Whatever vest lining technique you normally use, it is assured that this one is easier, faster and alteration friendly. This technique can be used for a reversible vest or a lined vest with or without piping. Since vests look better if crisp, I suggest interfacing the entire vest with a lightweight fusible such as Fuse Knit.
- Place one vest front and lining front with right sides together. Sew all edges except the shoulder and the side seam (figure 1). Complete the other front in the same manner. Clip curves. Press seams open and trim to 1/4".
- Turn vest fronts right side out through the still-open side seams. Press well .3. In the middle of the bottom edge of the back vest, run a 6"-long ease line at 1/2". This will prevent the edge from stretching when it is turned right side out. The ease line is not necessary on the lining since lining fabric has no stretch.
- Place vest back and lining back with right sides together. Sew neck and armholes (figure 2). Clip curves.
- Sew bottom of vest, leaving a 6" opening in the center for turning right side out. Press seams open, and trim to 1/4".
- With the back still inside out, insert one front that has been turned right side out between the wrong-side-out layers of the back. Make sure that the right sides of vest are facing each other and vest front edges are facing each other in the middle.
- Place front shoulder into the opening of the back shoulder. Repeat for second front. Make sure that front shoulder fits into back shoulder snugly. If not, deepen seam allowance slightly at the neck until the fit is snug. Otherwise the neck seam will not be smooth when turned right side out. Sew shoulders (figure 3).
- Push vest front side seams into vest back side seam openings. Once again, make sure there is a snug fit. If not, deepen seam allowance at bottom edge until the fit is snug. Sew side seams through all four thicknesses.
- Through bottom opening, turn vest right side out. Vest edges are already pressed.
Try on the vest. Alterations are easy; just reach in through the back opening to taper in or let out the vest. Sew bottom of vest back closed by hand. Because of the ease stitch done in step four, these two layers are exactly the same size. Give the vest a final pressing.
Resources Made In America
by Connie Ulasewicz (ISBN: 0966200926)
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