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Shower Shelf Valance

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A shower valance hides the curtain rod and adds a touch of elegance to your bathroom. (click to enlarge)
After remodeling and enlarging a bathroom to accommodate a large whirlpool-style tub, sometimes the old shower curtain and rod will no longer fit the space in front of the tub. Finishing specialist Don Vandervort has just the fix for this problem: It's a shower curtain valance that is not only a clever way to enclose the shower rod, but it also serves as a functional shelf. This very versatile fix can be used in almost any size bathroom to add an aesthetic focal point as well as a very handy shelf.

Materials

crown molding
base molding
measuring tape
level
hammer
nail set
screws
stud finder
finishing nails
drill with bits
clamps
wood glue
saw
mildew-resistan t paint
paint brush
miter saw and box (or power miter saw)
safety glasses
poplar boards, standard length, in 1" x 10" and 1" x 8" sizes
2x4s

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Figure A (click to enlarge)
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Figure B (click to enlarge)
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Figure C (click to enlarge)
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Figure D (click to enlarge)
  1. Begin by cutting two 11-inch-long pieces from the 1" x 10" board and two 9-inch-long pieces from the 1" x 8" board. Remember to wear safety glasses while sawing. Align smaller board on larger one so the tops and backs are flush and secure together using glue and screws (figure A). These will be mounted onto the wall to form the end supports for your valance, so it's a good idea to paint them before you attach them to the wall.
  2. Keeping flush with the face of the tub, measure up from the floor for the height of your valance and mark that point (figure B). Use a stud sensor to locate wall studs and mark them.
  3. Next measure out from the back wall to find the horizontal location of the valance (figure C).
  4. Level an end support on the wall, drill pilot holes and secure it to studs with 3-inch screws (figure D). Countersink the screws, cover with a bit of spackling compound, and touch up with paint.
  5. After the supports are in place, measure the entire distance between the two walls to determine the length of your top shelf. Cut this shelf from the 1" x 8" board.
  6. Next, measure from the inside of the two support plates to determine the length of the trim and the 2 x 4. Cut these pieces to the shorter length. Be sure to wear safety glasses when sawing.
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Figure E (click to enlarge)
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Figure F (click to enlarge)
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Figure G (click to enlarge)
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Figure H (click to enlarge)
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Figure I (click to enlarge)
  • Apply wood glue to both of the narrower sides of the 2 x 4. Set the base moldings in place on each side and hold with clamps (figure E) while you secure them with finishing nails.
  • Run a bead of glue along the top of the 2 x 4 (figure F) and place the 2 x 4 and molding assembly on bottom of the shelf so that it's flush along the back and centered side-to-side (figure G). Secure with screws.
  • Cut the crown molding to the same length as the 2 x 4. Drill pilot holes and attach it at an angle, using finishing nails, between the shelf and the base molding (figure H). This creates a transition between the base molding and the shelf.
  • Finally, hang the completed assembly on the supports so that the front of the shelf is flush with the front of the larger support piece (figure I). Drill pilot holes through the top of the shelf into the support plates, then secure with finishing nails.
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