A Garden Portal

When selecting a location for garden portals, though, place them logically to evoke a quality of purpose relative to their surroundings. The sense of a larger size can also be enhanced by adding a meandering path that draws the eye toward the gate.

This portal project features the construction and attachment of a decorative, non-functioning gate to an existing wooden privacy fence. The gate itself is made of rustic wood, fitted with antique-style hardware and topped with an arched shape. Additional accents include an arbor to frame the gate and a lattice to grace the top of the fence.

The carpentry skills for this project were supplied by Andy Simms of Simms Custom Construction in Sonoma, California. For a similar professional to complete the project, a homeowner should expect to pay about $2,000, not including plants. You can do it yourself for around $450 over about two weekends. With basic carpentry skills, the difficulty rates a 3 on a scale of 1 to 5, with 5 being the most difficult.

Setting the Posts

Begin by marking the location of the two arbor posts on the ground. The post holes should be 20 inches deep, about two feet from the fence and about four feet apart. The arbor posts are redwood 6x6s and need to stand at least as tall as the existing fence posts once they are placed in the holes. (Driscoll prefers redwood throughout this project, but any kind of pressure-treated lumber may be substituted.) With the posts in their holes, make sure they are plumb and square with the fence, then temporarily brace them to the fence or to another stable structure with scrap lumber. Fill the holes with concrete to within about four inches of ground level, and wait 24 hours for the concrete to harden.

The first task involves installing front and side steps for the base of the gate. Cut from a 6x6 beam, the front step must fit snugly between the two arbor posts (figure B). Once in position, toenail the step into the arbor posts (figure C). The two side steps are also cut from a 6x6 beam, and they span the spaces between each arbor post and the bottom of the fence. Toenail the side steps in the same manner as the front step. The box formed by the steps and fence will be backfilled later.

Use 2x2s for the vertical lattice members, placing them on 12-inch centers and cutting them to fit between the lattice cap and the top of the fence.

Measure the distances defined by the chalk lines and cut two 2x2s to serve as horizontal lattice members (figure E). Center the horizontal members along the chalk line and fasten them in the same manner as the lattice caps.

Completing the Arbor

Keeping in mind that these pieces will be installed with their notches facing downward, drill two vertical 1/2-inch holes through the entire thickness of each cap and each end of the lintel. The holes in the lintel must line up with the holes in each cap. The lintel holes must also line up directly above the arbor posts, so be sure the caps and lintel have been centered over the arbor posts and marked accordingly before drilling.

Constructing the Gate

The gate for this project is made of rustic-looking used wood, often found in recycling yards. After being cut into 62-inch lengths, a combination of 1x6s and 1x8s are oriented vertically and placed side-by-side to form the basic gate pattern. The gate has an overall width of 32 inches, the distance between the simulated gateposts. The gate width may be modified to suit different gatepost dimensions.

Making the six-inch-wide arch for the top of the gate is a bit trickier. Unless you can find a one-inch board that's at least 16" x 32", you will need to use two smaller planks to piece the arch together. To allow for a margin of error, the smaller planks should measure at least 10" x 28".

The gate can be attached to the fence with deck screws, but be sure that all connections are strong and secure. The rustic feel can be enhanced with hardware such as hand-wrought iron handles, hobnails and hinge plates. Salvage yards and certain hardware stores can be good sources. Handles and hinge plates can be screwed directly to the gate, and hobnails make an interesting accent hammered into the arch and kick plate. As a final touch, backfill the space between the gate and the 6x6 wooden steps with about 5-1/2" of pea gravel.

Planting the Garden

To help enhance the illusion of a larger space, Nancy Driscoll suggests manipulating the textures of trees and shrubs, from coarse in the closer areas, to fine in the vicinity of the gate. Varying the types of colors can also achieve a feeling of longer distances if you use brighter colors nearby and softer ones farther away. By experimenting with the shape and height of planters and beds, you have a third resource for creating a more spacious effect.

• Japanese maple (Acer palmatum 'Red Dragon'), Zones 6-8, hardy to -10 degrees F). Unlike most Japanese maples, 'Red Dragon' is tolerant of full sun. Fine texture.
• Japanese snowbell (Styrax japonicus 'Pink Chimes'), Zones 8-10, hardy to 10 degrees F. The snowbell produces clusters of bell-shaped flowers that are replaced by delicate berries, giving variety and interest to the garden. Coarse texture.
• Peruvian lily (Alstroemeria sp.), Zones 8-10, hardy to 10 degrees F. This is a dwarf variety that's more compact than others.