Busting Sod

Gardening by the Yard : Episode GBY-306 -- More Projects »
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If you choose to use herbicides on the sod, cover adjacent plants that you want to keep. Spray drift can spell disaster for those plants.
Busting sod is the first step toward creating a new garden spot. Backbreaking work, true, but it's the most important task, because it can mean the difference between the success and failure of your garden. Busting sod means removing the turf grass. Unless all the grass and weeds are removed, they'll inevitably sprout and quickly take over your new garden.

"Those of you who have ever tilled a new garden spot without first removing the sod know exactly what I'm talking about," master gardener Paul James says.

Many gardeners prefer to spray a nonselective herbicide over the area to kill everything green. Make sure you cover any plants you don't want to kill because even a small amount of spray that comes in contact with leaf surfaces will spell disaster for those plants. You'll have to wait two to 10 days for the herbicide to take effect. Also, herbicides won't kill dormant weed seeds, the bulk of which lie just a few inches below the soil surface. For that reason you'll want to remove the sod, whether dead or alive. Either way, you'll still have a few weeds here and there, but they'll be less numerous than if you simply waited for the herbicide to do its thing and then started tilling.

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Figure A
You can buy specially designed sod-busting shovels, or you can rent sod-slicing machines if you've got a lot of ground to cover. A flat shovel works well for the job, but it's a good idea to sharpen it first by making a few strokes along its bevel with a file. You can also use a large, heavy hoe (figure A), which will cut through not only sod but also tree roots. A day or two before you start digging, water the area well to loosen the soil, especially if it's compacted.
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Figure B
Dig down to a depth of two to four inches to make sure you get all the grass roots as well as the top growth. You can start pushing and pulling the shovel horizontally, keeping the blade as level with the ground as possible (figure B). Work in small sections: the combination of soil and sod can be pretty heavy. Use the excavated soil and sod to level uneven spots in your lawn, or use it to start a new compost pile. To do that, simply stack the layers of sod upside down on the bare ground. Then water well, and cover the pile with a tarp--not clear plastic. Soon the grass will die and you'll have the makings of a great compost pile. Or you can use the sod to repair bare spots in your lawn. Prepare the bare spots by loosening the soil somewhat, then cut the sod to fit and plop it down.

You may also prepare a new garden spot by placing several layers of newspaper over the grass and covering it with a thick layer of leaves or mulch to kill the grass. That approach works great, but it takes several months to a year to kill the grass.

After you've stripped your new garden spot clean of sod, get rid of any roots and rocks lying around, tidy up the borders, add a little compost over the area, and work it into the top six inches of soil with a tiller. Level the soil with a rake.

At this point you could go ahead and plant, but disturbing the soil has unearthed many weed seeds that are now ready to germinate. Water the area well and wait a week, at which time those weeds will have sprouted, and you can easily get rid of them with a hoe or your hand. Repeat the procedure one more time, and you'll have eliminated most of the weeds.

Resources
Tiller
Mantis Inc.
Website: mantis.com
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