Metal House Light

Materials:

Walnut Hollow slide lid box, 8" x 5-1/2" x 2-1/2"
Folk Art pigment acrylics: permanent rose, titanium white
Folk Art blacksmith black antiquing medium
K & S Engineering: 9" x 12" sheet 0.013 gauge tin
AMACO Rub 'n Buff patina
clear matte acrylic sealer
drill and 1/4" wood-boring bit
scrap piece of wood
fine-grit sandpaper
fine steel wool (#0000)
tack cloth
9" x 12" cardboard
11" x 14" piece 3/4" plywood
2" keyless candelabra socket base
1" steel nipple with 1/8"-IP threads
brass locknut with 1/8"-IP threads
8' electrical cord set with plug
epoxy adhesive
15-watt cool-burning nightlight bulb
disposable plastic or latex gloves
metal ruler or framing square
utility knife
safety glasses
flat paintbrush
water basin
paper towel
soft cloth
masking tape
pencil
punch awl
hammer
toothpick

1. Remove box lid and set aside. Lay scrap piece of wood under back of box and drill hole near bottom (figure A). This will be used to slip electric cord through later. Sand any rough edges and wipe with tack cloth.

2. Basecoat all but inside back of box with one to two coats of permanent rose. For better reflection when illuminated, basecoat inside back of box with titanium white (figure B). Let dry.

3. Antique all outside edges of box using blacksmith black; brushing the medium on then quickly wiping away excess with a soft cloth. Corners and edges can be lightly dry brushed with blacksmith black to give a more weathered appearance (figure C). Set aside to dry completely.

4. Lightly sand metal with steel wool; scuffing surface to allow paint to grip more readily when finishing. Wipe dust with tack cloth.

5. Tape metal to cardboard. This will help prevent accidental cutting during handling and is also helpful in controlling punch depth. Fasten to plywood with tape or thumb tacks (Note: If using tacks, insert around outer edge and not through metal.)

7. Trace or photocopy pattern provided in PDF at the right. Using a ruler, draw two lines above door for use as reference points to keep letters and numbers straight. Trace or write household name and year established onto pattern and then tape onto metal (figure D).

8. With punch awl held perpendicular to metal, use hammer to punch along pattern lines (figure E); evenly space holes throughout the design (figure F).

Tip: Use an old rolling pin (if needed) to flatten metal that has curled slightly during punching. Place face down onto solid surface and roll.

9. To cut out house, place metal ruler (or framing square) along one side edge of pattern at a time. Score metal several times using utility knife (figure G). With ruler still in place, fold metal upward along straight, scored edge. Fold up and down until "break" occurs at scored line (figure H). Repeat as needed to cut out house (figure I).

10. Antique metal first with blacksmith black and then with patina Rub 'n Buff, adding several layers until desired effect is achieved (figure J). Lightly dry brush with blacksmith black.

Tip: Additional color may be added to door and windows to further highlight. For best effect when lit, use toothpick to remove excess medium lodged in punched holes (figure K).

11. Spray finish box and metal "house" with acrylic sealer. Let dry.

12. Slip electric cord through drilled hole and connect wire ends to candelabra base as directed by manufacturer's instructions. Screw one end of threaded nipple into bottom of candelabra base, and twist opposite end into locknut only until flush with bottom. Adhere locknut, with attached candelabra to bottom of box (figure L). (See diagram in PDF at right.) Let dry overnight to cure.

13. Insert light bulb. Slide metal "house" into slot that previously held lid and plug in cord to light up (figure M).