Lattice Arbor

Northern California homeowners Ed and Maureen Hartnett have a fabulous view of the San Francisco Bay area from their 400-square-foot redwood deck, but they think the deck needs just a little something more--like a lovely corner arbor adorned with vines and flowers. Not only would an arbor provide a shaded place to sit and relax on a sunny afternoon, it would also give the Hartnetts a bit of privacy on their deck, which is entirely open on the side that faces their neighbors' property.

To fulfill the Hartnetts' wish, contractor Mike Armstrong sets to work creating a custom redwood lattice arbor that features close-fitting overhead beams--interspersed with copper tubing for an elegant accent--to provide the desired shade. Armstrong points out that the arbor will better define the deck and create an interesting visual element as well.

He estimates that the project would cost about $3,000 if done by professionals, and says that a do-it-yourselfer with a basic working knowledge of carpentry could complete the project in about three weekends, spending around $500 for materials. Armstrong gives the project a difficulty rating of "4" on a scale of 1 to 5 (with 5 being the most difficult) due to the precise measurements and many fine details required.

The next step is to secure the posts in place. To get a tight fit, Mark uses a circular saw to cut notches--first in the deck (figure C), then along the bottom edges of the posts themselves (figure D)--that equal about half the thickness of the boards. This makes sure that the edges of the posts will be flush with the edges of the deck when they are fitted in place.

Step Two: The Frame and Canopy

To build the triangular frame for the arbor, 2"x6" boards are notched at the corners and sandwiched on both sides of the posts near the top, leaving one inch above the frame for decoration. (The frame's triangular shape is dictated by the arbor's corner location.) To get precise cuts for the notches and ensure a tight fit, the boards for the frame are first nailed in place, then marked (on the outside) (figure F) and finally, notched (figure G). Once the beams are plumb and square, they're ready to be bolted down. First, a 1/2" bit is used to drill holes for the bolts, which are inserted on the inside of the frame to hide them from view.

With the posts and frame secure, it's time to add the canopy. Pyne uses 2"x2"s cut with a six-inch overhang, which are alternated with cut lengths of 3/4" copper tubing. He explains that the tubing is somewhat heavier than the type normally used in household plumbing; not only will it prove to be durable and add a distinctive look to the arbor, it will also develop an attractive patina after it has aged awhile.

To complete the canopy, Pyne notches out the 2"x2"s with the circular saw and a chisel (figure J), then fits them into place.

After laying out the canopy-- with all 2"x2"s and copper pipes in place--Pyne uses a piece of string to create a level line (figure K) that allows the lengths of pipe to be checked for alignment along the front (figure L).

Then, he nails the boards in place--from the top, so the nails won't show--using a nail gun (figure M), which can be rented for about $40 per day. (Pyne stresses the importance of obtaining proper training before attempting to use this tool, since it can be extremely dangerous.)

Finally, he caps the front of the canopy with a piece of trim to give it a finished look (figure N).

Step Three: Custom Lattice Panels

While his partner has been busy with the frame and canopy, Armstrong has been making steady progress on the lattice panels for the walls of the arbor. He explains that building custom panels is quite different from using generic, ready-made lattice panels--not only does it give the arbor a custom appearance, it also allows for wider spacing to create a more open feel in the arbor.

He marks each notch using a small length of a 2"x2", drawing the lines on the outside of the piece (figure P). For the open feel desired here, Armstrong spaces the boards about four inches apart.

Once all 2"x2"s have been marked, Armstrong cuts out each individual notch (he notes that this sometimes requires several passes with the saw) (figure Q).

Next, he presses the crosswise 2"x2"s in place, using a hammer buffered by a piece of scrap wood to get a tight fit (figure R).

Then, it's time to put the panels in place. During this step, Armstrong points out the four-inch space between the bottom of the panels and the surface of the deck (figure S), which has been allowed so that the deck can be easily swept off.

To make the arbor seem more like a real room, Armstrong cuts out an octagon-shaped window in the panel facing the view, and frames it with 2"x4"s (figure T).

Step Four: The Perfect Plants

To complete this already lovely arbor, landscape designer Angela Dawne anchors metal-framed moss baskets to the front posts of the arbor, which she complements with several lovely container gardens below. (Angela points out that moss baskets should be watered frequently, since they tend to dry out quickly.) On the posterior posts, she add several delicate vines, which will eventually grow up and fill in the top of the arbor, providing even more shade. These final touches provide the perfect enhancement for this stunning custom arbor, which is now ready to be enjoyed by its delighted owners.