Homeowners Carolyn and Tom Glynn would like a shadesail to replace their oak arbor. The arbor obstructs their view of the planting bed in the back yard, for one thing, but that's not all. The oak arbor is too dark and lacks personality. The Glynns want something more contemporary that will allow lots of light and give a more modern look to the backyard.
Landscape Smart host Ken Bastida introduces Dan Berger, a landscape designer, to help the couple achieve the look they desire. He says a professional would charge about $4000 for this type of project, but a do-it-yourself homeowner can expect to spend about $1700. With a little help from a friend, you can complete the structure in about two weekends. Berger rates this project a 3 on the difficulty scale, with 5 being the most difficult.
The design will be a tension fabric structure. Don Crenshaw is a shadesail expert and he discusses the advantages of choosing this design. Crenshaw says that the knitted cloth of the shadesail is made from high-density polyethylene, a fabric that can be found in your local home and garden center. He says you can make the sail yourself or have someone make it for you, since each one will be different based on the size of each individual's yard.
The fabric is durable: it holds up well in wind, resists UV breakdown and does well in windy conditions. Crenshaw doesn't recommend leaving the shadesail out in snowy conditions, so take it down and store it indoors if you experience rough winters.
Using this material will allow Berger to soar the sail over the patio area and anchor it wherever he chooses--he's going to position it up high and vary the tie -down points. He wants to eliminate the heavy wood posts that formerly blocked the view: the new structure appears light and airy, and the size and design won't overwhelm the yard.
Installing the Shadesail
Before the sail can be installed, the existing structure must be taken down. Then the crew sets two metal posts, one close to the house and the other out in the yard. They paint the posts to blend with the yard. The soaring end of the shadesail is attached with stainless steel hardware.
The first step is attaching the lagbolt plate (figure A) to a stud in the house--begin by marking the height where you want to attach the plate. Berger places the marks 7 feet off the ground for the two lowest corners of the shadesail. Be sure to set the plate so that the point extends beyond the wall, and then mark the location of the bolt holes (figure B). (These marks should be positioned on a stud in the wall.) Drill into the wall stud on the marks, filling the holes with silicone-based sealer to waterproof them. Anchor the plates with lagbolts, making sure they're tight (figure C).
It's time to set the posts. You will use two 4-inch-diameter steel pipes to hold up the ends of the shadesail. Berger sets them at different heights--one at 10 feet and the other at 12 feet. This will help form a curve at the top. Now you're ready to dig the footing. Follow the rule Berger spells out: dig the footing 1/3 the height of the thing you'll be placing in it. Start by determining where the posts will go--Berger places the first one 48 feet from the house and sets it in a planting bed to avoid plopping it in the middle of the lawn. Be sure to check local building code requirements before beginning to dig. Berger recommends renting a two-man auger (figure D) to dig the holes since they're so deep--it costs about $100 a day. Finish the holes with a post-hole digger: the second hole will be dug in the corner, between the patio and the house.
Before setting the posts upright, drill a hole into each, about four inches from the top. Feed a 3/8-inch eyebolt through each hole (figure E) and secure it in place. Cut off the excess length of each bolt with a saw. Cut your posts to length, remembering to leave five feet on each end to account for the portion that will be buried underground.
Berger suggests that you drive a 10-foot length of 1/2-inch piece of rebar into each hole, then slide the pole over the rebar stake (figure F). You will need to get a friend to help you move the pole--they're really heavy. Once the pole is in place, pour ready-mix concrete around it and use a level to make sure it's plumb.
Some local building codes require that you extend the concrete above ground: slip a six-foot concrete form over the metal post and fill it up with concrete. Smooth the surface with a trowel. Be sure to slope the concrete away so that rain water will run away from the pole (figure G). Finally, use a small container to fill the post with concrete (figure H), up to three feet above ground level. Let everything dry for at least a week.
You'll have plenty of time to choose plants and create your garden while the poles are setting--Berger chooses plants of varying heights, textures and colors for the area inside the already existing planting bed. He will decorate the sitting area with container plants. He selects:
- Japanese maple (Acer palmatum), 'Bloodgood', Zones 6-8
- Rosa (Rosa), 'Flower Carpet', Zones 5-9
- Mexican bush sage (Salvia leucantha), 'Yellow Wave,' Zones 9-10
Adding shadesail
The next step is measuring--both the sail and the area it will cover. The sail will be suspended by a cable, so you want to measure to the point at which the sail will be suspended, not to the pole. Measure between all anchor points by the house and estimate the length of the cable that stretches from the post in the planter bed, to the fourth corner of the sail. Then measure from that spot to the other three corners as well (figure I).
Fasten the sail to the post closest to the house with a small shackle (figure J). Ask someone to help you pull the fabric taut (figure K) and attach the sail to the two other points on the house.
To determine the proper length for the cable on the suspended fourth corner, use a rope and pulley attached to the post and hoist the sail to its final position ( figure L). Tension each of the other points to make sure the sail is taut then attach the cable at the correct length on the pole (figure M). Finish by connecting the cable to a turn-buckle, which you should also tighten.
The Glynns are thrilled with the shadesail. "I just can't get over the difference," says Carolyn. Tom is happy with the look, as well. "It's great--the lush plants make it even more contemporary-looking."
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