Gardening Q & A: Shrubs for Shade and more

Master gardener Paul James discusses shrubs for shade, vines on trees and much more.

Gardening by the Yard : Episode GBY-1510 -- More Projects »
Q. Paul, I garden in Zone 6. Can you give me some ideas for shrubs that grow in shade?

A. Sure I can, and there are more choices than you might think.

  • Aucuba is an evergreen shrub, native to Japan, that can grow to 15 feet. This (figure A) is the variegated form known as 'Gold Dust'.

    Azaleas (figure B) and their cousins, rhododendrons, are another good choice. Most selections are evergreen, and their spring flowers are gorgeous.

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    Figure A
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    Figure B
    Fothergilla (figure C) is an awesome deciduous shrub for shade, and it's native to the U.S. The dwarf form grows to about three feet, and the larger form can top out at nine feet.

    Hydrangeas (figure D) are among the most popular of all deciduous shrubs for shade, and with good reason: They're beautiful.

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    Figure C
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    Figure D
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    Figure E
    Pieris (figure E) isn't quite as well known, but it's a superb choice. And it's evergreen.

    Vibernums (figure F), nearly all of which are deciduous, are excellent for shady spots, which explains in part why I have more than 20 varieties.

    And finally, there are the yews (figure G), which come in a variety of shapes, sizes and species. All are narrow-leaved evergreens, and all are relatively pest- and disease-free.

    There are many other choices, but these seven are among the easiest to find and grow. Plant away!

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    Figure F
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    Figure G
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    Figure H
    Q. I'm thinking of planning a chokeberry. What do you think of this shrub?

    A. I'm all for it!

    Chokeberry (figure H), a member of the genus Aronia, is a great native deciduous shrub that's hardy to USDA Zone 4 and virtually pest- and disease-free. It produces red or black berries, depending on the variety.

    What's strange is that birds don't ordinarily eat the berries until they've shriveled up like raisins. But that's a good thing, because the berries don't shrivel until late winter when food supplies are scarce.

    Q. Vines on trees: good or bad?

    A. For the most part, vines can be allowed to grow on trees without posing a risk to the tree, and the look can be quite beautiful.

    Some attractive vines include Virginia creeper, climbing hydrangea and English ivy.

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    Figure I
    Ideally, you should plant vines at the base of old trees, because some vines can actually kill young trees. And by the way, check out this crape myrtle trunk (figure I) I cut a few years ago. A grapevine grew up the trunk and created this really cool twisted pattern in the wood. It's now my favorite hiking staff.

    Q. I live in Kansas City, where I can't grow crape myrtles, yet my sister can grow them on Long Island. What's the deal?

    A. Long Island, despite the fact that it's way north of Kansas City, has a climate that's more hospitable to growing crape myrtles, largely because of the buffering effects of the ocean. In fact, Kansas City is in USDA Zone 5, whereas Long Island is in Zone 7.

    Q. Just how important is the spacing requirement that's listed on the back of seed packets?

    A. It's extremely important, but it depends to a large degree on the quality of your soil.

    For example, let's say the recommended spacing for leaf lettuce is six inches between plants. If your soil is very rich, then you might get a good crop with a spacing of only four inches. But if your soil is average, then you should stick with the six-inch suggestion. And if your soil is so-so at best, you might consider spacing the plants up to eight inches apart.

    Because plants compete for nutrients, a richer soil allows for tighter spacing. These lettuce plants, which I'm growing in a rich mix of compost and shredded leaves, will do fine spaced four inches apart, but at the moment they're only two or three inches apart and that means I have to thin a few of the young plants by gently lifting them up and out of the ground, taking care not to disturb the surrounding plants.

    Q. You seem to have a lot of interesting plants that nurseries in my area don't stock. Where do you get them?

    A. I'm always on the lookout for new and interesting plants, so I garden by mail a lot, ordering plants of all kinds from catalogs or internet sites. Retail nurseries are great for the usual stuff, but if you want the unusual, you'll want to explore mail-order gardening.

    Q. What should I do with doggie doo-doo?

    A. Believe it or not, dog waste is a big problem. Many cities classify it as biohazard, and therefore prohibit its disposal in the trash. Dog waste also poses a health threat, because certain pathogens in it may affect humans. And let's face it, those of us who own dogs have a civic duty to manage our dog's duty.

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    Figure J
    The best way to do that is to build a composter. Take a plastic bucket, drill several holes in the side and cut out the bottom. Then dig a hole to accommodate the bucket, line the bottom with gravel and position the bucket in the hole (figure J).

    Each time you make your rounds, toss the droppings in the bucket and add a handful of bacteria — the same stuff used in human septic tank systems — which you can buy just about anywhere. Add a little water as well, put the lid on the bucket, and within 48 hours the system will begin to break down the waste.

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