A Hammock Habitat

Landscape Smart : Episode LDS-406 -- More Projects »
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Figure A

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Figure B

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Figure C

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Figure D

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Figure E

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Figure F

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Figure G

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Figure H

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Figure I

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Figure J

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Figure K

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Figure L

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Figure M

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Transforming a bare backyard into a relaxing place to read or doze away an afternoon was the goal of homeowners Charlie and Henri Musselwhite. Landscape designer Fred Sims proposed a hammock on two redwood uprights sunk into concrete, accented by colorful plants and an espaliered fruit tree (figure A).

A project such as this creates a good focal point for any yard; plus, you don't need two trees. When placing the hammock, consider whether it should be in a sunny or shady area, and avoid high-traffic areas in the yard. This project costs about $2500 with professional labor and $800 if you do it yourself. These prices exclude plant costs. Landscape designer Fred Sims rates this project a 2 on a scale of 1 (easy) to 5 (hard). He notes that you'll have to move heavy beams, but the design of the structure is fairly straightforward. This project will take a homeowner about one day to complete after the concrete footings have had a chance to set.

Setting the Posts

  1. Pour concrete footings for the upright posts that will support the hammock. Space the footings about 12 feet apart (figure B).
  2. Sink metal brackets into the concrete. Adjust the width of each bracket to 6 inches to accommodate the redwood post.
  3. Check the level of the brackets by spanning them with a length of wood.
  4. Allow the concrete to set for 24 hours before placing the posts in the brackets.
  5. Use 6x6 rough redwood for the main posts. Redwood is durable and weather-resistant ; an alternative to redwood is cedar.
  6. Cut a 20-foot piece of redwood with a circular saw to make two 10-foot posts (figure C).
  7. Place a square of scrap wood into the bracket to elevate the posts off the concrete and prevent rotting (figure D).
  8. With the help of a friend, set the redwood posts on the wooden spacer within the bracket and check to see that it's level.
  9. Drill through the posts and secure them upright in the metal bracket with 8-inch galvanized bolts (figure E).

Finishing the Arbor

  1. Use 4x6 notched redwood beams for the support pieces that will hold up the main crossbeam.
  2. Cut the 4x6 beams with a chop saw into 24" sections.
  3. Cut a 45-degree angle on the ends of the beams for a decorative look (figure F).
  4. Use a circular saw to mark a notch 6 inches wide in each beam to accommodate the horizontal post.
  5. Score the wood in between the marks with the saw (figure G).
  6. Use a hammer to knock out the wood and smooth the notch with a rasp.
  7. Decide how high the support beams should be; Sims placed these 7 feet high on the upright posts.
  8. Predrill holes and sandwich the beams around the upright posts. Bolt into place (figure H). Now you're ready to set up the main crossbeams.
  9. Prepare the main horizontal crossbeams. Use 2x8 rough redwood, and make angled 45-degree cuts to match the support beams.
  10. Set the 2x8 main crossbeam on top of the support beams in front of the post ( figure I). Make sure the overhang is even on both ends of the posts. Place the second horizontal beam on the other side of the post (figure J).
  11. Drill through both crossbeams and the post.
  12. Hammer in 11-inch bolts to secure it all (figure K).
  13. Use a circular saw to chamfer the top of the post for a more finished look.
  14. Now add decorative 2x2 pieces on top of the horizontal beam. These will support the vines that will grow up the arbor.
  15. Lay the 2x2 crosspieces along the top of the arbor. We used several groups of four, with 6 inches between each piece (figure L).
  16. Make sure the decorative pieces overhang the main beams evenly on both sides. Attach these 2x2 pieces with 3-1/2-inch galvanized deck screws.

Plants

The planting plan for this project involves perennials with beautiful blooms, climbing vines and decorative grass that doesn't require mowing. An espaliered fruit tree forms a dramatic centerpiece to the area.

Featured plants:

  • Manuka (Leptospermum scoparium 'Burgundy Queen'), Zones 9-10, hardy to 20 degrees F; this plant has tiny flowers in shades of deep pink.
  • Salvia (Salvia nemorosa 'May Night'), Zones 5-9, hardy to -20 degrees F; a hardy perennial with eye-catching blooms.
  • Wisteria (Wisteria floribunda), Zones 5-9, hardy to -20 degrees F; a classic climber with fragrant flowered clusters.
  • Carex (Carex glauca), Zones 5-9, hardy to -20 degrees F; a tufted, spiky grass for under the hammock that grows just 6 inches tall.

Hoisting the Hammock

Landscape Smart's guest designer Fred Sims chose a handmade cotton hammock with a wooden bar about 11 1/2 feet long. This type of hammock must be taken in during the winter and stored dry to prevent mildew.

  1. Make sure to hang your hammock high enough to avoid sag, but not so high that you can't get in and out.
  2. Drill holes in the upright posts at the appropriate height; Sims put these at about 6 feet high.
  3. Use 10-inch steel eyebolts; slide one through each hole so the eye of the bolt is flush with the post. Secure the eyebolts on the other side of the posts with nuts. Be sure to tighten; these bolts will be holding a lot of weight.
  4. Feed an S-hook (figure M) through each loop on the ends of the hammock and hang the hammock on the eye bolts.

Tips on Espaliered Fruit Trees

Our hammock retreat is accented with an espaliered apple tree, a dramatic living sculpture adorning the fence near the hammock. Espalier expert Brigitta Phy says that almost any tree or shrub may be espaliered, and in addition to the tier effect used here, there are "candelabra" and "Belgian-fence" designs. She adds that espaliered trees require frequent pruning, and are usually used in very small garden spaces.

  • Start with the youngest tree possible in the bare root stage.
  • Cut the tree approximately 18 inches above the graft.
  • One twig becomes the new leader on the tree, the other two extend their arms to either side.
  • Prune the tree two or three times during the summer growing season to keep it small. Winter pruning encourages growth on espaliered trees, summer pruning stops growth. Each tier takes one year of growth to complete.

The Musselwhites love their new hammock haven. The project used several important design principles: a sturdy and durable structure, a simple design and beautiful accent plants that create a welcoming outdoor space. With some imagination and about one day of hard work, you can create this hammock habitat on your own!

Guests
Fred Sims
Landscape Designer
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