks are filled with grout. The excess grout will dry to a light haze on top of the tiles (figure K). Once you're finished come back and clean up the excess grout on top of the tiles before it dries.

16. Use a grout sponge with a rounded edge and a bucket of clean water to clean up the tiles (figure L). The rounded edges will prevent you from removing grout from the cracks.

17. It will take about three passes to remove all the excess grout. Dip the sponge in the bucket of water and wring it out frequently to keep it clean.

18. Run a bead of caulk along the perimeter of the floor, between the edge of the floor and the wall. Choose a caulk that matches the color of your grout. Replace any moldings you removed when the job is finished.

19. If desired, come back in a few weeks and apply a sealer. Proper care is essential to make your tile floor last. When cleaning your new floor, follow the directions provided by the tile manufacturer.