Silver and Gold Satellite Pin

Materials:

sterling silver flat wire
22K gold metal
22K gold/sterling bimetal--a laminated sheet of metal
various jewel stones--garnet and pearl
paper and pencil
solder
flux
safety glasses
acetylene torch and lighter
"pickle" mixture in a crock-pot
tweezers
metal file
sandpaper
rolling mill
pre-textured stainless steel template
sandblasting equipment
jeweler’s saw
metal shears
permanent marker
soap and water
wire brush for cleaning
oxidizing chemical
artist brush
pin findings
metal jeweler’s glue

1. Draw desired design on paper. This design consisted of two concentric circles with bezel jewels extending from the outer circle (figure A). Cut lengths of 3mm x 1mm flat sterling wire and shape them into off-circles according to the pattern.

2. Sand the ends of the sterling wire to ensure a tight fit. Cut small pieces of solder. Apply flux to the ends of the flat wire. Light the torch and solder the seams closed. Place the circles in the pickle solution to clean and cool.

3. Position the two circles concentrically (figure B). Cut small bits of the same flat wires to fit as spacers between the circles (figure C). Apply flux to the ends of the spacers. Solder them in place using the torch. Place them in the pickle solution. Remove.

4. Cut a rectangular piece of 22K gold/sterling bimetal sheet. Texture the metal piece by placing it between a folded sheet of paper (figure D) and passing it through a rolling mill with a patterned steel template (figure E).

5. Place the soldered pin shape on top of the textured metal and draw the shape of two sections of the pin between the two circles and the spacers onto the sheet (figure F). Cut out the rough shapes of the textured sheet using metal shears. Solder them to the back of the pin (figure G). Trim excess metal with a jeweler’s saw. File seams.

6. To make silver bezels for stones, wrap the fine silver flat wire around the stones, cutting to fit and soldering the seams. Solder the bezels to the sheet metal (figure H) and trim using a jeweler’s saw. File the seams and sand.

7. Other elements to attach to the circular shape were made using 22K metal in circular shapes, combining of 22K and silver metals in half circle shapes and 22K and silver metals in square shapes. Each was crafted in a similar fashion as described above (figure I).

8. Solder the bezels and elements to the outside edge of the pin.

9. Solder pin findings on the back of the pin.

10. To finish the pin, file, sand and scrub pin clean using a wire brush.

11. Apply an oxidizing chemical to the textured silver metal pieces with an artist brush (figure J).

12. Set the stones in the silver bezels. Glue the pearl to the post (figure K).

13. Sandblast the bezels and outside frame of the pin for a soft, matte finish on the metal.

Website: www.sydneylynch.com

Pickle and flux are available for purchase at jewelry supply vendors. Flux is a compound used to help solder stick onto metal and prevent oxidation (rust, tarnish, etc.). Pickle is a chemical (acid) bath used to dissolve surface oxidation and flux residue from the metal's surface. Pickle works best when heated. A crock-pot works well for this. Warning: Pickle is toxic. Once the crock-pot is used for pickle, it should never be used for food preparation.