A Care-Free Deck

Though the project is somewhat difficult (a 4 on a scale of 5), you save approximately $4,500 by doing the job yourself as opposed to having a professional come do it for you.
 
San Francisco Bay residents Paul and Laurie Collanton have decided to add such a deck to the side of their home with the help of landscape designer Dan Berger. They've already replaced an existing window with French doors that will lead to the new deck. Now it's time to get started on the outdoor structure.
 
Tip: Before beginning a project on this scale, check your local building codes. You may need a permit to complete the project.

Step One: Laying the Foundation
 
Start by outlining the 20' x 20' deck area with landscape paint, using a string line for guidance. Next, mark where the support posts will go (figure A). Space them in a six-foot grid inside the deck area.
 
Now it's time to get digging. For the arbor post holes, dig to a depth of 12 inches; the deck supports need only a shallow hole, about six inches deep.
 
Set the post supports by filling the deeper holes with ready-mix concrete, then set in circular concrete forms that stick above the ground at least six inches. Fill the forms with concrete (figure B). Push in a metal post holder (figure C), available at most building supply centers. 

To set the support posts for the deck, Berger recommends using pier blocks (figure D ). Place them in the shallower holes, in a small puddle of concrete. (In cold climates, bury the pier blocks below the frost line.) Allow the concrete to cure for 24 hours, then set in the 4" x 6" redwood posts. Make sure the posts are plumb, then use half-inch carriage bolts to hold them in place.
 
Now it's time to build the subflooring of the deck. Use 4" x 6" pressure-treated beams that will resist rot. First, between the arbor posts, attach metal joist hangers about six inches off the ground (figure E). Set in the beam. Under the beam, add extra support with wooden blocks (figure F); fasten the short supports directly to the pier blocks. To install beams that are not between arbor posts, simply nail them to short posts set right on the pier blocks, about six feet apart (figure G).

Next come the joists--pressure-treated 2x6s. Nail them across the beams about two feet apart on center (figure H).
 
Step Two: Building the Arbor
 
Use a length of 2" x 8" redwood as a ledger to attach the arbor to the house. First attach aluminum flashing to the beam to act as a roadblock for termites between the arbor and the house (figure I). Attach the ledger to the house using deck screws. Since this one board will hold up one side of the arbor, reinforce it by drilling through the board and into the studs of the house with a 3/8" drill bit; secure the board with lag bolts in the pre-drilled holes. Now we're ready for the header boards.

You can add a decorative touch to the header boards by cutting a simple design into the 2" x 8" redwood boards (figure J). Nail metal joist hangers to the ledger board on the house, then place the joists in the brackets and attach the other ends to the post. Sandwich all three arbor posts with joists in this way (figure K).
 
Attach 2" x 6" rafters about 10 inches apart across the header boards to complete the arbor roof.

Planting Plan
 
Because a deck is an elevated surface, you want to use plantings that will "tie it down to the ground," says Dan Berger. For best results, use a combination of woody ornamentals that will grow up beside the deck, as well as containers of color on the deck itself, to bring the landscape in a little closer and soften the edges and corners of the structure.
 
Featured plants:

• Artemisia 'Powis Castle', Zones 7-9. Its lacy texture and silvery tone provide contrast in the garden.
• Abutilon hybridum, Zones 9-10. The papery hanging blossoms of this vigorous plant add a delicate look.
• Butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii), Zones 6-9. This favorite of butterflies can grow eight to 10 feet high.
• Euphorbia wulfenii, Zones 7-10. The distinctive foliage of this plant makes it a good choice as a specimen or background plant.
• Camellia sasanqua, Zones 7-8. For color, try this Japanese native, which comes in a variety of hues.

Step Three: Finishing the Deck
 
The composite decking material Berger recommends is available at most building supply stores and does cost a little more than wood (about $2 a linear foot). But since maintenance will be minimal, it's a better deal in the long run. Made from wood products (sawdust) and resins, the product is strong, splinter-free and is an environmentally sound choice for people who are concerned about depleting natural wood resources.
 
First, put down the starter strip along the edge of the deck and screw it into place. Place the composite board flush with the starter strip and attach it to the joists with deck screws. The decking boards have a tongue-and-groove shape (figure L), so just fit them together like puzzle pieces. Don't force them together tightly; instead leave space for a natural drainage tunnel.
 
To hide unfinished edges, install edging strips. They attach easily with deck screws and should be part of your order when you're buying supplies.