Little Trees

Gardening by the Yard : Episode GBY-902 -- More Projects »

Figure A

You can't beat the canopy provided by big trees, but big trees can create some big problems in small yards. For example, a mulberry tree dwarfs this small yard (figure A); the impenetrable shade has choked out the lawn, and the overhanging branches have scraped the roof and dumped debris that clogs the rain gutter, and every year the cracks in the sidewalk get bigger as the roots grow. Problems like these may even cause structural damage to the home.

Figure B

Although this Japanese pagoda tree (Sophora japonica) is a good choice for a small yard (30 feet tall and about 20 feet wide), it's a little too close to the house (figure B). Originally it was intended to hide the air conditioner unit, but within a year or two, the homeowners will be pruning this tree every year to keep it off the roof and the windows. That's why it's important to consider the size of the tree above and below ground. The canopy of a tree can grow into electrical and phone lines while the roots can cause structural problems and interfere with underground plumbing and utilities. "Know what you're planting before you plant it," says small-tree expert and master gardener Fred Hoffman.

Figure C

When choosing a small tree for your small yard, Hoffman suggests answering the following question first: How far will the tree be from a walkway, your house, your neighbor's fence, a septic system, a swimming pool? For most city lots, the tree should be about halfway between the fence and the house. Use a stake to mark the location for the tree, then measure to make sure you stay at least eight feet away from the foundation of your house, which is where the underground water, electrical, sewer and utility lines are located. "I've picked out a pretty good tree for our small yard; it's a Japanese maple, the Atropurpureum variety (figure C)," he says. "When it's fully grown, the branches won't be touching the roof or the fence."

Figure D

Figure E

Figure F

Figure G

Figure H

Figure I

Figure J

If you're going to plant in a lawn area, clear enough grass so the tree's roots don't compete with the lawn's roots for nutrients (figure D). Clear a planting area that's larger than the width of the root system to eliminate the No. 1 reason for a plant's demise--death by lawn mower. Loosen the soil to the depth of a spading fork to give the tree's roots a chance to get established (figure E). The native soil is what the tree will have to live in over the next 25 years, so don't add amendments. Set the tree about one inch above the soil line (figure F) to allow for settling.

The Japanese maple will do well in part shade, a common situation in small yards. After planting the tree, Hoffman recommends applying a small meal of a balanced fertilizer, fish emulsion and seaweed to give it a good start. Next, add three to four inches of bark mulch to help keep the grass out and moisture in (figure G). Hoffman trims the perimeter of the planting area with a brick rim to protect the tree from the lawn mower (figure H).

The backyard isn't the only space where small trees flourish. For example, small trees look great in side yards, too, even between two driveways (figure I). For a tall, narrow tree, Hoffman suggests planting an ornamental pear, the 'Chanticleer' pear (figure J) which gets to about 40 feet tall with a width only about 15 feet. And what can you plant near a swimming pool that doesn't have invasive roots or excessive debris? Hoffman suggests a mayten tree (Maytenus), which grows up about 30 feet and out about 15 feet, and best of all, it's not messy. The crabapple is also a good choice for a small yard. Most fruit trees don't have an invasive root system. The crabapple gets about 20 feet tall and even better, it gives you a great show, complete with flowers in the spring and wonderful fall color.

All this tree talk is great, but what if you don't even have a yard? "Just because you don't have a patch of dirt outside your back door doesn't mean you can't have a great looking tree," says Hoffman. "Containers are the way to go!"

Figure K

Figure L

Pick a good-sized container--like a half-barrel--then choose a plant that will do well in a barrel like this dwarf citrus tree (figure K). You'll need a good quality potting soil and another very important accessory, a plant dolly (figure L).

"Unless you are a big fan of chiropractors or hernias, I suggest you put your half barrel on a plant dolly before you fill it with dirt." Make sure the dolly you choose is capable of holding the total weight of the container filled with soil and planted with the tree. "

Citrus trees need six to eight hours of sun each day so portability is crucial to growing on covered patios. Having wheels lets you steer the plant into the sun's path." In colder areas, move it closer to the house or indoors during periods of extended frost.

"So you see, in small yards, small trees just make sense," Hoffman says, "and the best part is, compared to their taller counterparts, they require less pruning, less water, less fertilizer and all around less maintenance. I guess less really is more!"

Guests
Fred ("Farmer Fred") Hoffman
www.farmerfred.com
Also in this Episode

Gardening by the Yard : Episode GBY-902
•	Trees: Branching Out
•	Gardener's Q&A
•	Little Trees
•	Garden Closeup

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