Pruning 101

When to Prune

Trim deciduous trees and shrubs during their dormant season, and prune spring-flowering trees and shrubs immediately after they bloom to increase bloom for the following spring. Prune fruit trees in their dormant season and in the summer and evergreens in the spring.

Before you begin pruning, step back, look at your tree or shrub and take note of the shape. Notice whether it is misshapen, and visualize the shape it should be. You'll need sharp loppers and possibly a sturdy hand saw, depending on the size of the tree or shrub.

Remove the canes (sometimes called suckers) that have sprouted directly from the roots of the tree. The most effective way to do this is by "grubbing" them out with a hoe. Not all trees produce suckers.

In addition to being unsightly, water sprouts--the straight, rapidly growing shoots that appear along larger branches of fruit trees and some shade trees--can drain vigor from a tree. Lop off each sprout back to the branch, leaving just a bit of wood on the branch. This cut thins the tree or bush, allows light to reach the innermost leaves and increases air circulation.

Sometimes it is necessary to remove a branch completely, as larger branches compete with small ones, leaving the latter weak and targets for disease. Crowded branches can also allow moisture to accumulate, creating the perfect environment for rot. Branches that cross and rub against each other can cause wounds, leaving the tree susceptible to disease.

Remove the bulk of the branch to get rid of excess weight, which could cause the bark to tear from the final cut. The next cut is the most important because if you don't do it right you can kill the tree. Leave a small piece of the branch attached to the trunk rather than make the cut flush to the trunk. Look for the branch "collar," a bulge on the branch extending from the main trunk, and make the cut just above the collar. In time the collar will grow a callus and heal. If you cut off the branch collar, the wound won't heal properly, and that can be disastrous for a tree.

The most tedious of all cuts is the heading cut, made to shorten the tree, to head it back and in the process stimulate new growth. There are two types of heading cuts: selective and nonselective. In a nonselective cut, ordinarily used to shear formal hedges, branches are cut back partway, which results in rapid, bushy growth just below the cut. This cut is not recommended for trees because it often results in a "lollipop" look. Selective cuts reduce the overall size of a tree without changing its natural shape. Make these cuts directly above a bud or side branch that faces in the direction you want new stems to grow. Cut off buds that face back into the tree and instead allow for outward-facing growth.

Pruning Tips

• Never remove more than one-third of the wood each time you prune.
• Prune from the bottom up.
• Prune from the inside out.
• Make thinning cuts first, heading cuts last.