Tree Surgery

Gardening by the Yard : Episode GBY-615 -- More Projects »
Are your trees outgrowing your yard? Accompany Paul James, host of HGTV's Gardening by the Yard, as he tackles branches and boughs in his yard and offers tips to help you keep yours under control:
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Figure A

  • The hackberry trees surrounding the fire pit on the lawn look great, but there's too much weight on the branches that reach out over the yard. James doesn't want to lose the branches during high winds but he's fond of the way they look, so he doesn't want to cut them back. Instead, he removes some of the weight by pruning in a few key spots. He makes cuts on each limb back to the main branch--being careful not to cut flush to the branch. Instead, he leaves a half-inch collar on the branch, which will allow the cut portion to callous properly (figure A).
  • Another overhanging branch is connected to a giant red oak, and it too needs attention. James lives in a tornado area, so he wants to lighten the load on this tree. In this case, he removes dead wood to eliminate some weight and prevent pest and disease problems.
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    Figure B
    • A red cedar on the property is growing in a depression. The previous owner planted it there when raising the grade around the tree. Even though the look appeals to some people, James suggests that you never plant a tree like this. Unless the soil drains well, excess moisture can cause the roots of the tree to rot. Fortunately, the soil here drains well; however, the tree is loaded with dead wood, which James removes with a pole pruner (figure B).
  • One of James' dogwood trees looks good at first glance, but further inspection reveals that it's lopsided. Half of the tree is in full shade, while the other half gets sun; this arrangement has resulted in a pretty funny-looking tree because the sunny side is growing much faster than the shady side. James decides to cut the tree down; he believes that the tree would never develop properly if it were moved. When planting a tree, especially an understory tree, try to site it so that all parts of the tree receive equal amounts of light--whether they're in full sun, full shade or something in between.
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    Figure C
  • The last tree that James works on is a crape myrtle that's been neglected for years. He doesn't like the way many people prune crape myrtles--especially if the trees are topped off every winter. Today he finds one that is too crowded with branches (figure C), many of which should be removed to open the tree up and improve its looks and health. If you encounter the same problem, stand back and observe the tree from every angle before you begin to cut. Once you have a good idea which branches should be removed, start cutting them all the way back to the base of the tree. Getting inside a dense tree isn't easy and may require a combination of tools, including pruners, loppers and saws.
  • It's okay to prune the hackberry, red oak and others mentioned here at any time during the year as long as the cuts are made properly. For other species, however, take special note of the needs of particular trees. Yellowwood, for example, bleeds heavily in the winter and spring, so it should be pruned only in summer. And in areas of the country where borers are prevalent, prune dogwoods only in late fall to late winter.