Leopard Cane License Frame

Materials:

metal license plate frame
2 oz. block raw sienna Premo
three 2 oz. blocks black Premo
two 2 oz. blocks ecru Premo
2 oz. bottle translucent liquid Sculpey
black oil paint
skewer
small glass or metal dish
pasta machine
brayer
tissue blade
craft knife
UV 6800 industrial craft adhesive
metal ruler
paper to make a pattern*
rubber alphabet stamps (approx. 3/8" to 5/8")
cornstarch
fine & extra fine wet/dry sanding sponge
small round 1/2" cookie cutter
polymer clay varnish, Fimo matte varnish (not water-based)
brush
brush cleaner

* Before you begin, you'll need to make a pattern (strips) of your license plate frame. Make one for the long (top and bottom) edges of the frame and one for the short (side) edges. The pattern should be measured to match the inner dimensions of the frame plus 1/8 inch for the width, and miter the corners on the pattern at a 45-degree angle.

1. Condition your raw sienna clay. Roll into a 7/8" x 5" snake. Trim the ends flat.

2. Condition one block of black clay, and roll into a 1/8" x 5" sheet. Bevel one of the 5-inch edges (use tissue blade to trim at a 45-degree angle). Roll most of the way around the raw sienna snake. Bevel the second edge and leave a 3/8-inch gap so the black sheet does not completely wrap the raw sienna snake (figure A).

3. With the remaining part of the black sheet, cut two 3/4" x 5" strips. Bevel both of the 5-inch edges on each strip. Place each strip on opposite sides of the wrapped snake, overlapping the first layer of black about 3/16 inch from where the bottom sheet of black clay stops revealing the raw sienna core (figure B).

4. Condition one and a half blocks of ecru clay. Roll into a sheet on a #3 thickness. Trim to a 5-inch width. Trim one edge so it is straight. Wrap around the snake completely and trim so the straight edges meet. Blend seam together with fingers (figure C).

5. Roll to a 5/8-inch-thick snake. Cut this snake into three pieces that are 3-1/2" x 5/8" (figure D). Set aside one piece. Think of it as the "A" snake for the rest of this project.

6. Roll the second 3-1/2-inch-long snake to a thickness of 1/2 inch. Cut lengthwise into two snakes that are 3-1/2 inches long. Set aside these two "B" snakes.

7. Take the third section of the 5/8-inch-thick snake from step 5 and roll it to a thickness of approximately 3/8 inch. Cut off one snake that is 3-1/2 inches long and set aside. This will be snake "C".

8. Cut a second snake that is 7 inches long. Reduce this snake by rolling gently so that it doubles in length. Cut four snakes that are 3-1/2 inches long (these are the "D" snakes) (figure E).

9. Next you will assemble the cane of A, B, C and D snakes. It may help you to draw a diagram on paper before starting the assembly. Starting with snake A, place one of the two B snakes next to the A snake so they are parallel, and press them together gently. Place the second B snake next to the first and also touching the A snake. Press this snake gently to adhere it to the other two. Place the C snake next to one of the B snakes, so that is touching both the B snake and the A snake. Press this snake in place. Take one of the D snakes and place it next to the C snake, also touching the A snake. Press it in place. Take a second D snake and place it next to the second B snake, touching both the B and the A snake. Press this in place. Take a third D snake and place it lengthwise so it is touching both the second B snake and the C snake. Press it in place. Take the fourth D snake and place it lengthwise so it is touching both of the B snakes. Press in place (figure F). As you add snakes, rotate the snakes so the animal spots are not all oriented in the same direction.

10. Roll small snakes of ecru clay that are 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch thick, and use these to fill any grooves or gaps between the snakes.

11. Press the cane into a square shape (figure G). You can use a brayer to create the flat sides for the square cane. Continue to reduce the cane slowly by gently rolling the sides with a brayer and stretching the clay.

12. Roll a sheet of ecru on a #5 setting. Wrap the entire cane, trim, and blend the seams. Reduce the square cane to a thickness of 1 inch, pressing out gaps between the stacked snakes (figure H).

13. Trim one end of the cane so it has a clean, flat edge to start making thin cane slices (figure I).

14. Gather all of your scraps of clay from sheets, snake ends, and cane ends. Add an extra 1/2 block of black clay, and wad this all together. Mix all colors in the scraps together by folding up and running then through the pasta machine repeatedly until the colors are marbled or somewhat blended. This clay will form the base for your animal print cane slices, so the color is not important.

15. Roll this mixed clay into a sheet that is at least 13 inches long , 4-1/2 inches wide, and 1/8 inch thick (#1 setting on an Atlas). Cut the sheet lengthwise into 13-inch strips that are 1-1/8 inches wide (a metal ruler is recommended for this for straight cuts). Cut two of the strips so they are 9 inches in length.

16. Cut a thin slice of the cane and center it on the first 13-inch strip of mixed clay, starting at one end of the strip. Cut a second thin slice, turn it one quarter turn, and lay it next to the first, with the edges meeting. Gently blend the edges of the two cane slices together. Cut a third thin slice of cane, turn it one quarter turn to make the pattern appear more random, and center it on the strip next to the second slice, gently blending the cane slices together on the edges (figure J). Keep adding slices, turning each one a quarter turn and blending the edges until you reach the end of the strip. Carefully roll the brayer over the entire strip to blend the canes into the backing clay for a smooth surface.

17. Repeat this cane laying and blending process for the other 13-inch strip and the two 9-inch strips.

18. Center the longer of the two paper pattern pieces over one of the longer clay strips. With the aid of a metal ruler and a craft knife, cut out the strip to be placed on the frame. Place the clay strip onto the frame and gently shape to the curve of the metal frame. Next use the shorter pattern piece to cut out the smaller clay strip (figure K) and place it on the frame, making the mitered corners meet. Use your finger to gently blend the seams of the two clay strips (at the mitered corner).

19. Next cut the second long clay strip, place it on the frame, shape it to the curve, and blend the corners. Cut the second short strip, add it to the frame, and blend the corners on both ends. Use your fingers to shape the clay over the frame (figure L).

20. Use the small round cookie cutter to remove excess clay near the screw holes on the metal frame. When the clay is curved and blended, bake the entire metal frame with the clay on it at 275 F degrees for 20 minutes. Allow the clay to cool completely on the metal frame after baking.

21. Determine the phrase you would like to stamp on your frame for personalization. Roll a strip of ecru clay that is 3/4 inch wide and long enough for your stamped phrase plus 1 inch, and 1/8 of an inch thick (#1 on an Atlas). Dust the top of the surface with cornstarch. Stamp the phrase into the ecru clay (at a medium depth, enough for a good impression but not so deep as to distort the clay). Trim the clay strip with only 1/8-inch border around the lettering.

22. With the ruler, find the center of the bottom of the frame. Spread a very thin coat of the translucent liquid Sculpey on it with your finger. Center the lettered strip at the bottom of the frame and press on gently (figure M).

23. Over the animal print part of the frame, spread a thin even coat of the translucent liquid Sculpey to aid in durability and weather resistance. Bake the entire metal frame with the clay at 275 F degrees for another 15 minutes. Cool completely.

24. Place one teaspoon of the translucent liquid Sculpey in a small dish. With a skewer, add a very small amount of black oil paint and mix thoroughly into the liquid clay. Use your finger to spread the black clay into the letter impressions at the bottom of the frame. Remove excess clay from the surface of the lettered panel with your finger and then a paper towel. Make sure the black liquid clay fills the letters enough to make them stand out. Bake and cool the frame again at 275 F degrees for 10 minutes.

25. After the frame is cool, gently pry the clay veneer off of the metal base frame. Apply an even coat of an industrial craft adhesive to the frame (we recommend using a flexible, weather-resistant outdoor type with UV protectants such as UV 6800, the outdoor version of E-6000) and replace the clay veneer, pressing together the clay and metal. Allow adhesive to dry for a day before using. Always use industrial adhesives carefully with proper ventilation.

26. For extra finishing, wet-sand the surface of the frame and the lettered panel with first a fine and then extra-fine sanding sponge (or 600- and then 800-grit wet/dry sandpaper). Wipe off clay residue from frame and lettered panel with a damp cloth.

27. Brush clay frame with one coat of the Fimo matte varnish (not the water-based formula). Allow first coat to dry and apply a second coat. When the second coat of varnish is dry, the frame is ready to use. The varnish adds an extra protective coating on the clay for increased durability and weather resistance.