Henry Harrison 02/06/2003

HGTV: Welcome to HGTV's hosted chat room. Henry Harrison, host of Help Around the House, is here with us today to answer your home improvement and repair questions. Hello, Henry!

Henry Harrison: Hello! And welcome... You know, a mid-winter evening is a good time to plan and work out strategies that will solve some of your pending repairs around the house. So let's get started!

Question: How easy is it to change out regular thermostat to a digital one? And is the digital/programmable one effective? Can it lower my heating bill?
Henry: Digital thermostats are very effective and cost-efficient. Most models only require a four-wire hook up and a few punches on the keypad to start your energy savings. However, make sure you purchase a model made by one of the major companies like Honeywell or NuTone, and usually the better models will cost in the neighborhood of $60.

Q: I am looking for help with waterproofing my basement floor. It leaks through small cracks in the concrete.
Henry: The first step is to check your gutters and make sure that the water is being directed away from your home. Then, keep an eye and closely monitor future water intrusion. If it continues, check for broken water lines, and there's always the possibility of intrusion being caused by an underground spring. If after a month or so of extremely wet weather, the leaks stop, you can proceed by filling the cracks with an appropriate concrete patching compound, and then using a waterproofing materials specifically designed for concrete and masonry. One very effective product is called UGL, and it usually runs about $25 a gallon.

Q: Hi Henry, We want to buy a good jigsaw. Can you tell me the difference between a regular jigsaw and an orbital one? Which one is better? Love your show. When are the new ones on? Keep up the good work.
Henry: A good jigsaw will run in the range of $160, and the best jigsaw on the market today is made by Bosch. It's $159. It cuts very straight and effectively, is very ergonomic, and will last a lifetime. It is also an orbital jigsaw. The difference between an orbital jigsaw and a regular jigsaw: the orbital units cut on the downstroke and then the blade pulls back a little bit on the upstroke away from the wood or material to give the blade a little extra time to cool. This action allows a more aggressive cut, a faster cut, and the blades will last much longer.

Q: Henry, could you tell the best way to widen the door way between two rooms, for someone who isn't handy at building things? Thanks.
Henry: The best way to widen a doorway is to first remove all of the trim around the doorway. Then carefully cut away the sheetrock or drywall on both sides of the doorway until you hit the next group of studs, which will usually be about 16 inches. Once the area is open, you're able to see more clearly just how much you will need to widen. If you're widening from 32 inches to 36 inches, you will need to add studs on both sides of the opening and expand or widen the opening by at least 2 inches on each side of the old door. Once the new studs are in the rough opening, you can then reverse the process and reinstall the sheetrock, the new door jamb, door and trim. Always pick out your new door first and widen the opening accordingly. Most pre-hung doors will have a specific rough opening that will match all of the dimensions needed to mount the new door. So finally, make sure your studs are correctly placed on both sides of the opening where they will securely match up to the rough opening required for your new door.

Q: I live in a basement condo and the unit owner above has installed a wood floor over a hollow concrete slab (his floor/my ceiling). I hear every step they make and know when they drop their keys. The sound of a chair being dragged across the floor sounds like fingernails on a chalkboard. The board of trustees has refused to help me. So here is my question... How can I soundproof my ceiling from sounds from above? Any help and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. My ceiling is concrete with seams every foot and a half, covered in stucco.
Henry: One option is to spray an acoustic sound-deadening material onto the ceiling. This can be done with a rented hopper gun. They usually rent for about $60 a day. It's basically an air compressor that powers a hand-held hopper that holds the acoustic material that is easily sprayed onto the ceiling. Before you spray, make sure the existing ceiling is clean and dust-free. I don't recommend trying to drill into or glue any material to the ceiling, because the stucco will not hold it, and if you drill directly into the concrete, you run the risk of weakening the ceiling. So shop around for an effective acoustic sprayable sound-deadening material. The USG sheetrock company has a wide variety of products. Check out USG.com.

Q: When repainting my kitchen chairs do I have to seal them with a poly or is the semi-gloss paint enough?
Henry: If you seal your chairs with poly, it will serve as a minor scratch protector and it will allow your paint job to look fresher longer.

Q: We are looking to finish our basement. And need a heater/air conditioner combo. Is there such a thing?
Henry: Yes, I call them dual units. They are a little bit pricier than a normal air conditioning unit, but they are very functional, compact and effective.

Q: The home we just purchased has the type of recessed lights that you can direct onto artwork and move around. My husband was moving one and it fell out and he noticed that there was a tremendous amount of cold air flowing through. (Now I know why I always feel cold in that room). Can you use spray foam insulation in there or would it get too hot? What would be the best solution for blocking the cold? Thank you.
Henry: First of all, you have to make sure that the recessed lights that you currently have are rated to be used around insulation. Usually the designation will be marked on the outside of the canister. You'll probably have to go into the attic or next level of your home to be able to see that portion of the canister, but don't insulate until you make that determination. If you do, you run the risk of creating a fire hazard. If you don't have the insulation rating, you have the option of completely changing those lights out and the fixtures.

Q: Henry, I just want to say that I enjoy your show and I am planning to put up chair rails in my home. What is the standard measurement from floor to install the rails?
Henry: I believe the standard measurement is at 36 inches. However, it all depends on what looks best to you and what fits in with the overall plan you have for your room's decor. The 36 inches is just a general number.

Q: Henry, we have a balcony that basically is covered with what appears to be roof tar. It is exposed to the elements. We have tried outdoor carpet but it gets ruined. Any suggestions as to what to lay on the floor of the balcony?
Henry: You will need to install a material that has the capability of expanding and contracting and is very flexible. Any rigid material will separate, move around, and cracks will develop. So look for a material that has backing that will be compatible with a petroleum type substance. It will have to be an oil based substance and not acrylic. Check with a local roofing company or contractor for further suggestions.

Q: I have a home with a sizeable mud crawlspace (~1000 sq. ft) that, until I can get a French drain in place, becomes damp in wet weather. The dampness and musty smell make their way into the house. My question is this: Would it be better to get a whole-house dehumidifier and install it in the basement to vent to crawlspace or install it in the main living area? I have contacted several manufacturers who have provided me with a lot of guidance on the capacity and features of various models, but no one can suggest the most effective arrangement. My personal feeling is that a dehumidifier in the crawl space/basement would have to work much harder to remove a higher percentage of humidity than one in the main living area.
Henry: My first suggestion is to make sure that that crawl space area is cross-ventilated. All it takes are just a few 10"x18" rectangular openings that are screened or gridded to keep out animals. If the area is cross ventilated, this will definitely help cut down on the moisture problem. If you just use a dehumidifier, you're still going to be faced with the same problem down below. Your utility bills will continue to increase because of the use of the dehumidifier, which will be working extra hard to compensate for all of the moisture and condensation that's coming from the crawl space.

Q: I had a house built 6 years ago and everything was great. Now all of my doors are swinging shut by themselves. I do not know how to stop these doors from shutting. Any ideas?
Henry: Usually what happens there is the house and the foundation have shifted a bit and the doorframes are no longer level and in your case, the doors have probably shifted to the lock side. They are no longer balanced, and as a result, instead of staying open on their own, they naturally close because of the imbalance. One solution is to realign the hinges by pulling the door closer to the hinge side of the frame by deepening the hinges. The bigger solution is to tear apart the frame on the door and completely realign it.

Q: Henry, how can I rearrange my small kitchen? I love your show and would love see your show on the air more.
Henry: As far as rearranging your kitchen, the best way to start is to use a standard triangular formula, which has your stove on one side, your counters with your sink on the other, and your refrigerator on the third side of the triangle. Most of the top designers, rebuilders and remodelers use the triangular formula or method as a basis for reconstructing kitchen areas. It's been proven over the years that if your stove, refrigerator and sink/counter space are correctly placed, your kitchen will be more effective and fun to work in. Remember back in the 60s and before, kitchens were strictly utilitarian. Now kitchens serve a number of purposes. They are even mini entertainment centers... so you're limited only by your creativity and the depth of your pocketbook.

Q: Our stairway was enclosed with a wall of thin cheap paneling. We removed the paneling and the stairs are now open and bright and airy. Now we need some ideas to the type of railing to use to keep the kids from falling off the steps. The opened area is only on one side and we cannot put up a regular banister and spindles due to the way the wall is above the steps. Need some ideas to make this stairwell safe.
Henry: Unless you can erect a barrier on the railing side, the stairway will be very unsafe. The building codes require that if spindles are used, they can be no wider than 4 inches apart, so you will need to come up with an effective barrier, maybe even a partial enclosure, that will be a deterrent to falling over the stairway. So basically you have opened up a formerly enclosed staircase, but you may have to go back and at least partially close it again.

Q: Our home has single-pane windows. Besides the heat lose problems that come with single-panes but we also get condensation on the interior of the windows. DH and I are trying to figure out what's the best way to go to solve this problem. Should we get replacement windows or install storm windows on the outside over the existing windows? Also, what is the difference in replacement windows and "replacing" the entire window? What's the price difference and installation difference? Which is better? And lastly, what can we do in the meantime to minimize the condensation? It's causing a lot of mildew and is starting to rot the mullions.
Henry: To take care of the condensation problem first, you need air transfer to cut down on the condensation. So an oscillating fan in that room or in that area where the condensation is heaviest will be a great aid in helping to move the air around. As far as the single paned windows... if you can replace the windows without destroying the architectural integrity of the home, I recommend it. However, if it's an older home and you replace the windows with new ones, you run the risk of destroying the beauty of your home. One option to saving your original windows is to have them reglazed. This is a very simple process that involves removing all of the old glazing around the outside mullions and replacing it with new glazing and not caulk. Dap33 is the glazing product I use all the time. If the windows are effectively glazed, they'll last for another 20 years. If you use caulk, the caulk will shrink and deteriorate in just a matter of a couple or three years. Another option you mentioned was installing storm windows over original windows. That's always an option; but still you will have to consider if it will change the original look of your home.

Q: What is the best treatment for termites short of going to an exterminator? Have some damage to a house on the wall where the shower plumbing is. Some of the studs look like swiss cheese. Will have to replace bad studs and then treat to stop more damage.
Henry: There's a lot you can do. First, you must cut off their water source. Then you remove the areas they have already damaged and keep a sharp eye for discarded building materials and lumber that may be just lying around on your property. Check your attic also for signs of termite activity. Usually in the springtime you'll see clear wings that are about a half inch long lying around. This is evidence of termite breeding. If you see these signs, call in a professional.

Q: What times are you on now? [Help Around the House]
Henry: We're on a 7 am until 7:30 CST Saturday and Sunday mornings on the Weekend Workzone. That's 8 EST.

Q: Hi Henry, I installed 12X12 floor tiles with a 1/8 inch grout line. My question is, should I use a sanded or non sanded grout? Thanks.
Henry: Since your grout line is so thin, use an unsanded grout. If you have a wider grout line, you'll want to use a sanded grout to give the grout line more body and it'll help take up the extra space.

Q: I have bead board on the bottom half of my bathroom walls. In winter, when the heat is on, the seams separate and in summer they go back to normal. What can I do to make them look good all year long?
Henry: Better temperature control in that room, because the humidity and the changes in temperature are causing the boards to expand and contract. One option is to remove the boards, let them completely dry, and then paint them or seal them on the front and back sides. Make sure you paint or seal all of the ends also. If wood is painted on one side only , it will naturally absorb more moisture on the unpainted side, often causing the boards to warp or cup. Usually this is only a problem with young wood. The old material that was cut from old trees is a lot more stable.

Q: I have stripped my kitchen cabinets down to the bare wood and found what I believe to be fir wood. I like it so much that I would love to finish them with polyurethane and have a natural look. What is the best type (water base or oil base) to use for this project and how may coats do you recommend.
Henry: There are advantages to both oil based and water based. Water based dries quickly, is less toxic, and is easier to work with. However, sometimes it will raise the grain of the wood and it will be necessary to sand after each coat is applied. It takes the oil-based finish longer to dry, but the oil-based finish conditions the wood as it seals. It will yellow a bit, and it will give a deeper, more penetrating effect to your cabinets. It will really bring out the grain because it will penetrate better than a water-based finish. The water-based finish will dry clear. And of course, with the oil based, you have to deal with either mineral spirits, turpentine or regular paint thinner to clean brushes, hands, spills, etc. It's messy. Then you have to decide what to do with the old materials, so buy in small quantities of both. Buy just enough to get the job done.

Q: How do I remove a stripped phillips head screw from a hinge on a door frame? I removed the door but can't get the last screw out so I can replace the hinge with a new one.
Henry: You can either buy what's called a screw extractor, or you can take a drill bit and drill through what's left of the old screw.

Q: I would like to drill a small hole in glass block about the size of a dime. I tried using a glass/ceramic spade bit - succeeded in one block (took forever), but cracked two others. Any ideas?
Henry: Just make sure that you use a bit with a carbide tip and they're made to drill specifically in ceramic tile, glass, and other hard surfaces. As you drill, add a couple of drops of water as you go. This will help keep the drill bit cool. Always use a slow speed. Just take your time.

Q: I have looked all over the place and I keep getting conflicting opinions as to the best way to exhaust a bathroom fan. Some say it can be vented through the soffit and others say it shouldn't. Both bathrooms are on the front side of a single story hip roofed ranch. I would prefer to vent it through the soffit in terms of aesthetics. (Roof vents would be very visible from the street) However , I want it done right regardless of looks. Any info would be appreciated.
Henry: Take it out through the roof. There are unobtrusive hoods that have low profiles that are used all the time that are very useful. The roof is my first choice. Through the siding is my second choice. As far as exhausting through the soffits, I just don't recommend it. The reason is depending on the direction of the wind and the current venting configuration of your home, the exhaust air coming from your bathroom fan could end up going right back through the soffits and into your attic.

Q: Is it wise to put drywall over plaster rather than remove it? I know I will have to extend door and window casing, move outlets and switches out 1/2 inch. Thanks.
Henry: If you're willing to do that, it's fine. If the plaster is in pretty good shape, you can cover the plaster with 1/4" plywood. You will change the profiles a bit, but that isn't a problem, and it's a lot easier than removing all that old plaster.

Q: I replaced my door bell in July of this year. It worked until Sept. I have replaced the button on the outside of the house and it still doesn't work. Of course I paid a good amount for the bell but didn't save the box. Any ideas?
Henry: I would always go with a wireless doorbell. You can always go back to the store or call the company that manufactured the doorbell and have them send you the owner's manual. Go through the troubleshooting checklist. If it's what I call a hard-wired doorbell (wired into the house), check the transformer and most of the time the transformers are located at your electrical breaker box. Then check the wiring on the chime and then the wiring on the back of the doorbell itself--the pushbutton. But the owner's manual will thoroughly map out a troubleshooting procedure. Doorbells are very simple devices and are basically all the same with the exception of the wireless units.

Q: In my master bedroom I have a large window overlooking the backyard. I would really love to turn it into a double French door. I measured it and found a nice door set at Home Depot that will fit perfectly with the height and width. So it seems that all I have to do is remove the window and knock out the lower section of the wall and put in the door. It sounds easy enough, but something tells me there will be more to it than that. Any building tips? I'm not a novice handyman and have done many large projects around the home including brick and masonry work, electrical, and quite a bit of major landscaping. But never anything concerning an exterior wall. Do you have any advice for me? Potential pitfalls I should avoid?
Henry: Basically just be careful. First have a plan; then check for electrical outlets, gas lines, phone lines that may be in that area. If it's clear, start your demolition or deconstruction from the inside. Expose all of the studs surrounding the big window. Check your measurements. Make sure that your new French door set will work in the opening. Make preparation to beef up the header that is over the window so it will carry the weight and transfer the weight from the roof down around your new door. Once you give it the OK here, get all of your new studs and framing members set to go. Set up a temporary brace that will support the ceiling area around the window where you'll be working. Tear out the outside. Rebuild the frame, and install your new French doors.

HGTV: Well, everyone, our chat hour has ended. Thanks for joining us tonight. And thank you, Henry, for taking the time to answer our questions.

Henry Harrison: It's been a great joy, as always. This is a fun time for me and I'm looking forward to meeting with you again at our regular chat here. The next one is March 5. In the mean time, don't forget to watch us on the Weekend Workzone. Goodnight!