Murphy Bed Kit

Fix It Up! : Episode FIX-913 -- More Projects »
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The bookshelves look great when the bed is hidden.
If you need a little extra sleeping space for guests or want to create a fun addition to a child's room, then the Murphy bed is the perfect bedroom accessory. The ultimate space saver, this "bed in a wall" can transform any room into a dual-purpose room. Pat and Jodi show how to install a Murphy bed from a prefabricated kit.

Assemble Cabinet Frame

1. We first laid the right and left side panels flat on the floor with the holes facing up.

2. Next, we located the holes on the side panels for the header, headboard, valance and the toekick and screwed the supplied steel dowels into the corresponding holes on the panels. We then screwed in the steel dowels on the face of the header.

3. Next, we installed the locking cams flush into the 15mm holes, aligning the slot to clear the steel dowel. We placed the head board over the steel dowels, making sure the cam holes faced toward the rear. We twisted the cams turning clockwise to lock them into the holes.

4. We assembled the header and valance, then placed the assembly over the left side panel and joined the steel dowels to the corresponding holes locking the cams in place.

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Figure A
5. Next, we connected the assembly to the right side panel using the same procedure --joining the steel dowels and tightening the cam locks. We checked all of the cam locks (figure A) to be sure they were securely locked.

Mount Cabinet

1. To ease the baseboard from the wall we first scored the caulking with a utility knife and then used a pry bar to remove the molding being careful not to damage the walls.

2. After we assembled our first shelving unit, we stood the cabinets in place and then used a stud finder to locate the studs. We made a mark at each of the stud locations and then pushed the first cabinet up to our side all.

3. We checked the cabinet for plumb and level with our 4' level and screwed it into the wall with 3" screws at each of our stud locations.

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Figure B
4. Next, we moved the main cabinet into place--beside the first--and once again checked for plumb and level. We attached this cabinet to the wall in the same manner as the first cabinet (figure B). Be sure to wear safety glasses when working overhead.

Assemble Wall Frame

1. We laid out the wall side panels onto the floor. Then, following the manufacturer's instructions, we located the holes for the steel dowels and installed them with our screwdriver.

2. Be sure to screw the steel dowels in correctly so that they will create the tightest fit possible when joined with the cams.

3. Next, we attached the bottom and the stationary shelves to one of the side panels by tightening the cams. We then aligned the dowels of the second side panel to the cams of the assembly and carefully maneuvered them into place. We once again tightened the cams using our screwdriver.

4. Finally, attached the header and valance in the same manner as the previous parts of the assembly.

Attach Track

1. After we had the last cabinet securely attached to the wall we began working on the track system for the sliding shelves. We aligned the aluminum "I-beam" track behind the valance, setting it flush against the edge.

2. We used the supplied screws to secure the track to the header.

Next, we butted the second track up against the first, flush with the valance, and then drove the supplied screws into the pre-drilled holes.

3. Next, we attached the "I-beam" track along the bottom of the wall unit. We aligned the track with the bottom shelf of the wall unit and then drove the supplied screws into the unit.

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Figure C
4. We then installed the first end bumper stop (figure C) onto the far side of the "I-beam" track and placed the sliding shelves onto the tracks to be sure they worked properly.

5. Finally, we attached the second end bumper. The end bumpers will keep the door from hitting against the side valances and damaging them.

Assemble Floor Base

1. We began assembling the floor base according to the manufacturer's directions. This base is what the bed will pivot on, and it will be attached to the floor with lag bolts.

2. Next, we placed the assembly into our wall unit, centering it from left to right, and used a utility knife to cut a slit into the carpet on both sides of the frame.

3. We removed the frame and cut out the section of carpet and padding using our utility knife.

4. Next, we repositioned the frame on the floor inside of the main cabinet and attached it with lag bolts.

5. Using a power drill, we drilled pilot holes in the floor and then drove in the anchor screws through the floor board using our ratchet wrench.

Assemble Bed Frame

1. We laid out the cross members of the bed frame, as well as the left and right outer rails.

2. We bolted the side rails to the cross members with the supplied hex bolts being sure to only hand-tighten the nuts. Once we had the pieces assembled, we checked the assembly to be sure it was square. We then tightened down all of the nuts with our ratchet.

3. Next, we turned over the bed frame assembly and laid out the left and right legs. We began assembling our legs and cross members according to the manufacturer's directions.

4. Once the pieces were assembled, we secured them to the bed frame with the provided hardware.

5. We turned the bed frame back over and inserted the top portion of the frame into the floor base.

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Figure D
6. Next, we attached the foot actuators (figure D) to the base with the provided screws.

7. Our final step was to attach the mattress stay bar.

Install Springs

1. To install the springs, we attached one spring in the outermost hole on the side of the base angle. Using pliers, we gripped the top of the spring and stretched it upwards and hooked it onto the spring bar assembly. Be sure to work slowly and carefully when operating the tension on the springs.

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Figure E
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Figure F
2. We pulled the bed frame down and placed the first piece of the mattress foundation onto the frame (figure E). We then returned the bed into the vertical position and secured the mattress foundation to the bed frame with the supplied screws. We repeated the same process with the second pieces of the mattress foundation.

3. For the final piece of the foundation, we first placed the mattress strap between the foundation and the frame and then attached the screw through the frame hole and strap to tighten it into the foundation (figure F). We once again pulled the frame to the horizontal position, placed the mattress onto the foundation and secured it with the mattress strap.

Resources
Murphy Bed Kit
Queen size library bed, natural maple; suggested price: $2,600
Murphy Bed Products
Website: www.murphybedsdirect.com
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