In the backyard of their San Francisco Bay area home, homeowners Janine and Damian Wellesley-Winter want to extend the look of their interior terra cotta-tiled dining area onto a new patio where they can relax and entertain outdoors. To implement the project, the couple enlists the help of landscape designer Cynthia Egger, who explains that the type of terra cotta tile used inside the home will create a clean, finished look for an outdoor patio. Egger also points out that by using containers or an arbor to connect the paved area with the open space beyond, a smooth transition between the patio and the lawn can be achieved. In comparing the cost of a professional installation with the do-it-yourself expense of this project, Egger estimates the cost of a hiring the job out at around $6,000, while a homeowner could purchase materials for about $2,300 and would be able to complete the work in about four weekends. On a difficulty scale of 1 to 5, with 5 being the most difficult, Egger rates this project a "4", and notes that the most challenging aspect is pouring the concrete slabs that form the foundation for the tiles.
Step One: Prepping for the Pour
To begin preparing for the concrete to be poured, the crew builds the patio framing by using lengths of Douglas fir for the 300-square-foot patio. Shadrick recommends framing the rounded corners of the patio with flexible composite board. (This can be found at any building supply store.) Make sure the board is level, then attach it with deck screws.
Next, the crew makes a one-foot-grid of No. 4 re-bar to reinforce the concrete and ties the corners of the grid with tie wire.
Then they put in expansion board (available in building supply stores) between the house and patio to create a buffer between the home's foundation and the edge of the patio. (This will protect the patio from cracking when the concrete expands in warm weather.)
Finally, they place a long 2"x4" in the center of the patio that extends from one end of the area to the other. This board will later be used to level out the concrete after it's poured.
Step Two: Pouring the Concrete
Before the concrete is poured, the crew saturates the site with water, without allowing any standing water to accumulate on the surface. (This allows the concrete to cure at a slower rate and helps prevent it from cracking.)
They fill the prepared area with concrete brought in by a pumper truck and channeled through an easy-to-use hose. (Shadrick recommends using this method instead of moving the concrete bit by bit via wheelbarrow; pumpers can be ordered along with the concrete.)
As the crew fills the area with concrete, they make sure to lift the re-bar slightly to allow the space beneath the grid to be fully filled as well. To make the process easier, the crew pours half of the patio at a time to create two smaller sections.
Next, they pull the long 2"x4" across the concrete in order to create a smooth surface. (However, they don't worry about getting the surface perfectly smooth and even since it will soon be covered by the tile.)
Finally, the crew removes the 2"x4" and smoothes the surface with a bull float (a long-handled tool with a horizontal bar on the end that rents for about $9 per day). The concrete is allowed to cure for 24 hours before the tile is added.
Step Three: Laying the Tile and Adding the Plants
Before laying the tile, the homeowners matched the patio tile to the tile inside the house and made sure it was suitable for outdoor use.
To begin laying the tile, the crew first mixes a thin-set mortar mix (available in building supply stores) with an acrylic additive, until it's reached the consistency of peanut butter. They also use a half-inch ridge on the mortar--which Shadrick explains makes it easier to set the tile in place--and simply press down firmly on the surface to make it level.
To keep the process flowing smoothly, the crew works on only a small area at a time and wears protective plastic kneepads as they proceed.
Next, the crew lays down tiles in a "T" formation in the center of the area, setting the tiles about a half-inch apart. Then they work outward from the "T" to ensure the tile pattern stays aligned.
While the crew is busy laying the tiles, Egger turns her attention to the planting plan. Since the homeowners plan to use the patio for barbecuing and entertaining, she "cools down" the area with a variety of glossy green foliage. She also adds a planting bed that will allow the homeowners to enjoy blooms throughout the year and provide a place for a cutting garden. On one side of the patio, the crew will add a lawn with roses and other blooming shrubs with abundant texture and fragrance.
Featured Plants
- Japanese maple (Acer palmatum 'Butterfly'), Zones 6-8
- Rosa 'Cecile Brunner', Zones 5-9
- Hebe (Hebe 'Patty's Purple'), Zones 8-10
- Scabiosa columbaria, Zones 3-8
Step Four: Cutting the Curves
As the crew finishes laying the tile in place, they allow the end pieces to hang slightly over the patio's edge; however, they don't yet mortar these tiles in place. Then, they mark the line of the patio with a pencil (this mark isn't exactly accurate, just good enough to provide a guideline for a rough cut).
Next the crew makes the rough cuts on the tile along the penciled guideline with an angle-grinder that features a diamond-cut dry blade. (Angles grinders are available in tool rental suppliers for about $25 per day.)
Finally, the crew affixes the edged tiles into place with mortar, and allows them to set firmly.
Step Five: Applying the Sealant and Finishing the Curves
Because this tile is unsealed, the crew uses a mixture of linseed oil and kerosene to prevent the grout from sticking to the tile, and also to protect the tile from stains. While applying this mixture to the tile, the crew wears gloves to protect their hands and works without wearing shoes; this prevents them from creating unsightly marks on the tile.
Then they use a lint-free cloth to apply the sealant over the entire surface. After allowing the tile to dry overnight, the crew finishes cutting the curve along the edges. First they lay a bender board along the curved edges. Next they trace the curve onto the tile with a pencil and use the angle-grinder to cut along the guidelines. (By cutting the tile in place, the crew is able to give the edging a neat, uniform look.)
To complete the edges, the crew attaches a masonry grinding wheel to the grinder and uses it to round out the edges of the tile (this will prevent chipping).
Step Six: Applying the Grout
When selecting grout, Shadrick advises avoiding stark white, since this tends to create a "bathroom look." Instead, choose an off-white shade--like the canvas-colored hue shown here--so the grout will blend with the color of the tile. (Pre-colored grout is available in building supply stores and home improvement centers.)
To apply the grout, the crew uses a rubber float (these sell for about $12 in tile supply stores) to fill the joints between the tiles until it's level with the tiles' surface. After allowing the grout to cure for about five minutes, the crew uses a damp sponge to remove the excess from the surface of the tiles.
To complete the project, the crew allows the grout to set for 24 hours, then adds a second and final coat of sealant to the tile to give it maximum protection from the elements.
With the terra cotta tile patio complete and lush foliage filling out the surrounding area, the homeowners are ready to sit back, relax and enjoy their great new "getaway."
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