Shady Lawns

Gardening by the Yard : Episode GBY-506 -- More Projects »

Yes, it is possible to have a lush green lawn beneath the canopy of trees. Paul James will show you how.

Cool-season grasses grow best in the northern tier of states (shown in gray), and warm-season grasses grow best in the south (orange). In the transitional zone (light green), choose cool-season grasses for higher elevations, warm-season grasses for lower elevations.

James prefers using a blend of three different fescues to get the best possible combination of color and texture.

A common problem for many homeowners is getting a lawn to thrive beneath the shade of mature trees. To help fix the problem, master gardener Paul James suggests over-seeding, or sowing grass seed one or more times a year to fill in the bare spots that may appear. Overseeding in the spring, summer and fall, depending on the type of grass you're sowing, is okay in most parts of the country, he says. Here are tips on how to grow a lawn suited to shady sites:

Cool-season or northern grasses include Kentucky bluegrass (Poa pratensis), fescue (Festuca) and rye. Kentucky bluegrass thrives in full sun, but fescues and rye are more shade-tolerant, though they will grow in full sun, provided they get plenty of water.
Warm-season or southern grasses include Bermuda (Cynodon dactylon), zoysia (Zoysia), buffalo (Buchloe dactyloides), St. Augustine and centipede (Eremochloa ophiuroides) grass. These grasses require a good deal of sun; in the deep South, St. Augustine will tolerate a fair amount of shade.
In the transitional zone between North and South, cool-season grasses tend to grow best at higher elevations, warm-season grasses at lower elevations. In the North, over-seed from late summer to early fall, about six weeks before the first frost. In the South late spring to early summer is the best time. If you straddle those areas, you can over-seed cool-season grasses in both spring and fall and warm-season grasses in summer.
Before buying grasses, ask a professional at a garden center or nursery what grasses are well-suited for shade in your area. Fescues are available in two types: fine-blade or red fescues produce a lush lawn that remains green all year in most areas; tall fescues are a bit more coarse, but they hold up better in areas that get a lot of traffic.
Rye grasses are available in both annual and perennial varieties. The annual varieties work best as green-manure crops in the veggie garden. The perennial varieties are more commonly used as turf grass. Perennial ryes can tolerate more sun than fescues.

Use a plastic rake to clear debris from the lawn, then a metal rake to simultaneously remove debris and create shallow furrows to catch the seed.

Here's how to plant grass seed:

After selecting the seed, prepare the soil. Use a metal rake to remove any debris or thatch. (Rent a power rake or a dethatcher if you have a large lawn or a lot of thatch--they'll make your job a lot easier.)
Spread topsoil or compost on the lawn. A store-bought product that's made from composted cow manure and alfalfa is good. Just toss the stuff onto the lawn to get a light but even layer.

Hand-held spreaders provide an even distribution of seeds and are a good choice if the area to be seeded is too large for broadcasting by hand.

If you've got a very large area to sow, you can buy or rent one of these spreaders.

Now spread the seed. Even coverage is not possible when hand-seeding. If there's a lot of ground to cover, try renting a cyclone spreader, which looks like a regular broadcast spreader with an oversized hopper. Hand-held spreaders are also available. James says it's okay to seed at 1-1/2 times the recommended rate shown on the bag for good coverage.

After seeding, go over the area with the rake to bring the seed into contact with the soil, and spread a thin layer of soil over the seed.

Rolling the lawn will firm the seed in the soil and result in quicker and more complete germination. "A lot of people skip this step, but I think it's really important," says James.

If possible, use a roller to firm the seed in the soil. Rollers are available at rental stores and may help result in quicker and more complete germination. Seed doesn't grow as well in loose soil because it dries out quickly.

After seeding, give the seed a light, gentle soaking. If you overwater, you might drown the seed. Water daily or every couple of days with a light mist, just enough to keep the top inch of soil moist. When the grass is well established, switch to deep soaking.

Don't wait too long to begin mowing. Cut the grass once it exceeds three inches, and fertilize after you've mowed the new lawn a couple of times.

Also in this Episode

Gardening by the Yard : Episode GBY-506
•	Shady Lawns
•	Hostas
•	Tree Tips
•	Weed Eliminators

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