Home Improvement and Repair Chat—09/04/2002
HGTV: Welcome to HGTV's hosted chat room. Tonight, Henry Harrison, home improvement/repair expert and host of Help Around the House, is here to answer your home improvement and repair questions. Good evening, Henry!
Henry Harrison:Good evening and welcome! I hope that everyone had a wonderful Labor Day, and I am sure you are ready to start some projects between now and Labor Day 2003.
Question: How do you finish wood stairs? Step by step?
HH: What I normally do, whether I am painting or varnishing, I will strip all of the stairs and adjacent parts and sand and smooth—along with removing all dust with a vacuum cleaner and tack cloth. Then, I will apply a light coat of stain, varnish or paint to every other step. I will come back the next day and repeat the same process with the remaining steps. Skipping steps gives you complete access.
Q: Henry, we have installed a ceramic tile in our kitchen and put a subfloor of backer board and screwed it to the floor. Several days later the grout cracked. We replaced the grout, and it occurred again.
HH: Probably what has happened is that the thinset adhesive that was used to attach the tile to the backer board was either improperly mixed, applied to thinly or was overworked with the trowel.
Q: How do you fix doorjambs that are cut too high?
HH: Well, if in fact the doorjbam has been cut too high, the most effective solution is to remove the trim and drop the header—which is the thick piece of wood that horizontally connects the two side jambs—drop this head jamb to where it is about an eighth of an inch from the top of the door. Then reinstall the trim.
Q: Henry, you are a dear man. I'm planning on building a deck to the back of my house. Problem is, basement windows are ground level, have to use them for basement also need to keep water away from house. Any suggestion on the matter?
HH: I would definitely build the deck away from the windows. Consider a split deck with safety railings and a bridge connecting the two splits. In other words, your windows will still be functional and your deck will be built away from the windows. I don't recommend building over the windows because of drainage problems ventilation problems and a reduction of sunlight. So, build around the windows if possible.
Q: How can you be sure that you your heating and cooling system is running at its true capacity? Our heating and cooling system is about 8 years old. How can we be sure that after 8 years it is running at its proper efficiency? It seems we pay more for electric bills lately than we should. What we do to make sure it is running as it should?
HH: Well, the first and probably most effective thing is to enter into a service contract with a heating and air-conditioning specialist who will come out at least twice a year to run field checks on your system. The technician will clean and surface your system.
Q: I have a striker plate on a doorjamb that is held on by only one screw because the other one falls out. Can it be fixed without replacing the door jamb/frame? And if so, how?
HH: Try a three-inch (or three-and-a-half inch) drywall screw to try and get the extra bite needed. If this doesn't work, replace the existing plate with an oversized striker plate. It will still line up correctly, but the mortise that holds the plate into the jam will have to be chiseled out and the new screwholes will be in a different location where you will be able to get a more secure bite.
Q: What is the best way to take up tile without breaking?
HH: If it is ceramic tile, there will be a lot of breakage. However, if you can remove a considerable amount of the grout between the tiles and then use a wide, flexible putty knife to get under the tile and break away the thinset holding it to the subfloor—this will help minimize breakage. However, if you plan on using these tiles, you will still be faced with the task of cleaning the old thinset or adhesive from the backs of the tiles. This is very labor-intensive. You can remove most of the adhesive with a grinding wheel, and the rest very carefully with a cold chisel. It would only be worth it with rare or highly expensive tiles.
Q: Henry, wanted to say thanks to you and the crew of the show, Great Work. I get at least one good tip from each show!
HH: Thanks very much for the pat on the back. You have made my day! I will pass along those compliments to the crew.
Q: Hi, Henry! Love your show. if you were going to buy power tools for a wood working shop, which three tools would you buy first??
HH: If they are stationary tools, my first choice would be a table saw. Second would be a router and router table, and the third would be a sanding station. This would include, in one tool, a 12-inch disk and a 4x36-inch belt sander (in the same unit). That way you can cut, shape and finish most of your projects with those three tools.
Q: How can I get you to come to my home in Covington, Ga. to be on your show and help me fix our door jams?
HH: That would be very easy to do IF there are some collard greens, candied yams, fresh rolls... LOL. But at this time, we're only taping in Seattle and Houston. But Covington, Ga., sounds like a nice place to come visit sometime.
Q: Is there a way to resurface bathtubs and wall tiles? We have recently retiled a bathroom floor, but now the tub needs to change color as well as the wall tiles to match nicely.
HH: Well, the tub is usually best done by a professional because the most effective way is to etch the tub with an acid solution, then apply an epoxy primer and finish. But it takes specialized tools and training to do it properly. There are paints on the market available to change the color of tile, however their lifespan is very limited and the surfaces are very fragile. It may be more cost-effective to completely change out the tile and backing surface all at one time to the color of your choice rather than paint it.
Q: Can that technique be done to the wall tiles as well, Henry?
HH: Yes, I'm sure it can, the only problem is that you'll have to get a company that will do the work on location. Other companies will take the tubs and wash basins to their place to do the work. So it's best to check with each company.
Q: Can you tell me how to make a flag pole and get the flag to go up and down
HH: Probably the most effective way to take care of this would be to contact your local school district and ask them to give you the name of their suppliers. A lot of those companies sell flagpoles (in addition to many other things) directly to school systems. That would be a good start. This way you will get a strong pole that will stand up to all conditions and serve your purpose well.
Q: About the breaking grout and removing of the ceramic tiles... Would another alternative be to use a different type of grout? Is there a high strength flexible grout? Thanks.
HH: It is good if you can get a grout that has acrylic—an acrylic base. Latex acrylic base that will allow for some expansion and contraction. However, it will be limited. Keep in mind that around the perimeter of the room, grout should not be used, and caulk should be, also between the tiles and a cabinet or any other object. The buffer will have to be able to move. That is why I recommend using caulk instead of grout. Usually, where cracks appear in the grout are in areas along the perimeter or where the tile comes in contact with a dissimilar material.
Q: What are the pros and cons of scoring concrete and staining it. Is it hard to keep clean and what is the best color to use so that dirt won't show?
HH: It depends on whether the concrete is in a living area, or a garage or on the exterior. Say a patio. There is definitely an advantage to scoring the concrete. And that is that it makes the surface less slippery. It makes it more slip-resistant. Concrete with no etching or broom marks becomes slick as ice when wet. As far as colors go, the darker the better to hide dirt. And stains. A happy medium would be an intermediate gray.
Q: My fireplace (not functional) has been painted, just the bricks not the grout. What can I use to strip this off?
HH: I would go ahead and try one of the commercial paint strippers. But one you can spray on. Keep in mind that once the paint is stripped some of the color will probably bleed into the grout lines. So strip carefully and be prepared to come back and bleach the grout lines.
Q: I will be installing some replacement windows, any advice for shimming/trim for the new window and then what to cover the exposed wood with?
HH: As far as shimming goes, I only use shims to allow the mating surfaces to match perfectly. And then, of course, I cut the shims off neatly behind the trim and completely caulk everything. As far as finishes go, that depends on the type of wood or material you are using for trim. If it is a high-grade cabinet type trim, say mahogany or oak, or a highly figured wood, then you may consider a light stain and varnish. If your trim is made of a wood composite fiberboard or unfigured wood, you would want to paint it—with a primer and then the color of your choice.
Q: So how do we set up a work day for you to help us with grouting and possibly removing tiles... This sounds like fun???
HH: It also sounds...like a backbreaker. Send pictures! LOL.
Q: We need to redo our front concrete walkway (approx. 20 feet long). Are there "rules" for redoing a concrete walkway? i.e., should there be a layer of gravel be placed underneath it, and how much and how much? What is the procedure for replacing it?
HH: First of all, you will need to completely demolish the old walkway. Clear the soil of all debris. Establish a new walkway zone. Determine your new width and length. Mark your perimeters with stakes. Build your forms so that they will be able to handle a walkway that is four inches thick. This means the excavation or depth of the walkway will be in the neighborhood of six inches deep. This will allow proper compaction of the existing soil. That means renting a tamper (a pad that bounces around with a lot of weight on it) to tamp the soil. After the tamping process, add an inch-thick layer of clean sand. Then, an inch of medium gravel followed by wire mesh and hats, which look like small triangles that, will lift the mesh above the gravel by about an inch. Also, there is one thing I forgot in there. This is VERY important. After the tamping is done, a vapor barrier or what they call "landscape cloth" should be installed. It looks like a roll of tarpaper with small holes that will allow the soil to drain but keep vegetation from growing. Getting back to the wire mesh Once all of this is in place, divide your walkway into sections. If it is a 20-foot walkway, divide it into 4 sections 5 feet long with wooden dividers between each section. The dividers are expansion areas and will allow for quick repairs, if you have a section that goes bad. It will also keep cracks or fractures from running from one section to the next. Once this is done, measure the area, call your concrete supplier, give them the dimensions and they will give you an estimate of the number of cubic yards of concrete you will need to complete your project. Concrete is sold by the cubic yard. Usually the large trucks you see on the road carry about nine cubic yards. Have everything set to go, because when the concrete shows up and the truck starts to pour, there is no turning back.
Q: Is there a "waterproof" (ex. DryLoc) paint for cement basements that you can put over painted walls? If not, how do you go about stripping the paint off of cement walls?
HH: That's a good question. I have used the dry lock product before... but on a new surface. I would read the container closely. If they don't address the issue of UGL drylock, just call and ask the company. I would think that if the surface is clean and the paint is not peeling, or if the peeling paint has been removed, then the drylock should work. But check with the company just to make sure.
Q: I'm remodeling my kitchen and have installed hardwood floors. Should I stain and finish the floor before or after installing the cabinets?
HH: I would do it after everything is done in the kitchen.
Q: My husband has wondered what a 5-in-1 tool is for. Thank you for explaining it so well and for showing its many uses on different shows. Keep up the good work!
HH: I never leave home without it. It's a great tool to have when you have nothing else.
Q: How many uses are there for a 5-in-1 painters tool, I love to hear that in the tools needed segment!
HH: First of all, you can use it as a chisel. You can also use the handle as a hammer because it has a hardened tip to it. The curved edge is used to clean paint from rollers. The opposite side from the curved edge can be used as a flathead screwdriver. It's also a very effective paint scraper and, on some of the tools, they have a teardrop in the center of the blade that can be used as a nail-puller.
Q: Henry, ever do a show in MD? Love the show :)
HH: Not yet. We would love to come out to Maryland, especially in the fall or spring.
Q: I am painting my walls brown, and ceiling white. How can I keep a clean line between the two?
HH: There are a number of edging tools on the market, and I would start by painting the ceiling first. That way you can allow the white to drift over into the walls. Then come back with either an edging tool or, I always do it by hand—by eye—using a two and a half-inch sash brush. The name of the brushes I use—Purdy or a top of line Sherwin Williams. 2-1/2 inch sash brush that has a wedge and an angled tip with bristles that have flagged ends—they sorta look like split ends on hair. These brushes hold a tremendous amount of paint without dripping and allow you to cut a very sharp line. Start about an inch away from the ceiling and gradually ease your way with the brown paint toward the ceiling. Keep your brush loaded with paint at all times. Don't starve the brush. Just let it flow on the wall and keep the line moving. If you make a mistake and some of the brown paint gets on the ceiling have a clean, white rag ready to wipe away the excess. The reason I don't use edging tools is because if you don't constantly clean the edge paint will then run under the edge and get onto the area you are trying to protect.
Q: I am taking my floor up in the kitchen but I would like to put down some wood, will that be hard to do
HH: It depends on how the floor is currently attached. And if the existing floor contains asbestos, and if it is applied with an adhesive. So there are a lot of variables there. I recommend experimenting in an area that is out of the way and is not normally seen. You may find that once you get one small section up, the rest of it is a piece of cake. Or you may be looking at a bear with a big bite right off the bat.
Q: Henry, are you going to do any shows on refacing cabinets?
HH: That is an excellent suggestion that I'm going to pass along. That is a very cost-effective way to change the appearance of a kitchen or bath. I will pass that on. Thank you.
Q: My front door needs a new weather strip. Do I just rip off the old one and glue the new one on?
HH: You can do that. It depends on whether the weatherstrip is attached to the bottom, sides or top. Sometimes it's nailed, glued or actually molded into the door. So it just depends. I would take out a small section and go to the hardware store and match it. And go from there.
Q: Henry, I have an episode on tape where you full explained all the uses of the 5 in 1 painters tool towards the end of the show, you might want to suggest that episode as well. :) Also, one last question: How do you tighten a ceiling fan on a cathedral ceiling? When it's located in a townhouse over a king-size bed?
HH: Probably what you'll have to do is rent two ladders—tall ladders and run a plank between the two, or erect two sections of scaffolding and move the bed aside. The scaffolding would be a lot safer, but two ladders and a plank would be quicker, and you wouldn't have to move the bed. That episode number for the 5-1 tool is ARH-150. It'll air at some point again.
Q: I'm refinishing my kitchen floor (hardwood) and am installing a Viking range (yes, you can see the hardwood floor under the legs of the stove). In what sequence should I have the floors refinished?
HH: In that case, I would go ahead and put the initial finish on the floor—THEN, bring in the range. Get it set, and you are going to have to put at least two more coats on anyway—so you should be able to sand and recoat after the range is installed. I would try to get one and possibly two coats down first, so the floor is sealed under the range. Otherwise the wood under the range could buckle or crack, or even cause the adjoining wood to buckle or crack. So two coats before the range comes in, then the work, } then top it off with a third coat. That sounds right.
HGTV: Well, everyone, our chat hour has ended. Thanks for joining us this evening. It's been a very engaging chat! And thank you, Henry, for spending time with us today.
Henry Harrison: Thank you! It's always a fun experience for me. Don't forget to come visit during the next chat and keep watching the Weekend Work Zone, only on HGTV. Have a wonderful evening.
