Home improvement chat—03/03/03
HGTV: Welcome to HGTV's hosted chat room. Tonight, Henry Harrison, home improvement expert and host of Help Around the House, is here to answer your home improvement and repair questions. Good evening, Henry!
Henry Harrison: Good evening! It may not seem like it, but spring weather is just over the ridge, and tonight is a good night to do some planning in preparation for tackling those repair projects, that are gonna fill up our "to do" list before we know it.
Question: I recently had antique heartwood pine floors installed in my kitchen. Boards were face nailed. Is there any way to fill in large cracks between boards? Some cracks are 1/8 in. wide. Also, is there a quick way to clean & spruce up 27-year old greasy dull kitchen cabinets without doing a complicated refinishing job?
Henry: The first part of that question—what's happened on the floors—they have expanded and contracted. It's all about seasonal movement. One possible aid in minimizing the problem, is to try to keep the temperature and humidity levels in that room at a constant level. A good starting point is 76 degrees and 60% humidity year 'round. As far as the cabinets go, a good cleaning with TSP or trisodium phosphate, then a light sanding, and then the new finish applied. That's if you want to change the color or paint the cabinets. If you'd like for them to be natural wood, use a gel-type stripper to remove the old varnish, or shellac, clean the cabinets, lightly sand and then refinish with varnish or even a lacquer.
Q: Hi Henry, Love your show. We have a 1935 house. The bathroom floor is composed of octagonal tile. We want to renovate the bathroom and put down new tile. Can we lay new tile on top of the existing tile, or do we need to tear out the old tile first. Thanks.
Henry: If the old tile is in good shape, if all the pieces are there and the floor doesn't have any cracks or bumps, or depressions, the new floor can be applied over the old tile with proper preparation. This will involve dulling the surface of the old tiles and applying a special mastic type adhesive to adhere the new tiles. Another option is to install quarter-inch thick hardiboard, or cement board, over the old tile and then install the new tile onto the hardiboard with a thin-set adhesive. The difference here is the level of the floor will be raised by using the hardiboard method.
Q: Our builder had a copper strip put on the upstairs porch so that it is facing out. The copper has run. Is there some kind of protective coating we can use to put on the copper so it doesn't bleed onto the white boards below it?
Henry: What's happened is copper normally tarnishes to a green sort of color, and the best thing to do is to clean it—you can try vinegar and water—and once it's clean, steel-wool the area lightly with a 4-o steel wool. Then apply a clear-coat sealer—it can be in spray form. This will help as long as this coating is maintained. Once the coating is scratched, this will allow the copper to again begin to tarnish. If you catch it quick enough, you can steel wool the tarnished area and go through the same process.
Q: Hi, Henry. I have 3 related questions for you. The basement of my new house is already framed with Metal Studs. 1- How can I install electrical boxes on Metal studs?? 2- what is better Metal studs or wood ?? 3- Do I need to add Wood to the metal studs??
Henry: First question—There are special boxes that are made to attach to the metal framing. It's just a matter of using self-drilling screws. The metal studs are excellent for areas where termites are a big problem. They're light, they can be cut, with a circular saw or a mitre saw if you use the right blade. Another advantage with the metal studs—there are holes and knockouts already there to make the installation of electrical wiring a lot more convenient. For your last question, it depends on what you'd want to attach to the metal. As long as you use the self-drilling screws, you can attach just about anything. Most of the self-drilling screws are more effectively installed if you use a drill with either a nut-driving bit or a Phillips head bit.
Q: About the cracks in the pine floors, they were just installed and I don't want food and liquids to fall in the cracks. Assuming the boards don't expand or contract, what can I put besides caulking or wood putty? I really would like for you to suggest something, Thanks, again.
Henry: Don't put wood putty in because it isn't elastic, and it will just crumble over time. I really don't recommend putting caulk in either, but if you do, you can get caulk in different colors, and you can add coloring by squeezing the caulk out and mixing the coloring in. Also, one of the reasons the floor has expanded and contracted so quickly is because if the wood is new or "young" lumber, it's still very moist, and as it loses the moisture, it will shrink. That's part of the reason for the gaps in the floor. A caveat: Was the flooring placed in the room where it was installed at least 7 days before it was actually put on the floor?
Q: What do you mean knock outs? [in reference to metal studs question]
Henry: Knockouts are irregular and circular holes. The studs will have these holes already drilled in. That way, you don't have to do any drilling to get the wires through the studs because they're already there.
Q: Henry, our basement is accessible only by a trap door in the floor; it's the size of a real door and thus it is getting heavier and heavier to life up as time goes by. Is that a way we could put some type of electric opener on this door similar to a garage door opener where you click and it opens, or in this case lifts up. I might add this basement is under only our bedroom, thus we walk on this trap door every time we walk into our bedroom. I might add for clarification that there is a normal staircase beneath the trap door. Second question pertains to this bedroom. It has grass wallpaper on it. ."ugh". It is removable without destroying the wallboard underneath? Thanks for the great advice. I love the way you teach people in such a kind manner!
Henry: Thanks very much for the compliment! My suggestion on the trap door is to look on the Internet, under "cellar doors." That would give the homeowner an idea of what's available in lift-assisted products. I'd imagine, although I've not seen it, that a spring-loaded mechanical arm of some time would be able to lift that trap door. Check around and do a little searching. Most of the older trap doors were on the outside, leading down into the cellar. That's actually an advantage to have it on the inside because the access is easier and more convenient, plus you're not exposed to the weather. There's always the option—since there's a stairway under the trap door—to build a staircase along with a landing, frame in a door and add a wall, and you'll have direct access to it by just opening a real door instead of the trap. As for the bedroom wallpaper...You can use a broad knife or drywall knife that's about 12" wide, give the grass a little sprinkle with a sprayer, just clear water, a light mist and start scraping lightly. Then come back and clean the wall with a good household cleaner like 409 or Mr. Clean. Rinse it well and any gouges, or holes that are left can be patched with a lightweight spackling compound.
Q: Do we need to apply for a permit if we are to change the kitchen where the living room is and the living room to where the kitchen is?
Henry: It depends on where you live and the local requirements. Best thing to do is to check at City Hall and ask for someone in the Building or Planning department to give you advice on whether or not you need a permit.
Q: We replaced the tongue-and-grove flooring on a porch. The lumber sat outside for at least a week before we laid it. I thought I was doing it correctly. I spaced the pieces about a nail's apart. Now that the floor has aged over the past two years, the flooring has developed gaps up to one-quarter inch wide. Should I have pulled the flooring much closer together when I installed it? I'm probably going to redo the job and want to do it correctly this time. By the way, the porch is cover, but is open on three sides to the elements.
Henry: If it's a tongue-in-groove floor, there shouldn't be space when it's installed. It should be tight and blind-nailed through the tongues, down into the floor joist with either spiral shank or ring shank nails.
Q: Is it hard to remove tiling when you want to replace it for another one?
Henry: Not usually, but be careful, especially if the tile has been on the floor for more than 30 years. It may contain asbestos. Don't sand it. If you can get it out with large pieces, wear gloves, safety glasses and a mask, and dispose of old tile in heavy-duty contractor-type bags that are plastic, at least 3 mil thick. If the tile's in good shape, and you think it may contain asbestos, you can always have it tested. Just install your new flooring over it.
Q: Henry, almost every wall in our 57 year old home has probably at least two layers of wallpaper, which previous owners painted on top of. It seems well adhered, and I imagine removing it would be a major project. Aside from seams showing through, can you see any problem with not removing it and adding yet another layer of our own wallpaper to these walls?
Henry: No, if it's solid and there's no problem, why not? If that doesn't work, you can use a steamer to remove both existing layers. You'll probably have to use a steamer and a wall perforation device that's usually a roller with spikes embedded in it.
Q: We have cedar clapboard-what is the best way to keep it in shape so we don't have to paint it every 2 years?
Henry: Best thing to do is to just make sure that where the clapboard meets the trim, these areas are caulked very well to keep water out. Make sure it's properly nailed and the bottom edge of the clapboards shouldn't be caulked because that's where the boards are allowed to breathe and compensate for the temperature differentials between the exterior and interior of your home. If you see a board that's cracked, make that repair in a hurry by either replacing the board or gluing the crack back together with a waterproof glue.
Q: If the tile has been on for more than 30 years, is there anything else I should be aware of?
Henry: It may be either very hard or easy to remove, depending on the type of glue that was used, and what the sub-floor is made of. If the sub-floor is plywood, and a high-grade glue was used, it will probably be pretty hard to remove. Remember to check for asbestos—have the tile tested if you're in doubt. One way you can tell by looking, is that if the tile's very brittle, has a black, tarry substance on the backside, and when you break or snap it, it's powdery and fibrous.
Q: What is a good way to bring back the shine and life to 30 year old linoleum floors. The linoleum is in good shape. Thanks!
Henry: A good stripping with a professional floor buffer, and it's a strip, condition and polishing. It's a three-step process. You can rent the buffer at the bigger hardware stores and home centers. That's really the most effective way.
Q: How can I replace vinyl tile on some steps that have a small portion of concrete on them?
Henry: Do it with a high-grade mastic that 's rated for use on porous surfaces like concrete. However, if the vinyl tile is on the exterior, there's a good chance that the combination of moisture and foot traffic will break down the surface of the tile and the adhesive over time. It's just not a good match outside unless the area's protected.
Q: Thanks for your answer to my previous question! One more: Are you familiar with a "prototype" of drywall that consisted of very heavy square panels of plaster (ours are approx. 16" x 16")? House is around 60 years old... we have a grid of creases and even some cracks where these wallboards were joined on the walls and ceiling. Don't know if we can or should remedy them. One contractor said that he would apply drywall on top for us. ($$$)
Henry: They call that "beaver board," I believe. It was a good product. One way that you can make the boards look better without completely replacing them or covering completely with drywall, is to retape and float all the joints using a mesh-type mending tape and setting compound. This compound is similar to drywall mud, except it comes in powder form and it's mixed on-site with water.
Q: So I wouldn't need to put plywood on the steps and build around it? (for steps with vinyl tiles)
Henry: If it's outside, plywood is just going to compound the problem because it will get wet and delaminate.
Q: Our wood front door is showing serious signs of sun/weather exposure-cracks, fading, etc. Is there anyway to bring it back to life?
Henry: First thing, if it's a frame and panel door, it will be relatively easy to correct the problem. The main thing to remember is that the panels inside the frame of the door are designed to "float"—move around with seasonal temperature changes. However, most of the time people completely paint all the seams with multiple coats of paint, and as a result, there's no elasticity between the panels and the frame of the door. What happens is, when the panel starts to move, the weakest spot is where the crack is going to show up. Eventually, the crack will run along the grain line from top to bottom. In a nutshell, take a utility knife, and cut seams along a natural seam between the frame and the panel, all the way around, on every panel. Sand the door, strip it, do whatever prep you have to do if you want to change the color, or keep it natural wood... Do all the prep work, get a paint or varnish that has built-in UV light filters, caulk lightly between the frame and panel. If it's a natural color you're going for, use a clear, silicone. If you're going to paint the door, use an acrylic caulk, then apply your paint or varnish. Keep those panels flexible! Do the exact same thing on the inside of the door. Don't forget the top, bottom and edges, also. That way, the door will absorb and release moisture equally all the way around. This will help minimize distortions, cupping, cracking and other dimensional-type problems with the door.
Q: It's the steps leading into the kitchen, so the steps are inside. (steps with vinyl tiles and concrete)
Henry: If that's the case, you're in good shape and have more freedom to do other things. Use exterior plywood anyway, and a real high grade—like A, B—which means one side is excellent, the other is good.
Q: If I am putting down a plywood or cement board floor before installing laminate in a kitchen, should the cabinets be on top of that floor.
Henry: They can be whatever's most convenient for you. If it's a case where you have to do a lot of cutting around, if you could lift the cabinets, that's fine. If not, it's just your own preference, and whatever's convenient for you.
Q: I want to strip an old antique front door. It has several coats of thick paint, is flaking, chipping, etc. What is the best ( I know it won't be easy). I saw your tip about using a heat gun. Would this be good for paint this thick?
Henry: Definitely. A heat gun will take most of that material away. That would be a good start. If there's residual left, clean it up with a mild stripper. You can even try a citrus-type stripper. They work well in some but not all situations.
Q: That is some great information regarding the cracking wood door- I wish it were that simple to fix, but unfortunately, it is a solid piece of wood with some decorative carvings.
Henry: Here's another option, if it's solid wood. This will be an easier fix. Open the cracks—make them wider, by either using a thin, flexible putty knife, or anything sharp that you can get into the crack and widen a bit, not a lot. Then, once widened, take a vacuum cleaner or shop vac, suck out the debris, and run a piece of sandpaper in to rough up the area well. Then, take the tip, depending on how wide the crack is, of something sharp, dab it in water, and lightly moisten the crack. Be as consistent as possible. Then, get some polyurethane-type glue—the big brand right now is Gorilla glue. Inject the glue into the cracks, then use clamps—bar, band, wide—and clamp the areas so the crack closes up and the glue squeezes out. It doesn't have to be clamped hard, just enough to get some glue to squeeze out. Wait overnight, and the next day, the crack will be full of a very hard foam. Remove the excess, with either a chisel or putty knife, sand it and the cracks won't return—at least not in that spot. It's actually stronger than the wood itself. You could do this after stripping the door—it may be easier that way. If not, do it this way, lightly sand and repaint.
Q: Do you have any tips for painting over dated wall tile in a bathroom?
Henry: It would be best to have a company like Rainbow International visit your house. They're in the business of repairing porcelain, ceramic tile and bathtubs with a special process. There is a company in Dallas—Integrity Finishing Systems—that sells the chemicals for do it yourselfers, but you'll need to rent an HVLP sprayer to make it work right.
Q: What can be causing the paint to peel in a horizontal strip just below where the ceiling & wall meet?
Henry: Could be moisture intrusion from the outside, or an area where there's a draft, or something as simple as that area being missed during priming process. It may be that simple if it's just one area.
Q: So are you suggesting that I build plywood around the step and on top of the step to cover the total step including the concrete?
Henry: That's not my recommendation. I'm just saying that if you want to use plywood to cover what you have, you can go ahead and apply the tile directly to the concrete. Since it's inside, you have more latitude.
Q: What is the best way to clean the rust, etc. off old porcelain soap dishes? Thanks.
Henry: CLR rust remover. Start with that. It's available from places like Wal-Mart and Walgreen's. It doesn't smell bad, and you can even clean your coffee pot out with it!
HGTV: Well, everyone, our chat hour has ended. Thank you all for joining us tonight, and we hope you got the answers you needed from the chat. And thank you, Henry, for joining us, too.
