Stone Stairs

Gardening by the Yard : Episode GBY-512 -- More Projects »
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Negotiating a steep slope becomes a lot easier with these stone steps.
Gardening by the Yard host Paul James likes stone so much that he continually looks for new places to use more in his landscape. He has a steep slope where he added a dry streambed to control erosion, and he felt something was missing--stone steps. By creating the steps or stairs, negotiating the slope should be a whole lot easier. He takes viewers through the process of building stone steps:
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Figure A
Carry the stones to the site (figure A). James carries 10 to 14 large limestone slabs. Some of the stones weigh up to 150 pounds, so he makes several trips.
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Figure B
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Figure C
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Figure D
To make sure the steps are easy to climb, determine the depth of the tread, which is the surface you step on, and the height of the riser, which is the vertical height between steps. The dimensions need to be consistent, because consistency creates a sense of predictability and helps prevent falls. The depth of tread should measure 10 to 18 inches, and the riser should be between four and eight inches (figure B). If the run (the overall length of the stair steps) is short (figure C), the treads may be narrower and the risers taller. If the run is long (figure D), the treads can be deeper and the risers shorter.
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Figure E
There's an easy formula for determining the ideal tread depth and rise: (rise x 2) + tread depth = 26 inches (figure E). In other words, if you want a five-inch-tall riser, the tread depth should be 16 inches. For his stair steps, James is going to create a free-form look, which means he doesn't have to mess with math. He decides to create a curving series of steps that cross the dry streambed.
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Figure F
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Figure G
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Figure H
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Figure I
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Figure J
Tips:
  • Place stones at the top of the site (figure F), because it's a lot easier to slide them down the slope than it is to haul them up. Have a wheelbarrow or garden cart handy so you've got a place to toss any excavated soil.
  • Start at the bottom and work your way up. It's much easier, especially if the stones overlap one another. At the bottom of the run, dig out a spot for the bottom stone, tossing the soil into the garden cart. Level the excavated area (figure G).
  • Spread a two-inch layer of gravel over the area (figure H), pitching it slightly downward to help shed water.
  • Position the bottom stone over the gravel (figure I), making sure that it's stable and level. Then take a normal step up, mark the spot where your foot lands (figure J) and install the next stone. Continue the process until completed.
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Figure K
James continues the process of digging, laying gravel, placing the stone and leveling until he gets to the top of the stair steps. Then he double-checks each stone for stability, using a metal rod to pack the gravel tightly (figure K). To give the steps a more finished but still natural look, he places a few smaller stones around the steps. The stones James uses are a little rough and look more natural; smooth stones can get slick when wet and create an unnecessary hazard.