Sparkling Vases - Section 6

If you've ever aspired to make an art quilt but didn't know where to start, this is the project for you. Designer Tom Russell breaks up the process in six simple sections with this stunning wall art design called Sparkling Vases—a quilt that's sure to bring out the quilt-lover in those with even the most contemporary of tastes. We're wrapping up with the assembly, borders and finishing instructions for this six-month project, but you can join in the fun at any time! Just start with Section 1.

Steps:
Applique Templates
Draft and cut applique templates for panel 1 and 2 flowers from template plastic or card stock.

• Cut a 4-1/2-inch circle and label it as template 1f.
  
• Cut a three-inch circle and label it as template 2f – small yo-yo flower.
  
• Cut a 3-1/2-inch circle and label it as template 2g – medium yo-yo flower.
  
• Cut a four-inch circle and label it as template 2h – large yo-yo flower.

Cutting
1. From inner border fabric, cut five, 1-1/2" x width-of-fabric strips, centering on fabric pattern. If the fabric strip is not at least 45-1/2 inches wide, piece strips to make strips long enough for borders.

2. From accent border fabric, cut four, 1/2" x width-of-fabric strips. Piece as needed to make strips long enough for borders.

3. From outer border fabric, cut:
- six, 6-1/2" x width-of-fabric strips for outer border. Piece as needed to make strips long enough for borders.
- six, 2-1/4" x width-of-fabric strips for binding. Piece as needed to make strips long enough for borders.

4. From each five-inch square of panel 1 flower fabric, cut one 4-1/2-inch circle (template1f).

5. From panel 2 flower fabric, cut: small flower (template 2f), two medium flower patterns (template 2g), large flower pattern (template 2h).

6. From the 22-inch length of 7/8-inch wide pink ombre ribbon, cut a four-inch strip; two, five-inch strips; and a six-inch strip.

2. Measure the width of the quilt through the center of the top. Do not measure the edges of the top—panels are often distorted through handling, so measuring through the center is more accurate. Trim two inner border strips to that measurement and add to top and bottom of quilt. Note: If the fabric strip is not long enough, piece a strip long enough, matching the pattern. Ease in any fullness so the top is squared.

3. Repeat the measurement process through the middle of the quilt to get the side lengths, including the borders just added. Trim two inner border strips to the correct measurement and add the inner side borders.

4. Repeat the process for the narrow accent border and the wide outer border. The quilt top is ready for layering and quilting.

Quilting
1. Cut the backing fabric and batting at least four inches larger than the assembled, bordered quilt top.

2. Place the backing face down on the work surface. Secure to prevent puckers. Layer the batting on top of the backing.

3. Center the quilt top face up on the layers.

4. Baste in a grid pattern using safety pins or thread.

2. Press binding in half lengthwise, right side out.

3. To apply binding, begin along bottom edge of quilt to one side. Align the raw edges; turn the end of the binding strip in at a 45-degree angle (figure A). Begin stitching 1/4 inch from edge.

5. When binding is completely stitched around quilt, back to beginning point. Overlap and stitch one inch past original fold. Cut off excess binding.

6. Turn binding to back of quilt, covering stitching line, and stitch down using a blind stitch. Corners should be mitered when folded to the back. Remember to blind stitch the folds of the corners closed.

7. No quilt is complete without a signature block! Sign and date your quilt with a back label complete with name, date, quilt recipient, etc. Include any information that is important to the history of the quilt.

Panel 1
1. Place the 4-1/2-inch round flower cutouts (template 1f) right sides facing and stitch 1/8 inch from edge (figure E). Fold circle in half and finger press. Cut a slit in the lighter fabric—large enough to turn the circle. Be careful not to cut too close to the fold or seam allowance (figure F).

2. Turn circle right side out and press lightly.

6. Fold outer raw edges to fit inside flower and baste. Insert ribbon into flower and stitch to secure. Stitch flower to stem of panel 1.

8. Begin beading at bottom edge of vase along applique line with purple seed beads. Begin with a backstitch then space beads about 1/4 inch apart. At the top of the vase, change to emerald seed beads and continue along outer edge of stem.

4. Place flowers along the stem as shown in back cover photo. Attach using yellow button centers and pearle cotton thread.

5. Sew green seed beads along embroidery on leaves to highlight the leaf shape. The designer positioned the beads about 1/4 inch apart.

2. Using a complementary bead color for each flower color, stitch four bugle beads topped with four seed beads to each flower top (figure O).

2. Stitch complementary-color seed beads around outer edge of flower, spacing 1/4 inch apart (figure P).

3. Stitch complementary-color 6/0 beads around purple part of inner flower, spacing 1/4 inch apart (figure P).

2. Stitch seed beads around the vase accent curve, spacing 1/4 inch apart.

3. Stitch emerald-color seed beads along inside edge of small leaves, spacing 1/4 inch apart.

Click here for this main page of this project with links to the other sections.