Remodeling : Lighted Brick Mailbox : Home & Garden Television

You can add curb appeal to your home by building a brick mailbox. As a bonus, you'll be protecting your mailbox against vandalism.

You can use a masonry chisel to cut bricks to shorter lengths.

For a precise cut, use a masonry blade on a circular saw.

A lighted brick mailbox is not only much more durable than a standard mailbox on a pole, but also makes a beautiful addition to the front lawn. This fortified depository features cinder block construction on the inside covered by a layer of bricks topped off with a decorative light fixture.

Tools and materials:

shovel
electrical cable rated for outdoor underground applications
masonry trowel
framing square
wheelbarrow
pre-mixed mortar (equal portions of sand and Portland cement)
level
measuring tape
work gloves
solid bricks
cored bricks
concrete blocks

Steps:

If you've got an existing mailbox, you'll need to remove it. Remove all of the dirt from around the base of the post. Mailbox posts are often set in concrete. However, yours may be attached to a metal stake. This will make it easier to remove. If your post is set in concrete, you'll probably need to remove all of the concrete before pouring the footer for your brick mailbox.

Dig a hole for your footer (figure A). Check local codes to determine the required depth for your footer. In most cases, the footer should be at least 8 inches deep. You should also make the hole a few inches wider than the mailbox will be.

Lay one end of underground outdoor electrical cable at the mailbox location. Leave enough slack for the cable to extend through the top of the mailbox to power your light fixture.

Mix fast-drying concrete to create the mailbox footer. The concrete should be the consistency of oatmeal. After you reach the proper consistency, you'll have 45 minutes to work with the concrete before it begins to set.

Pour the concrete over the end of the electrical cable, and use the back of the shovel to smooth the concrete to a level surface (figure B). You'll probably need to mix more than one batch of concrete to completely fill the hole.

While waiting for the concrete to dry, you can connect the cable to the main breaker box. Run a 12-inch-deep trench from the mailbox to the breaker box, and lay the wiring inside the trench (figure C). Then have a licensed electrician connect the end of the cable to your main box.

After the footing is dry, you can start laying the concrete block foundation. Two 8"X8"X16" blocks will work well for this application. Use a trowel to mark reference points for the placement of the blocks.

Mark the center reference point on the far end of the footer. Then use a framing square to mark the outside edges and any other edges where blocks will rest.

Mix equal portions of Portland cement, sand and water to the same consistency as the concrete for the footer. (You can also use pre-mixed mortar.)

Lay mortar along each line where the edge of a block will rest (figure D). Place plenty of mortar on each line.

Lay a block on each line and press it into place (figure E). Make sure there's enough mortar to support the block. Then lay another block beside the first one using the same procedure.

Begin a second run of blocks, making sure to keep your electrical cable accessible (figure F). Spread mortar along the edges of the first blocks, then set the next run of blocks on top of them. Stack the second run perpendicular to the first blocks.

Lay plenty of mortar along the footing where the first course of bricks will be placed (figure G).

Lay the first brick into position and press it gently into the mortar. (You may need to adjust the placement of the bricks later.) Apply mortar to one end of the next brick (figure H) and butt it against the first brick (figure I).

Continue placing bricks end to end. Occasionally check for level and scrape off any excess mortar. You should also periodically check for square by measuring the distance of each brick from the block foundation. Adjust the placement of the bricks so that the measurement is equal on all sides.

Work your way around the base until the course is done. Then use a framing square to be sure you're starting with a square base.

For an interesting pattern variation, use a "soldier" course (bricks placed on end) for the fourth course of bricks (figure J). Start the course approximately 1/2 inch from the edge of the third row so that the edge of the underlying brick is exposed (this exposed brick is referred to as a "reveal"). You can use cored bricks in the middle of the course; however, the corner bricks should be solid.

After the soldier course is set but before the mortar has dried, press a striking tool into the joints to create a depression in the mortar (figure K). This process is known as "striking the joints." If you remove too much mortar, add more to the joint and smooth it out.

Before you begin the next course, lay metal straps across the bricks and blocks to tie the remaining courses together (figure L).

Add another row of concrete blocks perpendicular to the row underneath (figure M).

For the next course of bricks, return to the horizontal rows used earlier (figure N). Continue with the horizontal course until you reach the areas where you want to install the newspaper box. If you have extra bricks, you can use them as interior fill instead of concrete block to make a level platform for the newspaper box (figure O).

Add a large bed of mortar to secure the newspaper box (figure P). You'll be treating the box as if it were a large brick. Use your level to angle the newspaper box slightly forward so that it doesn't collect water.

Install a soldier course on the front of the structure next to the newspaper box (figure Q). Continue using horizontal courses on the sides and in the back.

Before you begin laying bricks on top of the box, wedge some bricks in the front to prevent the top from sagging.

Add two more horizontal courses to separate the mailbox from the newspaper box.

After you reach the level where you want your mailbox, center the mailbox on the bricks and move it around for a placement that suits your taste. Be sure to allow enough clearance for the door to open (figure R). Mark the mailbox on either side to indicate the distance it will stick out of the brick structure.

Remove the box and lay a thick bed of mortar. Place the mailbox on top of the bricks, and press it into place.

Install another soldier course next to the mailbox to mirror the one for the newspaper box. Then fill in the gaps around the mailbox with mortar.

Install two more horizontal rows above the mailbox. Then extend the next course of brick over the edge of the bricks below to create a reveal (figure S). Be sure that the holes in the cored brick are covered on the bottom and top.

"Step up" the remaining courses above the overhang, with each course closer to the center than the row below it (figure T).

Use solid bricks on top of the mailbox. This will protect the surface and provide a solid base for the light fixture. Make sure the bricks on top are level and that the electrical cable is in the center. Then fill in the gaps with mortar.

Wait a few hours for the mortar to dry. Then use a stiff-bristle brush to remove loose particles from the mailbox. After two days, the mortar will be dry enough for you to install the light fixture.

Remodeling

Lighted Brick Mailbox

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