Q: I planted my daffodils in late January. The foliage came up, but the flowers never appeared. Why?
A: You planted too late. Spring-flowering bulbs like daffodils, tulips and hyacinths must be planted in early fall. They need time to develop a good root system, which they do during the winter months. And they need to chill for a while in order to bloom properly and on time. In fact, most need anywhere from 10 to 16 weeks of exposure to cool, even cold soil temperatures, which is why folks living in areas where winters are mild may be forced to store their bulbs in the refrigerator as a means of tricking the bulbs.
Q: The leaves of my spring-flowering bulbs look nasty for weeks after the flowers have bloomed, but I've read that it's best to allow the foliage to fade rather than cut it off. Why is that?
A: It's because bulbs need at least eight weeks of leaf growth after they bloom to produce food for the next year's bloom. So if you get in a hurry and cut the foliage back shortly after the flowers fade, you deny the plant the opportunity to produce and store food for the following year. Likewise, if you braid or tie the foliage with a string or rubber band, as many people do, you may actually restrict or even cut off the plant's ability to take up food produced by the leaves.
Q: Why is it a good idea to remove faded flowers from a plant?
A: Pinching spent flowers from a plant, a process known as deadheading, will in many cases encourage even more flowering. That's because shortly after flowering, plants begin to set seed, sending a chemical message that causes it to focus its energy on seed production rather than flower development. This process doesn't work for all flowers or result in more blooms. Plants will be grateful if you deadhead them.
Q: Why are earthworms a gardener's best friend?
A: Earthworms make your soil a better place for plants because they loosen hard soils as they tunnel through them in search of food, therefore allowing air and water to reach plant roots. As they feed on things like leaves and rotting vegetation, earthworms secrete their granular dark castings, which contain all sorts of essential plant nutrients.
Q: I planted a potted azalea. It grew nicely until the first hard freeze. Then it died. Why?
A: You put a plant outdoors that was never intended to go there. Many ornamental plants, including azaleas and certain mums, are raised in greenhouses for the florist trade, not the horticultural trade. They're grown strictly as house plants. It is difficult to tell the difference simply by looking, but you can assume that if the plant you receive is blooming at a time when it wouldn't ordinarily be blooming outdoors, as in the case of your azalea, then it's probably not going to survive outdoors.
Q: What do terms "Danger," "Warning" and "Caution" on the labels of lawn-and-garden chemicals mean?
A: Those terms are known as signal words, and they're required by law to give consumers some indication of the acute toxicity of lawn-and-garden chemicals, usually pesticides. Products that carry the signal word "Danger" are the most toxic. Next in line are those that carry the "Warning" label. Those marked "Caution" are the least toxic, but for safety's sake, use extreme caution when using any chemicals, regardless of the signal word on the label.
Q: Are wood ashes good for the garden?
A: Yes and no. Wood ashes do contain potash, which makes them a fine source of potassium, as well as some calcium, but they also tend to raise soil pH, which can cause all sorts of problems. Feel free to use them, but apply no more than three to five pounds per thousand square feet. Whatever you do, don't use ashes from your charcoal, which often contain more than a few toxins that'll kill your plants.
