Landscape Lighting Gardening by the Yard : Episode GBY-213 -- More Projects »
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A typical kit contains an assortment of lights--including accent lights and floods--some wire, instructions, a combination power supply and timer.
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One of the simplest ways to liven up your landscape is to lighten it up: add lights
here and there to enhance and extend its beauty beyond normal daylight hours.
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Landscape lighting is a great way to enhance home security, is inexpensive, and is not too difficult to install. If you don't know anything about electricity, don't worry. That's what makes landscape lighting kits so great. They're widely available, and most are low-voltage systems, requiring only 12 volts to power the lights. That's roughly one-tenth of ordinary household current, so you don't have to worry about being zapped. The connections just snap together, which makes installation even easier. In fact, you can even buy solar-powered lights that don't require any wires. Just stick them in the ground and let the sun do the rest. However, just one of these lights can cost as much as an entire low-voltage light kit. First, you'll need to decide what kind of light you want to provide. Accent lights are meant to softly light a patio or sidewalk, while spotlights and floodlights can be used to illuminate a fairly large area. Realize, however, that these lights aren't intended to provide a whole lot of light. After all, most bulbs are either four or seven watts, which isn't all that much, but it's enough to cast a gentle, soothing glow.
The brain of these systems is the power supply (figure A), which is actually a step-down transformer, meaning it takes 110-volt household current and converts it to 12-volt current. The power supply also includes an automatic timer and a manual override switch. The first step in installing one of these systems is to locate the power supply as close as possible to where the lights will be installed, because the first light must be installed within 10 feet of the power supply and because most systems come with only 100 feet of cable. Whatever you do, don't use an extension cord.
The power supply must be plugged directly into a receptacle (figure B). If you're connecting the power supply indoors, your local building codes may allow you to plug it into a regular receptacle. However, you'll likely have to drill through a wall to get the cable outside. If you plug the power supply into an outdoor receptacle, local codes require you to have a special, weather-resistant receptacle.
Once you have located an approved receptacle, attach the low-voltage cable to the terminals on the power supply. Just loosen the two screws, insert the bare ends of the cable and tighten the screws (figure C). Then run the cable where you want it. Although designs vary, assembling the lights is simple. For accent lights like those featured on the show, just slide the middle and bottom tiers over the globe, then snap the top shade onto the rim of the globe.
Next insert the wire leads (figure D) and bulb (figure E) into the socket assembly, thread the wires through the riser (figure F), attach the riser to the globe (figure G), and finally, insert the riser into the ground stake (figure H). All you need to do is stick each one into the ground where you want it. Don't force the stakes into the ground, however, and don't use a hammer. If the ground is hard, dig a small hole first, or soak the area a day before to loosen the soil up a bit.
Once you've got the lights in place, attach each to the cable by placing the connectors on either side of the cable and pressing firmly into place to lock them (figure I). Little prongs in the connectors will pierce the cable to make contact with the lights. If the lights don't come on, first make sure the power supply is plugged in, turned on and on the manual setting. Then double-check all your connections and inspect the cable for any breaks. If the lights come on but appear dim, again inspect all connections. If all is well, remove one of the lights to see if the other lights become brighter. If they do, it's because the system is overloaded, so eliminate one light and the problem should go away. If the lights dim at the end of the cable, it's usually because of a voltage drop; in that case you need to use a heavier gauge cable. The longer the cable, the greater the voltage drop. Most of these kits come with 100 feet of 16-gauge cable, but if you need more than 100 feet, you need to buy 14- or even 12-gauge cable. The lower the number, the thicker the cable. Finally, set the timer, and again, the process varies with the manufacturer, but it's usually quite simple. Just make sure the power supply is on, then set the triggers to turn the lights on and off, and set the dial to the current time of day. You can also buy a photocell for these systems, which turns the lights on at dusk and off at dawn, and nearly all power supplies will accept such devices. However, you should never use a dimmer with these systems, and for safety's sake, don't install the power supply or the lights within 10 feet of a pool, hot tub or fountain.
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