Sewing machine needles are identified by two numbers and a letter, such as 90/14 H. The first number is the European number, and the second is the American number. The higher the number, the thicker the fabric needs to be. The letter will tell you what kind of point it has. Typically H is a very sharp point that will work for any type of woven fabric. Here are some examples of what works best with certain kinds of fabric.
- Chiffon/Silk/Georgette - 65/9 H - These types of fabric also require embroidery thread that is 100% cotton. When sewing with these fabrics, pull the fabric taut while going through the machine. Your stitch length should also be very small. Try it at a two.
- Denim - 100/16 HJ - The HJ means that the needle has a very sharp point
- Fake Fur - 80/12 H
- Knit - 75/11 HS - The HS means that the needle has a rounded point so it won't tear or run the knit fabric.
- Lightweight Cotton - 70/10 H
- Linen - 80/12 H
- Lycra - 80/12 H SUK - This needle is the only needle that will effectively work with Lycra.
- Microfiber - 70/10 HM - Patterns should never be placed on the grain of microfiber. You are guaranteed to have puckered seams. Instead, shift the pattern slightly on the fabric (SEWN3).
- Polar Fleece - 75/11 HS
- Upholstery Fabric - 90/14 H
- Velvet - 80/12 H
Other Needle Types and Techniques
- Topstitching - 90/14 N - These are usually twin needles and are color-coded. A blue needle can be used with knits, and a red needle should be used for woven fabrics.
- Use a knit needle, or 74/11 HS, to topstitch a waistband. This will prolong the elastic.
- For an embroidery needle, use a shiny rayon thread.
- For a metallica needle, use a metallic thread.
- Use sharps or betweens when hand-sewing; you don't want a big hole in the fabric!
- A wing needle is very fat and will go in and out of the same hole. It's perfect for the hem stitch or for heirloom sewing. Use a small thread such as a 60 to 70 weight or a thin rayon fabric.
- Quilting needles should be very sharp and very thin.
- Embroidery needles have a large eye and can be used with the delicate metallic thread.
- Run a needle across a pair of old nylons to test its sharpness. If the needle tears the nylons, then it's time to get a new needle.
Resources sewing machine - Viking
Available at local sewing and appliance stores.
Viking Sewing Machines Inc. / Husqvarna, Viking and White
Westlake, OH
Toll-free: 800-446-2333
Website:
www.husqvarnaviking.com
Guests Nina Kay Milenius (Donovan)
Sewing Expert, Viking Sewing Machines Inc. / Husqvarna, Viking and White
Westlake, OH
Toll-free: 800-446-2333
Website:
www.husqvarnaviking.com
Also in this Episode
)
