Although a backyard with a steep, brush-covered hillside would intimidate many homeowners, Dr. Nancy Snyderman is enthusiastic about the prospects for her backyard slope, which covers an entire acre. Snyderman explains that she wants to add stone stairs to the incline to make the area functional and accessible for her children. Additionally, Snyderman wants to add a small wooden bridge to the landscape to span an existing gully. Landscape designer Fred Sims is charged with implementing the project, which he estimates would require about three or four weekends for the average homeowner to complete. Sims says that a professional installation of the entire plan would cost roughly $4,000, while the do-it-yourselfer can expect to spend about $1,400 in materials. On a difficulty scale of 1 to 5, with 5 being the most difficult, Sims rates the project a "4", explaining that the labor-intensive chore of hauling heavy rocks up an incline makes this project particularly challenging.
Step One: Laying out the Stairs
Sims gets started by digging out the spaces for the individual stairs after determining the total number of stairs needed. (This number is calculated by first placing a long piece of lumber across the slope's highest point, leveling it, then measuring from the board down to the base of the slope.) Since a six-inch rise is an ideal stair height, Sims uses this measurement as a guideline for creating the spaces for the steps. He levels the top of each stone bed, allowing 16 inches from front to back; this measurement is marked with stakes along one side of the stair path.
To ensure that the stairs have a natural look, Sims uses river-washed stone, which is native to the area. He explains that it's important to use a material with pieces of different shapes and sizes for a natural appearance; obviously, brick wouldn't be a good choice for creating this type of effect. Since the stones used here have a flat top and defined corners--as well as varying shapes and sizes; they offer stability as well as a natural, woodland look.
Since this site features a natural drainage trench that runs down the slope, Sims takes advantage of the ditch by filling it with rocks to create a dry creek bed. Then he constructs a small wooden bridge that spans the gully at a relatively low point on the slope. (The larger bridge will be built over the trench at another point.) Sims further enhances the landscape by building stone retaining walls and pathways that criss-cross over the hillside.
Step Two: Building the Stairs
To get the building process underway, Sims creates a mortar mixture from six parts sand, two parts cement and one part lime. Then the rocks are thoroughly cleaned with a brush and water to help them adhere to the mortar.
Next, the stones are hauled up the hill and laid in the pre-dug spaces to determine which sizes will fit best in each stair bed. (Since this task is the most challenging part of the project, it may be a good idea to hire a professional to handle the labor.) Sims suggests first laying the stones out on the ground below--before they are carried up the slope--so that the various combinations of rocks that will fit together well in the dug-out areas will already be in groups.
Once all rocks have been grouped together and hauled up the hill, water is added to the mortar mix to create a workable consistency (not too soupy). Then, a three-inch-thick layer is laid on each stair bed and a trowel is used to create a slightly choppy surface that will "grip" the rocks and help hold them in place. Finally, the pre-grouped rocks are fitted into the dug-out areas, laid carefully on the layer of mortar. (The spaces in between are packed with dirt to make the steps look as if they've been part of the hillside for years.)
While the stairs are setting in the mortar, Sims moves on to the planting plan. To plant the slope with a woodland look that will complement the natural, rugged appearance of the stone stairs, Sims explains that it's best to choose varieties that grow naturally in the area (along with a few that look as though they might).
Featured plants include:
- Bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis), Zones 3-9
- Japanese tassel fern (Polystichum polyblepharum), Zones 6-8
- Perennial primrose (Primula veris), Zones 3-8
- Columbine (Aquilegia vulgaris), Zones 3-8
To provide the plants with the necessary nutrients and drainage, Sims recommends using an acidic soil mix, which will add organic matter to the soil and also allow adequate aeration. Dig a hole for each plant that measures about twice the size of its container. Then, blend enough of the soil mix with the existing, dug-out soil to equal a 50-50 ratio and use this mixture to refill the holes after each plant is in place.
Step Three: Building the Bridge
The first step in building the bridge is to choose a style that complements the designated setting, and select an area where the bridge will "fit" comfortably into the landscape. Here, the bridge is built over the natural gully that has been filled with rocks to form a dry creek bed. (A smaller wooden bridge was built over the gully earlier at lower point on the slope).
Once the site has been selected, pre-cut the pieces of lumber that will be used for the frame and the deck. Here, pressure-treated fir is selected for the frame and redwood is used for the decking. The frame consists of three 4" x 6" pieces that form the main supports; these are connected by 2" x 6" cross pieces.
Before the frame is laid in place, a footing is dug out, covered with a layer of concrete and topped with several cement blocks. Then the cores of the cement blocks are filled with concrete to hold galvanized metal fasteners, one in the center of each core. After the cement has set, the frame is laid over the footings and secured to the fasteners.
Next, the 2" x 6" lengths of redwood are laid out over the frame to determine the spacing; a three-inch overhang has been allowed on both sides. Duplex-head nails are used as spacers between the boards. (The spaces between the individual planks will allow rain to pass through and prevent it from collecting in puddles on the decking.)
Once all the redwood planks are in place, they are secured to the frame with deck screws.
To create the railing of the bridge, notches are cut in the 4" x 4" posts to allow them to fit securely onto the sides of the deck. Then, the posts are spaced four feet apart and anchored to the decking with 1/2" bolts. Finally, the posts are capped with the redwood rails, which are cut from "clear" lengths of redwood (this means they are entirely smooth and knot-free).
Step Four: A Beautiful Woodland Hillside
The final results of this project are truly striking. The stone steps blend beautifully with the hillside, and the small wooden bridges perfectly offset the natural woodland plantings. Snyderman says that the depth and dimension this project has added to her property makes it not only beautiful but also accessible. Now, her family won't be limited to just the level area of the backyard... they'll be able to enjoy the entire one-acre hillside as well.
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