Potting Bench

top shelf (1) 48"x25-1/2"x3/4" birch plywood
mid shelf (1) 45"x22-1/2"x3/4" birch plywood
leg pieces (8) 1"x4"x35-1/4" pine (for a 36" high bench)

top face, front/rear (2) 1"x4"x49-1/2" pine
top face, side (2) 1"x4"x25-1/2" pine
mid face, front and rear (2) 1"x4"x46-1/2 " pine
mid face, side (2) 1"x4"x22-1/2" pine

top cleats, front and rear (2) 1"x3"x41-1/2" pine*
top cleats, side (2) 1"x3"x17-1/2" pine*
mid cleats, front and rear (2) 1"x3"x45" pine*
mid cleats, side (2) 1"x3"x21" pine*

birdhouse front and rear (4) 1"x8"x18" pine
birdhouse sides (4) 1"x6"x14-1/2" pine
birdhouse roof (2) 1"x8"x5-1/2" pine
birdhouse roof (2) 1"x8"x6-1/4" pine
fence pickets (8) 1"x3"x12" pine (depending on chosen design)
fence stringers (2) 1"x3"x46" pine
birdhouse perch (2 ) 1/4" dowel rod, 3" long
two 12" lengths of piano hinge (optional)
two decorative cabinet knobs (optional)

waterproof/water resistant wood glue
1-1/4" drywall screws
4d finish nails
drill with a 5/64" bit for pilot holes, a 1/4" bit for dowel pilot and a 1-1/2"
hole saw (check in a home center's door knob installation tool section)
miter box or circular saw to cut the boards to length (or have a home center cut the plywood)
speed square or other 45-degree triangle
double -faced adhesive tape (optional)

*These measurements are based upon the width of the 1x4 stock actually being 3-1/4 inches. For 1x4 lumber that is wider or narrower, these measurements will have to be adjusted accordingly.

Steps :

1. Begin by determining what counter height is comfortable to work on (a good counter height is around 36 inches, so this design is based on that). Once this is decided, subtract 3/4 inch from this measurement for the length of the legs. Cut eight pieces of 1x4 pine to that length. Take two of the pieces and butt them together at a 90-degree angle--this will form one of the legs. Drill pilot holes along the length of one of the leg pieces, spaced eight inches apart, and about 3/8 inch in from the edge. Run a bead of glue on the edge of the second board and after reassembling the legs into a 90-degree angle, nail them together with the 4d finish nails. Repeat for the three other legs.

2. Once all four-leg assemblies have been completed, begin the framework that will hold the plywood top. Cut two 1x4x49-1/2" pieces of pine for the front and rear faces, then measure in 3/4 inch from each end and place a mark. This is where the outside edge of the legs will be attached. Additionally, place a series of marks 3/4 inch down from the top of the 1x4s, which will tell how high to place the top of the legs, as well as the top of the support cleats. After cutting the 1x4x25-1/2" side pieces, mark them in the same fashion. Lay the 1x4s so they are on edge, and position them so the front and back pieces overlap the sides at a 90-degree angle. If done correctly, the outside of the box should measure 49-1/2" x 27". Drill pilot holes and attach the front, back and sides using glue and finish nails. Test fit the front legs (this bench is designed so the seam of the legs faces the sides of the bench) and 1x3 top front cleat to ensure a tight and problem-free fit. Then, with the legs and cleat 3/4 inch down from the top, aligning with the marks made earlier, drill pilot holes and attach using glue and drywall screws. Repeat this for the back legs and cleats, and finally the side cleats. If everything was cut and assembled correctly, you should be able to put the plywood top on a large, flat surface and turn the completed upper framing assembly upside down overtop the plywood. The plywood should just fit inside the completed assembly and can be used to hold the framing square while the glue dries. Don't glue or nail the top into the framework, as you may want to replace it after several years of use.

3. With the framework for the top shelf complete, it's time to work on the framing for the mid-shelf. For this design, measure up 14 inches from the bottom of each leg and placed a mark on the inside of each. The mid-shelf face pieces should each have a series of marks placed 3/4 inch down from the top, like what was done on the upper shelf pieces. Again, stand the front and side pieces on end overlapping the front and back and position so this box measures 46-1/2" x 24". Drill pilot holes and assemble this box with glue and nails as done for the top in Step 2.Then, attach the mid-shelf cleats into place, 3/4 inch down from the top of the mid-shelf box (on those marks made earlier) after drilling pilot holes and using glue and finish nails. Place the mid-shelf plywood on a flat surface and check the fit between it and the just completed mid shelf box. Wait for the glue to dry and then carefully slide this shelf up and in between the legs of the top assembly until the top edge of the shelf reaches the 14-inch marks. Make sure it fits well, then back the box out a bit, apply glue to the legs where the mid-box was and slide it back into place, drill pilot holes and attach with drywall screws.

4. The featured project has a birdhouse topper for the potting bench, with birdhouse cabinets on either side of the top of the bench separated by an interesting picket fence design. The first step for creating the birdhouses is to cut the front and backs to 18-inch length. Find the center on one of the ends of each board, and then draw a 45-degree angle down to each side of the board to form the peak of the roof. Cut this angle out. Now decide if you want to make the front of the birdhouses open up for additional storage or to keep it simple. If the fronts will open, take two of the front and rear boards and carefully cut across them, about one inch below the bottom of the 45-degree angle cuts. SAVE THE PIECES! To assemble the birdhouses, stand the back pieces up and place the sidepieces to the inside edges of each. Drill pilot holes and assemble with glue and finish nails (the side pieces may be about 1/8 inch short but this is okay as it will be covered by the roof sections). If you choose not to have the front of the birdhouse operational, drill pilot holes and assemble the front faces just as you did with the backs. To add a little extra storage space, carefully align the angled front peak piece on the sidepieces, drill pilot holes and attach with glue and finish nails. Choose which way the birdhouse doors will open and attach the lengths of piano hinge accordingly. Next, attach the doors to the hinges, being careful to check for fit . If desired, cut an additional 1/8 inch off each door's length (leaving a 1/8-inch gap at the top and bottom of the installed door) to prevent the door from binding when opened.

Tip: To make aligning the doors easier, screw one side of the piano hinge to the birdhouse framework, and then place double-faced adhesive tape along the door side of the hinge. If you're careful, you can press the door into position and the tape will hold the door in place. Gently open the door and mark the hinge's screw holes to ensure a perfect fit. Drill and attach with the supplied screws.

Next fit the roof sections on each birdhouse with the longer piece overlapping the shorter. Drill pilot holes and attach with glue and finish nails. To make the round birdhouse openings, carefully drill holes using a 1-1/2-inch hole saw, and then drill a 1/4-inch hole centered beneath so inserting the dowel rod will create a perch. Attach the birdhouses to the back of the bench using a bit of scrap wood and drywall screws (remember to drill pilot holes).

Finally, install the fence stringers between the birdhouses attaching them to the backs of the houses with glue and drywall screws. Cut and space the pickets according to your design. Add a 1-1/2-inch hole toward the top of each picket to keep the design consistent throughout.

5. After sanding the bench to smooth out any rough spots and to soften the corners, start by popping the plywood shelves out of their boxes (we never did attach them to the 1x4s). These should get a coat of a good multi-purpose primer on all sides (don't forget the edges). After allowing the primer to dry, apply a few coats of paint to protect them. The rest of the bench can be finished by either priming and painting (but you can expect the knot holes to bleed through the finish after a few years) or by doing a washing technique using an old sock to rub the paint into the wood until the desired depth of color is achieved.