By Matt Fox
The process to paint a laminate top is fairly involved, but it does work.
But ask yourself if this is really what you want to do. Once you paint it you can't go back. I'll give you a little time... OK... If you're sure...
First, clean the countertop with a little soap and warm water; this removes any old soap scum and dirt. Rinse it several times. If you are not removing your sink, use an old toothbrush to remove any of the stuff (for lack of a better word, I really don't want to know what all that gunk is) around the edge. Lightly brush around the lip of the sink and then wipe and rinse away the grime.
Now etch the entire surface by sanding it with a 220-grit sandpaper. You don't have to be the Incredible Hulk while doing this; you're not trying to remove the laminate, just roughing it up a bit so that the primer coat will have a surface to adhere to.
After sanding, remove all the dust by using acetone applied with a soft cloth. Just make sure you ventilate the room well when working with this stuff, it has a strong odor. The acetone will remove all the final dust and any dirt that you may have missed.
The next step is to apply an oil-based bonding primer, which is a special primer that will adhere to almost anything, even glass. You can purchase a bonding primer at almost any quality paint store. Apply the primer with a brush and a small roller. Don't worry about brushstrokes or roller marks, those will not show with the final topcoat.
After the primer has dried--and I mean dried--give it at least overnight. You can apply an oil-based topcoat. I like to cut in ("cut in" means to paint around edges with a brush) with a natural bristle brush, then apply the paint with a 7-inch roller cover that has a 1/4-inch nap. Most paint-roller frames are 9 inches in length, but the smaller frame is easier to maneuver around countertops and cabinets. The 1/4-inch nap is perfect for oil-based products, just enough paint is held in the nap and it rolls on a nice, smooth finish.
Now, more than likely, you will have to apply a second coat. Allow the first coat to dry, then lightly sand with 220-grit paper. Remove all the dust with a tack cloth or a damp rag, then apply a second coat. Before using the countertop, allow the paint to cure for about 48 hours, especially if the countertop will be exposed to water.
OK, now for the fun part: creating a faux-marble look.
Use a light, a medium and a dark color in oil-based paint selected from the same paint strip so they're all in the same color family. To start creating the faux marble, I used a pouncing technique with a small natural bristle brush. Apply the lighter color first, filling in a small area, then start blending the medium, then the dark paint. Don't be afraid to overlap the colors--that's the whole point.
Pounce the brush onto the countertop, alternating colors. And don't forget to keep loading your brush. The paint will build a fairly heavy film, but as the colors start to level it will give you the desired marble look. Fill in the entire countertop using this pouncing action, going back over areas that may need a little adjustment. Working with oil will give you a little more time, since it dries more slowly than latex paint.
While the paint is still wet, start adding the veins that give marble its distinguishing feature. Using a small artist's brush, and white paint, push the brush forward, with a very gentle touch; let the brush work for you. Sometimes the vein will be thick and sometimes it will break off and start again. Have fun with this step.
The final step is to let the paint completely dry, at least overnight, then apply several coats of oil-based polyurethane.
(Matt Fox writes this column with Shari Hiller. They also co-host the Home & Garden Television show Room By Room.)
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