Applique Basics

Tools for applique
- long needle (sharp or a mariner's needle)
- fine thread (recommended to use silk thread in a neutral color)
- permanent marking pen
- scissors
- safety pins and straight pins
- template material (freezer paper, contact paper, poster paper)
- office dots or garage sale labels (found at office supply stores)

Fabric Choices
Don't rely solely on solid fabrics. Create interest in a quilt by considering fabrics with texture, contrast and pattern (figure A).

Two Approaches to Applique
There are basically two categories to applique--prepared and non-prepared applique. Prepared applique is turning the raw edges under before sewing the applique piece to the fabric, whereas non-prepared applique is to just simply cut the pattern piece and turn the raw edges under with the needle while sewing. No preparation is done when using the non-prepared method. Templates are used with both methods.

Steps for Nonprepared Applique
- Cut out the desired template shape and place the shape on the applique fabric. Here's a sample using a freezer paper template that is placed on the colored fabric, with shiny side down, and pressed with an iron (figure B). Note: make sure the shiny side is down, otherwise the freezer paper will stick to the iron.

- Pin the applique fabric to the background fabric. Pin the threads on the backside so the thread won't get snagged on the pins (figure C). Remember to keep applique stitches to a small and consistent size.

- Needle-turning - When fabric has a more straight edge, the fabric is cut away leaving about 1/4-inch seam (figure D). However, on tighter curves, more fabric is cut away. Tuck the 1/4-inch fabric under with the point of the needle, gather just a few threads of background fabric, and come up through the applique fabric catching the fabric that was tucked under. This is known as a tack stitch (figure E).

- Create a perfect point by going one stitch past the point. Next, use a pair of scissors, toothpick, something with a point and push, pivot, pinch and pull the fabric. Push the point of the fabric under; pivot to tuck the fabric back towards the already stitched side (figure F); pinch the fabric to hold in place and pull the thread to create a perfect point (figure G). Continue needle-turning the fabric to finish the applique.

- Corners and inside points - Approximately 1/2 inch from an inside point, cut into the point approximately 1/16 inch from the turn line (figure H). Place the needle at the inside point and use the side of the needle to turn under the fabric . Using the thumb, pinch down the fabric and slide the needle to turn under the fabric (figure I).

Steps for Prepared Applique
The best time to use the prepared applique method is when a design has tight curves.

- Using an office dot (found at office supply stores), place the dot down on the applique fabric (figure J). Trim the fabric leaving 1/8-inch seam. Next, place the same dot with the sticky side up and using a seam ripper, turn the edges over to stick to the dot to create a perfect circle (figure K). Remember the dot will have to be removed. Once the applique has been stitched on, from the backside of the background fabric, make a small slit in the background fabric and gently remove the dot.

- Freezer paper template - Make a template out of freezer paper, shiny side up. Begin turning the fabric edges over the freezer paper and use the tip of an iron to adhere the fabric to the freezer paper. The same principle applies if there is an inside corner. Again clip to the inside point about 1/16-inch from the turn line and then turn the edges over. Tack down with small consistent stitches to the background fabric.

Applique Alternatives
Want a folk art look to an appliqued piece? Accomplish this with a blanket stitch using embroidery floss. Or, if hand stitching is just not your cup of tea, why not try using a satin stitch setting on the sewing machine. Applique can be difficult, but learning the techniques will simplify the art.