Seed Propagation Gardening by the Yard : Episode GBY-725 -- More Projects »
Seeds are kind of like the world's smallest supercomputer, says master gardener Paul James. "Not only do they store genetic information for hundreds, maybe even thousands, of preceding generations of plants, they also contain instructions for the next generations of plants."For seed expert Annie Hayes, germination is a magical process. "There's just an endless world of fascination when you grow from seed; it's never-ending," says Hayes. Some of the advantages of growing from seed include the potential to grow plants that are larger in size, have stronger roots, more vigorous and lasting blooms, and maybe more likely live longer. "And did I mention cheaper?" James adds. "Seeds are far less expensive than transplants. And before you know it, you'll be harvesting your own free seeds."
Hayes points out the perfect example of seeds ready for harvesting: This Angelica pachycarpa (figure A) has finished flowering, but gardeners should resist cutting off the stems. Instead, simply rub the seed heads gently to collect the dried seeds for next year's garden (figure B).
When this Aquilegia columbine blossom (figure C) dries up, the seeds will rattle around in the pod. That's the signal to harvest by squeezing the pod gently. "You know the poppy seeds that speckle bagels and breadsticks? They're just waiting to be liberated from these pods," (figure D) says James.
Hayes suggests using a grocery bag to catch the seeds, especially if it's a windy day. A bowl works fine, too. "I know that this plant looks pretty ratty" (figure E), says Hayes. "It's in its mature state, and it's ready to give you its seeds." The biggest mistake gardeners make when harvesting seeds is not allowing the plant time to dry thoroughly. If these Clianthus puniceus seeds were picked now, they'd rot in the pod (figure F). Hayes suggests waiting until the pod is brown in color. The pod will eventually crack open with the seeds almost falling out, and that's the best time for harvesting. Once the seeds are harvested, it's best to store them in paper, not plastic bags. Seeds need to breathe, even if they are in rest mode.
When planting seeds, to give them a jump-start, Hayes suggests using the lightest potting soil you can find. Plant six to ten small seeds in each cell (figure G), or two to three seeds for larger varieties. Fill the cell with soil and tamp it down with your fingers. Hayes notes that the very small seeds don't need to be covered up. Simply tamp them down after planting. That tamping gives the seeds an extra push to grow. Lightly moisten the seeds, and water every day after planting.
"When the seedlings get their first true leaves (figure H), you're ready to transplant," says Hayes. Push on the bottom of the six-pack containers to remove the plants (figure I). Gently pull the plants apart, and don't worry if the roots tear a little bit. Fill a four-inch pot with potting soil and make a hole in the center. Position the plant in the hole, and tamp the soil around the plant. Water the plant thoroughly. "When the plant fills the pot, and just before it blooms, into the ground it goes, unleashing all those pre-programmed instructions," says James.
Some seeds require a process called cold germination to get them growing. To start, you need a plastic bag, sand, seeds, and magic marker. Place the seeds, sand and just enough water to moisten things into a plastic re-sealable bag (figure J). Refrigerate the bag for one to three months. Be sure to write the name of the seeds on the bag. Check on them in about a month, because sometimes seedlings grow roots right in the bag. Columbines, penstemons and campanulas need this method to germinate. Remember that you can also encourage your flowers to give you lots of new seeds by providing the right growing conditions. "So whether you're waiting for a flower to grow, bloom or produce the seed, good things really do come to those who wait," says James.
Guests Annie Hayes
Annie's Annuals
Website: www.anniesannuals.com Also in this Episode
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