A Portable Pond Landscape Smart : Episode LDS-301 -- More Projects »
To add a sense of tranquility and a visual focal point to her already attractive backyard, San Francisco homeowner Janette Gitler decided to add a small pond to her property, which is adjacent to a wild bird refuge. To implement the project, Gitler enlisted the help of landscape architect Jamie McMurray, who designed an easy-to-disassemble, "portable" pond at Gitler's request. McMurray explains that this project will generally cost about $3,000 if professionally installed, but can be completed by the average do-it-yourselfer for a cost of about $650 and will require about a day's worth of work. On a difficulty scale of 1 to 5 (with 5 being the hardest), McMurray rates this project a "2." To achieve optimum results when building a movable water feature like the one featured here, he suggests following the steps outlined below.
Step One: Building the Walls Begin by clearing the site for the pond, making sure to remove any sharp or rough objects. Use a hard rake to get the ground completely smooth. Then, add a layer of sand to the area where the pond will be located, and smooth it evenly to create a level surface (figure A).
Build the walls of the pond with 4"x6" pressure-treated landscape timbers cut to the desired size. Here, the pond's dimensions measure about seven feet long and five feet wide. The timbers should be laid with the wide side down, then checked to make sure they're level (figure B). (Even if the frame is only slightly uneven, the flaw will be emphasized by the water's level surface once the pond is filled.) Next, drill through the corners of the timbers with a 1/2" drill bit to create holes for the bolts that will be added later (figure C).
Add two more layers of pressure-treated timbers to the frame to create a three-layer thickness for the walls. After the corners of these timbers have been drilled, bolt all layers together at the corners (and to one another) to form a solid yet detachable frame (figure D). With the framing in place, it's time to prepare the inside of the pond. First, rake it smooth, then lay down a bed of sand to create a soft "resting place" for the liner. McMurray advises choosing a durable liner of strong butyl rubber (about 45 millimeters thick), which will stand up to both hot sun and cold frost.
Lay the liner carefully inside the frame, using bricks or heavy rocks to secure the edges along the top of the walls. Fold any excess neatly into the corners (figure E). Then, fill the pond with about six inches of water to determine if the liner needs any adjustments; allow more slack or pull back any excess as needed. Once the liner is correctly positioned, remove the bricks or rocks and use 2"x16 " lengths of redwood to create the bench surround on top of the walls (figure F). McMurray advises treating the boards with sealer ahead of time; once the sealer has dried, cut the boards to the appropriate length and miter the ends so they will form neat corners when nailed in place. Use galvanized three-and-a-half-inch nails--three at each corner--to secure the boards, allowing several inches of overhang on the front and back of the walls.
Step Two: Installing the Pump McMurray advises selecting a pump based on the pond's size. For this 5'x7' pond, he chooses a pump that circulates 300 gallons of water per hour (figure G), but points out that for relatively small ponds like this one, any 150-300 gallon model will generally be suitable.
McMurray also suggests purchasing a pump that features an extension arm (figure H), which will allow the water to be propelled outward above the water's surface. To install the electrical system for the pump, he recommends hiring an electrician who can wire a system with a contact circuit breaker, which is able to shut off automatically to prevent electric shock. Once the wiring for the pump has been installed, attach the pump's extension arm (these are generally secured by screws), then elevate the pump on a few bricks or level rocks to prevent it from drawing in sediment from the bottom of the pond and becoming clogged (figure I). Make sure the head of the extension arm is elevated above the water's surface to ensure a clean, even spray.
Step Three: Planting the Pond Since Gitler's existing garden features a number of great visual elements, one of McMurray's goals is to enhance the setting with plants that feature complementary colors and textures. He also wants to soften the rectangular edges of the pond with plants that extend slightly over the bench surround. (McMurray points out that a simple, unadorned effect can be achieved by omitting plants altogether for a modest reflective pond.) In selecting the plant varieties for this project, aquatic plant expert Scott Wilson chooses among four specific categories: - Upright types, such as weeds and grasses.
- Oxygenators/underwater plants (like those found in aquariums).
- Floating plants such as water hyacinths and water lettuce.
- Submerged plants (varieties that are placed mostly underwater but feature leaves and flowers on the surface).
Featured Varieties - Corkscrew willow (Salix babylonica), Zones 6-9
- Waterlily (Nymphaea mexicana), Zones 10-11 (this plant should be brought indoors when cold weather arrives).
Wilson advises choosing several plants of the same variety from each of the four categories and arranging them in the pond still planted in their nursery containers. He recommends planting upright varieties along the edges of the pond and placing floating varieties in the center. Finally, Wilson explains that miniature "waterscapes" can be created with a few dwarf varieties grouped together in pots and held in place with gravel and medium-sized rocks. These small-scale features can be used to accent the bench surround or taken inside to provide a unique alternative to traditional houseplants.
Guests Jamie McMurray
Landscaper/Owner
Simply Green Landscape Design and Installation
Phone: 310-403-1925
Fax: 310-388-1019
E-mail: smplygrn@aol.com
Website: www.simplygreeninc.org
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