Materials:
pattern
2-1/8 yards of 60-inch wide boucle
fusible interfacing - 1-1/8 yards
1/2-inch shoulder pads
5-3/4-inch buttons
rat-tail cording
ultra suede
seam binding - optional
organza
Steps:
1. Since boucle fabric can easily unravel, zigzag, stitch or serge the sides of the pieces to keep them from unraveling while constructing the jacket. Finish the seams by serging, turning over 1/4 inch and stitching, or using a bias binding or transparent seam finish.
2. To the reduce bulk in the collar, alter the pattern by doubling the size of the pattern, cutting it in half, switching the positions of the left and right pieces and pinning them together in the center. Allow a 5/8-inch seam allowance at the pin and add a 5/8-inch seam allowance on one side to compensate. When cut from the fabric , the altered pattern will allow a back center seam (figure A).
3. Stitch the two lower edges of the collar together.
4. Cut pocket pieces with rounded outer edges and pin the pieces with right sides together. Cut the under pocket flap to 3/8 inch. Turn the flap over and serge it . Serge the top edge of the flap. Add interfacing to the upper pocket. Press the flap down, sew the pocket pieces together and turn the pocket right side out.
5. Wrap rat-tail cording with ultra suede material and use fusible interfacing to secure (figure B). Stitch with a zipper foot.
6. Sew the ultra suede piping to the top edge of the under pocket.
7. Keeping the under pocket out of the way, stitch the back tab of the ultra suede piping to the jacket to attach the pocket.
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