Late-Winter Digging Chores

Getting started
Before getting started, Paul recommends doing a few stretch exercises to avoid the possibility of injury. "If you've been cooped up all winter, the last thing you want to do is head out to the garden and tackle even routine tasks without warming up," says Paul.

After cutting back a pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana), Paul discovered that this mature clump is thinning out in the center (figure A), not uncommon as an ornamental grass ages. If he wanted to save this grass, he could use a post-hole digger to create a planting hole in the center of the clump and plant a one-gallon container of the same grass. Doing so quickly fills in the center of the clump. (Although this is a great fix, Paul chooses to dig up the grass instead: "It's too big for this area, and I never really liked it here anyway," he says.)

Most grasses, such as maiden grass (Miscanthus) and fountain grass (Pennisetum), are relatively easy to dig out. However, pampas grass can pose a challenge because it has a massive root system. Plus, Paul's clump is even more difficult to reach because it's growing right along the stone border edging.

To begin, Paul stabs a pointed shovel into the ground at an angle toward the plant, roughly a foot from its edge, and works his way around the clump, uplifting and loosening the soil around the grass. As he gets close to the stone border, he switches to the sharpshooter shovel (long, narrow head and short handle).

Next he uses a serrated shovel whose sharp tines make it easier to break up heavy soils and dense roots. Following the outline and angle already established with the pointed shovel, he uses the serrated shovel to sever the thick mass of roots below ground. He does this with a combination of forcefully stabbing the ground and using his foot on the top of the shovel blade to dig deeply.

Since he still has some roots refusing to budge, Paul uses a long-handled root cutter to sever even more of the roots, especially those near the center of the clump. He relies on the root cutter's long handle to give him more leverage and get deeper to the roots. Finally, after using the stone border as a fulcrum, he is able to pry the pampas grass out of the ground.

Transplanting shrubs

Paul's next dig involves a dormant Heptacodium miconioides, or seven-son flower of Zhejiang, located in a shady spot in his yard. It has never flowered because it isn't getting enough sun in its current location.

A native to China, this rare, multi-stemmed shrub is hardy in USDA Zones 5 to 7(8) and reaches heights up to 15 to 20 feet tall. Heptacodium produces white, jasmine-like, sweet-scented flowers in fall and a nice, exfoliating bark, reminiscent of a crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica). After doing some research, Paul learns that it is easy to transplant and prefers an acidic, well-draining soil. So he locates a better location in his yard that offers suitable soil and light conditions.

Next, Paul moves to a multi-stemmed willow (Salix) about six to eight feet tall. Most willows, including the weeping forms, prefer moist soil, where they develop massive root systems. In fact, they're often planted in low-lying areas and along streams and ponds, where they help hold the soil in place and prevent erosion. They are also highly susceptible to insect damage and disease, so with few exceptions, they generally are not the best choice for the landscape. Since he has never liked this unsightly shrub in its current location, he decides to remove it (figure C).

First, he cuts back the top growth so he can more easily reach the base of the plant. Using the same tools and techniques to dig out the pampas grass, he works to dig out the root ball of the willow, relying most heavily on the serrated shovel.

Products

serrated shovel – Gardener's Supply Company
long-handled root cutter – Gempler's
long-handled pointed shovel, sharpshooter shovel – available at most garden centers