Bulbs, Without Pests

Seasoned Gardener : Episode SGN-102 -- More Projects »
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Chicken wire will keep rabbits away from your bulbs as the new growth emerges.
If some of your bulbs fail to send up shoots or the foliage looks a bit worse for wear, hungry critters may be to blame. Here are some tips to help keep your bulbs from becoming a free meal:

Rabbits. One of the most effective ways to keep rabbits from nibbling at new shoots is to install a temporary wire fence using inexpensive, readily available chicken wire. (You may have seen green, plastic garden fencing at your local garden store. It may look nicer, but rabbits can easily chew through this material.) To keep rabbits out, you'll need a roll of 2-foot-tall chicken wire and several plastic, metal or wooden stakes.

Start by weaving a stake through one end of the chicken wire and pushing the stake into the ground until secure. Place a stake every 8 to 10 feet, working your way around the bulb planting area. Once the wire fence is in place, use tin snips to cut the wire and fasten the overlapping ends together. (Be sure to wear gloves when working with chicken wire.) You may want to adjust some of the stakes to neaten the shape of your fence.

To discourage rabbits from burrowing under the fence, bury the bottom of the fence a couple of inches below soil level or put landscape timber around the base of the fence. This temporary wire fence can be removed once the tender, young shoots are mature--when the blooms are just about to open on most of the plants. At this point the plants will no longer be so tasty to rabbits, and they will look elsewhere for a snack.

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Underground pests can't destroy bulbs protected by a plastic pot.
Moles. Bare spots where bulbs haven't come up can indicate the presence of moles. To prevent these burrowers from getting to your bulbs, you'll need to start your prevention program in the fall. When planting spring-flowering bulbs, dig a hole large enough to hold a 6-inch plastic pot, and place the pot in the hole. (Make sure the pot has a drainage hole.) Plant bulbs at the recommended depth in the pot and fill with soil, making sure the rim is above ground level. Then fill in the hole around the pot with soil. The bulbs can stay in the pot all season but the whole thing should be dug up in the fall and replanted the next spring.

An option that can stay in the ground is a barrier of galvanized mesh. You can bury the mesh to a depth of 24 to 30 inches, leaving six inches above the ground. The moles won't be able to tunnel through this mesh as they search for worms and grubs.

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This deer deterrent has a strong citrus scent, a fragrance that deer don't like.
Deer. Although deer make more noticeable damage by trampling --and sometimes eating--everything in their path and digging your bulbs out of the ground, there are options for keeping them out of the garden. Commercially available deterrents produce a strong, heady, citrus scent that deer don't like. These deterrents are non-toxic to children and pets. Hang the deterrent on a low branch in the garden, or put it in a mesh bag and stake it where deer typically visit.

You might also try hanging fragrant soap bars in the garden. Drill a hole through the bar, slip a length of string through and hang from a branch. Place a bar wherever you think deer will pose a problem; place some bars directly on the ground near the bulbs.

Try as you might, not every deterrent will work to keep deer from munching on your spring flowering bulbs. Be patient and stick with it; try different things throughout the season. If deterrents don't work, plant diffierent bulbs. Although deer enjoy eating tulips, crocuses and hyacinths, they don't like narcissus, alliums and scilla. By next year you should have the problem under control.

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