Get ready to bring the big and broad topic of finishing a quilt down to the basics. Southern California quilt instructor Billie Lauder joins Alex Anderson to demonstrate how to finish and sign quilts. Lauder talks about the 3-Bs: borders, backing, and bindings.
Pondering the Border
Look at the finished quilt top and consider a few things:
- Does the quilt need a border? A quilt may look wonderful with just a simple binding .
- Should the border be six or 12 inches? Using a larger border will add to the size of the quilt.However, don't add borders just to make the quilt top bigger. It 's better to keep the integrity of the pieced units and if the quilt needs to be larger , make more blocks.
Still pondering borders? Take a look at these samples. This 1876 lightning-streak pattern quilt seems to say, "no more," not needing the addition of borders (figure A). In order to stop the design in this quilt (figure B), two different colored borders were added. Pieced borders can really add to the dimension of a quilt (figure C).
Steps:
Basics of Border Application
1. Measure - Use a ruler, yardstick or a tape measure. The most accurate measurement will be through the middle section of the quilt.
2. Cut - Cut a strip of fabric, based on the measurement of the quilt, about 1-3 /4 to 2-1/2-inches wide.
3. Fold - For correct placement of the inner-border fabric strip to the quilt top , here's a trick--fold the inner-border fabric strip in half and place a pin on the fold. Open up and bring one cut end to the pinned middle, mark the fold. Repeat using the other end. The inner-border is identified as a cut end, pin, center-pin, pin , and cut end. Fold the quilt top in half to find the exact center and mark the fold with a pin. Match the inner-border center-pin with that of the pinned middle of the quilt top. Don't assume where the obvious center might be in a quilt. Center point may actually be off a bit. With right sides together, stitch the border to the quilt top and press to the border. This method will keep the border from having a rippled look.
Backing Fabrics
Unfortunately, there are not too many fabrics that are large enough to use just one piece of fabric for a quilt backing. And those fabrics that are 90 to 108 inches wide are not the pretty fabrics. A bed sheet is not recommended for a quilt backing. So what's the alternative? Create "back art" by piecing fabrics to the desired or needed size for a quilt back. Here's the process:
1. Fold one piece of fabric, (72-inches or whatever the measurement is) selvage to selvage and press the fold line.
2. Right sides together place both pieces together and stitch to form a tube. Note , selvages have not been cut away. Stitch a 1/2-inch seam allowance and cut the selvage after stitching.
3. Slide a cutting mat into the tube with pressed center on top. Using a rotary blade, ruler and the pressed-in seam as a guide, cut the top fabric in half (figure D).
4. Open the backing up and press the seams to the darker fabric. Another tip--if the quilt top is of a light fabric, use a light colored fabric for the backing piece . A dark fabric used on the back could possibly show through.
Basting
1. Always begin with the backing right side down. Starting in the middle, place strips of masking tape or packing tape about three inches apart (figure E). For large quilts, jumbo clips found at office supply stores work well too.
2. Fold the batting into fourths for better distribution.
3. Baste the quilt layers together using a long piece of thread and a darner needle . Here's a finger-saving tip--use a spoon to catch the needle as it's pushed up through the fabric (figure F).
3. Small, one-inch safety pins may also be used to baste a quilt.
4. Not enough room at home to baste a quilt? Consider asking a quilt shop, church or even the local library for use of a tabletop. It doesn't hurt to ask and they might even help with the basting process.
Binding
Follow these tips to get out of a bind over binding.
1. First, determine if you should cut binding fabric on the bias or on grain. If the quilt has scalloped edges, the binding will be a bias cut. For a straight-edged quilt, binding is cut on grain.
2. Cut binding strips about 1-3/4 to 2-/2-inches wide, depending on the batting and the size of the quilt, and fold in half.
3. Create a unique look by combining fabrics for a binding piece. To join the two fabrics, cut the fabric on a 45-degree angle, stitch together using a 1/4-inch seam allowance, and press seam open. A diagonal cut will eliminate excess bulk (figure G).
4. Attach the binding by starting in the bottom third of the quilt. Begin about mid-point, leaving approximately eight-inches loose. Using 1/4-inch seam, begin stitching through all three layers of the quilt, using about 12 stitches to the inch. A walking foot is recommended to help move the fabric through the machine.
5. About 1/4 inch from the approaching edge, place a pin in the quilt to know where to stop the stitch line (figure H). Sew to the pin, walking the needle to that point if need be. Remove pin and pivot the quilt to stitch straight off of the quilt.
Perfect Mitered Corners
1. Turn the binding strip back on a 45-degree angle and finger press (figure I).
2. Turn the binding strip back on itself and continue stitching (figure J).
3. After the binding has been stitched in place, trim away the quilt backing and batting.
4. Fold the binding over to the backside of the quilt (figure K).
5. One side of the binding will naturally fold down first. Fold that part down and place a fingernail in the corner, fold down the other side and hand-stitch in place (figure L).
Quilt Signing
Like any piece of art, a quilt needs to be signed. Here 's a few ideas:
- Write the information directly on the quilt (figure M). Caution with this method! There's a risk factor--if a mistake is made, that's it, its permanent.
- Create a label and attach the label to the quilt back (figures N). Press a piece of freezer paper with pre-drawn lines to the backside of the label to allow for easier writing (figure O).
- Use permanent ink marking tools. Washable ink will bleed in the first washing . The best pens to use will indicate that they're waterproof, textile fabric or pigment ink pens. Pens are available at fabric, quilt or craft shops.
Information to include when signing the quilt:
- Quilter's name (first, last and if married, maiden name)
- Date the quilt top was made and, if different, date of quilting
- Location of quilter - city name, etc.
- Who the quilt was made for, etc.
Through the years, quilts have come to be like history books, so keep good records in the passing of these traditions.
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