Host John Greenlee provides an informative overview of crape myrtle--from its care requirements and distinctive varieties, to appropriate propagation methods.
Background information and tips:
- Crape myrtle requires full sun, slightly acidic soil with good drainage and minimal fertilizer.
- The plants can be pruned anytime after the leaves have fallen.
- If pruned too early in the fall, new growth may emerge too soon and be killed by the first freeze.
- Crape myrtle should not be pruned hard on an annual or regular basis; severe pruning can induce excess vegetable growth, basal sprouting and fewer (however, larger) flower panicles. It also spoils the beautiful winter branch structure on the plant.
- Crape myrtle can be propagated vegetatively by softwood, hardwood or root cuttings. When propagating, keep the following facts in mind:
- Softwood cuttings root easily when taken in spring or summer.
- Hardwood cuttings from dormant plants also root easily, although use of rooting hormone improves rooting percentages.
- Root cuttings may be dug in early spring and planted in the greenhouse. (Root cuttings root inconsistently.)
- Seed capsules ripening in the fall may be collected, dried and stored in sealed containers. (No seed pre-treatment is necessary and seeds will germinate within three weeks after sowing.)
- Crape myrtle varieties featured here include:
- Acoma (white)
- Biloxi (light pink)
- Caddo (bright pink)
- Hopi (medium pink)
- Lipan (lavender)
- Tonto (fuschia)
- In cooler climates, lilac makes a good substitute for crape myrtle.
