Do-It-Yourself Adirondack Chair

Why pay hundreds for an Adirondack chair when you can make your own for around $60?

Woodworking : Episode DIW-209 -- More Projects »
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Johnson created his Adirondack chair from cypress, which offers high resistance to water and sunlight (as do cedar and redwood). Although it's a less expensive option, pine should be avoided. The reason? Pine requires painting and the constant touch-ups add to the overall cost, time and effort needed to maintain the beauty of the finished project.
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Figure A
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Figure B
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Figure C
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Figure D
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Figure E
Adirondack furniture -- like the chair in this project -- has been an enduring rustic style since the early 1900s. This project courtesy of DIY Network.

Materials:

Jig saw
Woodworker's glue
Cardboard template for legs
Drill with combination countersink-pilot bit
Galvanized screws
Tape measure, ruler or yardstick
Dark pen or marker
Wood clamps
Band saw
Construction square or combination square
1 piece of 3/4" x 3 1/2" x 23" wood (front seat support)
2 pieces of 3/4" x 3 1/2" x 21" wood (front legs)
2 pieces of 3/4" x 5 1/2" x 35" wood (back legs)

  1. Begin by notching the two front legs (cut to 10 3/4" long) with jig saw, create notches 3 1/2" wide.

  2. Apply woodworker's glue to cross-piece (seat support) and position within the notches (figure A).

  3. Countersink two pilot holes (figure B) and drive screws (figure C).

  4. Stand front assembly up and use clamps to hold assembly upright.

  5. Use dark pen to trace leg pattern onto wood.

  6. Then, use band saw to begin making relief cuts (figure D) at areas of stress.

  7. Next, use band saw to finish cutting leg. Make shortest cuts first, cutting just outside the line. Cuts should be made slowly and steadily to prevent splintering of wood.

  8. Use woodworker's glue to hold leg into position. Use square to insure alignment. Then, clamp to hold in place as it dries.

  9. Drill holes into the back brace into the legs using a special combination bit (figure E) -- Johnson's uses one that has both pilot and countersinking abilities.

  10. Add back brace across center of legs, using screws to attach.
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Weatherproof woodworker's glue should be used if the finished chair won't be protected under a porch or patio, but will be exposed to the elements.
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Figure A
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Figure B
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Figure C
Back Support and Arms

Once the front assembly is in place and the legs have been secured, it's time to assemble the back support and add the arms.

Materials:

Cardboard template for arms
Band saw
Scrap wood from arms (for bracket)
Tape measure, ruler or yardstick
Construction square or combination square
Pencil or marker
Clamps
Woodworker's glue
Drill and galvanized screws
2 pieces of 3/4" x 5 1/2" x 29" wood (arms)
2 pieces of 3/4" x 2" x 21 1/2" wood (arm supports/brackets)

  1. Use cardboard template for arms. Use dark marker to trace arms onto wood.

  2. Use band saw to make relief cuts. Then, cut arms from wood, making smallest cuts first. Continue cutting along line (figure A) until arm is completely cut. Repeat for other arm.

  3. Save scrap wood from blank used for arms. Measure back from narrow edge 9". Mark and cut square edge at mark to create a bracket. (These brackets will provide additional support for the arms).

  4. Align bracket perpendicular with front edge of base assembly (figure B). Use glue and clamps to hold into place. Repeat for opposite side.

  5. Use a piece of scrap wood, cut to same height as leg to support arm as you work on it. Dry clamp support to secure.

  6. Allow arm to extend 3" from the front edge of the leg. Deeply countersink the screw by first drilling a deep pilot hole. Secure arm with long screw (figure C). Repeat for opposite side.