A Ledge Stone Fountain Landscape Smart : Episode LDS-606 -- More Projects »
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The fountain--shown here as an illustration--will be an attractive complement to the homeowners' terraced landscape.
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The water feature will take up part of this existing landscape bed.
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Sharon and Greg Rueb want to add a water feature to their partially landscaped backyard. The yard has a terraced garden, but no real focal point. Landscape architect Greg Arthur designs a ledge stone fountain that will cost the Ruebs about $1,800 if they do it themselves, and somewhere around $6,000 if they hire a professional to do all the work for them. Arthur is using large stone slabs to create ledges for the water to spill over as it flows from the top of the feature. A water-splitter will create the illusion of multiple water sources; in fact, Arthur is aiming at what he calls a "leaky hillside" effect. A single source of water can often look too harsh and unnatural, he says. Instead, the splashing and gurgling effects coming from several little rivulets of water look and sound more natural. If you want to install the same water feature in your yard, set aside three weekends and recruit some help--this project rates a "5" on the difficulty scale. The scale ranges from 1 to 5, with 5 being the hardest. The fountain will be visible from the deck at the back of the house and will be fun for the Ruebs' 2-year-old daughter, Lauren, as well. The goal is to allow Lauren the freedom to play while her parents supervise from the deck. The water will also help mask the noise of the nearby freeway. Step One: Building the Understructure
Begin by determining the location and size of the water feature. Arthur uses flags to lay out a 10 x 10-foot area and marks the site with landscaper's paint. Clean the site: get rid of existing plants and landscaping materials. After the site is cleared, dig a 12-inch-deep basin, and then add a ledge with a 28-inch drop (figure A). The larger drop will help accentuate splashing sounds as the water comes off one ledge onto the other into the basin. Once you've finished the basin, it's time to move on to the understructure.
Arthur recommends pressure-treated, wooden timber ties to construct the frame, or crib, for the fountain. The ties, which cost about $30 each, can take the weight of flowing water and heavy stones. Lay out the ties like building blocks: slope them downward from the back to the front, creating steps as you go (figure B). Once you have a clear idea of where the ties should go, take the crib apart and add 3/4-inch road base to the basin. Spread it 4 to 6 inches deep (figure C)--the road base will help curb the effects of expansion and contraction of the clay soil caused by changing temperatures.
Reset the ties on top of the road base in a step-like formation, keeping in mind that the way you position them will determine how your slabs will sit. Use a chainsaw to cut the ties to outline a central path for the water to follow. Paint the ends of the ties with wood preservative that seals the lumber at the cut. Drill through the lumber and hammer 2- to 3-foot 1/2-inch rebar through the ties and into the ground (figure D). Fill in any cracks around the understructure with pea gravel. Step Two: Setting in the Liner
Arthur recommends using a 20-mil waterproof liner sandwiched between layers of landscaper's fabric. The landscaper's fabric will help prevent puncture of the liner. Before you lay the fabric and liner, tamp your road base with a hand tamper, and then add a 1-inch layer of coarse aggregate screenings (figure E) (a very fine rock blend that you can buy cheaply from a rock quarry) and tamp that as well. Now add the first layer of landscaper's fabric, making sure to follow the curves of the basin and other areas where water will flow. Tuck the fabric into shape, leaving plenty of fabric to hang over so you can easily tack it along the edges. Secure it with hammer and nails onto the ties, then set your pond liner over the landscaper's fabric. Use the same method to install the liner as you did with the landscaper's fabric and add the final layer of fabric on top. Step Three: Completing the Fountain Arthur chooses Bouquet Canyon stone to use as ledges for the water to spill over. He chooses to use the stone whole--rather than breaking it up into smaller, more manageable pieces--because of the exceptionally beautiful cut and texture of these stone pieces. Normally, he says, they would cut the stone before using it. Expect to pay about $200 each for stones of this large size. Depending on the size of the stones, you may need to get several friends to help you haul them into place.
Set large stones to create the steps, placing the most attractive side face-up, and take the time to adjust them for maximum visual interest (figure F). Set those large slabs over the basin too, so the water will seem to disappear beneath them. Wedge smaller pieces beneath the large ones to fill in the gaps (figure G). Pour more pea gravel into crevices--this will help trap sediment and keep the water clean. Once the stone work is complete, you're ready to add the pump and tubing.
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Figure H
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Figure I
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The Ruebs are pleased with the new fountain. "The feature turned out just the way we had hoped," says Greg.
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Connect several pieces of 1-1/4-inch-thick clear plastic tubing to a plastic, flexible manifold and bury the tubing beneath the stones at different points (figure H) at the top of the fountain. The manifold will split the water into separate rivulets and will help give a "leaky hillside" look to the fountain. Connect the manifold end of the tubing to a large, submersible pump--Arthur uses one that pumps 4,000 gallons per hour (figure I). Hide the pump in the basin, fill the fountain with water and give it a test run. You may have to make some modifications in tube placement until you get the look you want. Planting Plan The tiered landscape in the Ruebs' backyard is full of strong colors, so around the new water feature, Arthur wants to use plants that won't compete. He chooses soft, tufted, clumping grassy plants that can be nestled among the rocks. The look of these low-growing grasses and clump-forming shrubs will be "natural but not overwhelming:"
- Santa Barbara daisy (Erigeon karvinskianus), Zones 5-7
- Lime thyme (Thymus citriodorus) 'Lime', Zones 6-9
- Sheep's fescue (Festuca amethystine) 'Superba', Zones 4-8
Guests Greg Arthur
Landscape Architect
AAM Design, Inc.
3730 Mt. Diablo Blvd. #310
Lafayette, CA 94549
Phone: 925-283-8886
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