Build a Greenhouse

1. It's a good idea to lay out all of the materials in your greenhouse kit (figure A).

2. To build the subfloor, we first positioned a 44-5/8" x 96" plywood floor panel on the rear side
of the framework, flush to the edges and centered along the center braces.

3. We nailed the floor panel down along the outside and inside corners (figure B.

4. Next, we nailed down the remaining panels, all with the edges flush against the previous ones and secured to the floor framing with nails at the corners. Be sure to align the plywood on the grain to maintain the strength of the floor.

5. With all floor panels flush with the outside edges of the frame, we drove nails in every 12 inches through the floor panels and into all the bond boards, joists and braces.

Assemble Walls

1. We began by arranging the 2x4s and 2x6s to construct our first wall. This is our six-foot wall and is the tallest wall of our greenhouse.

2. We aligned the precut lumber and nailed the parts together using two 3-inch nails at each connection. We used our pneumatic framing gun to help speed up the process. Be sure to wear safety goggles whenever using a pneumatic nailer.

Attach the Panels

1. After we had the first wall completed we began constructing the framing for the wall with the door. We laid out our 2x4s and then nailed them together using our pneumatic nailer.

3. Next, we began work on the 36" short wall. We nailed the 2x6s and 2x4s together, again using our framing gun, and then attached the siding to this wall also.

4. We repeated the process with the final wall of our greenhouse and set it aside.

Raise/Brace Walls

2. We aligned the wall with the edge of the subfloor and drove 3" nails through the 2x4s and into the floor to secure the wall in place.

3. Next, we moved one of our side walls into place, making sure that the wall aligned correctly with the subfloor, and then secured it to the floor using our framing gun . We also secured this wall to the first wall from the inside with our 3" nails.

4. We attached our remaining two walls in the same manner, making sure they were firmly secured to the floor and each other.

5. Finally, we went around the outside of our building and drove siding nails through the overhang and into the floor framing.

Erect Trusses

1. Standing securely on a ladder, we lifted and set our first truss into place. Remember while working on a ladder to always keep both hands on the rungs when climbing and never step onto the top two rungs of the ladder. Also never attempt to overreach or stretch while standing on a ladder.

2. We set the end of the truss flush with the top of the wall and secured it from below with 3" galvanized screws.

3. We then secured the opposite side of the truss with the screws.

5. With all the trusses attached, we inserted 1x2 rafter ties (figure F) and secured then with siding nails. We also inserted the rafter spacers, securing them with staples.

Install Roof Panels/Trim

1. We lifted the gable into place and attached it with siding nails.

3. Next, we attached the fascias flush with the bottom of the 2x6 top plate. We butted the fascia boards tightly against one another and secured them to the top plate using 2" nails, 12 inches apart.

4. Next, we trimmed out the door opening.

5. To attach the roof panels, we started at the top of the roof and attached the plywood using 2" nails. We placed the panels beginning at one corner of the roof and making certain that the panel edge was flush with the edge of our building. We also made sure that the panel was centered on one of our trusses.

6. We continued applying the roof panels leaving a 1/16" gap between the panels to allow for expansion.

7. Next, we attached the roof panels using a pneumatic nailer to nail on the trim around the roofline and all four corners of our walls. This trim will not only cover the joint edges, but will also create a nice and finished look for our building.

Lay Shingles

1. Our first step in laying shingles was to apply the roofing felt to the decking. We rolled out the felt, secured it with roofing nails and used a utility knife to trim off the ends.

2. Starting at the bottom of the roof line, we nailed the first row of shingles, securing them with sixpenny galvanized ring-shanked nails. The shingles should extend 1-1/2 inch past the edge of the roof on both the bottom and the sides.

3. We laid another row of shingles over the first, making sure to lap the joints by at least 1-1/2 inch. This double-starter row will ensure that water won't reach the roof decking.

5. We continued this process until we completed the entire roof, making sure to lap all of our joints as we applied the shingles.

6. To cover the roof peak we used ridge cap pieces placed across the peak and nailed on each side of the ridge. Be sure to nail high enough so the next piece of ridge cap will hide the nails.

Attach the Door/Window

1. Using a reciprocating saw, we cut out the opening for the window. Be sure to wear eye and ear protection with using a power saw.

3. We secured the window in the frame with four 2" nails.

4. We also installed trim pieces around the window frame. We used a pneumatic nailer to attach the top piece, the two side pieces and then the bottom piece.

5. After we had the door assembled, we lifted it into place and drove 3" screws through the center holes of the hinges to attach it to the building.

6. Next, we drilled the holes for our doorknob and attached the doorknob assembly, lock and the strike plate.

Install Windows

1. We began installing the windows by placing foam tape along all of the outside edges of the rafters and fascia to provide a weather seal.

2. We then carefully lifted our first window and placed it into the opening between the rafters and secured it with the nails provided by the manufacturer.

3. We installed our remaining three windows in the same manner as the first.

5. The finished product (figure J).