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How to Make the Wonder Twin Powers Activate Ring

Eleanore Macnish combines glass and silver to create this ring.

Materials and Tools:

large glass disk shaped bead - approximately 1 cm x 3 cm
20-gauge silver sheet - cut 1 cm wide (for ring)
1" sterling disk
sterling tubing*
24-gauge silver sheet - to cut out little designs for the top of the ring
5 mm stone cabochon (citrine, turquoise and peridot)
5 mm sterling bezel cup, serrated
14-gauge sterling wire
files and/or sandpaper in varying grits
liver of sulfur in heated Crock-Pot
ring-sizing mandrel
glass mandrel
mini mashers
stringer glass
safety glasses
jeweler's coping saw
drill press and small bits
needle-nose pliers
half-round pliers
2 pair of tweezers
small brush
glass bead release
graphite pad
ring-sizing ruler
permanent marker
rawhide mallet
center punch
dapping block
rubber gloves
wire brush
epoxy glue
bezel rocker
wire cutters
*Sterling tubing should be small enough to fit through the hole of the bead but large enough to ALMOST fit snugly (you want the bead to be able to spin).


1. Dip a glass mandrel in bead release. Light the torch and heat the mandrel in the flame. Heat a rod of red glass in the flame and wrap it onto the mandrel. Keep turning the mandrel layering the glass until it forms a disc.

2. Flatten the glass disc with mini mashers. Roll the glass disc on a graphite pad to even out the shape. Add dots, glass lines and a border to the glass bead with various colors of glass stringer. Place the bead in the kiln to reduce the temperature gradually.

3. Solder a 1-inch length of 14-gauge wire at a 90-degree angle to the back of the bezel cup. Pickle in a heated liver of sulfur solution. Rinse in water and dry.

4. Anneal a strip of silver sheet — which means heating it with a torch so it will bend more easily. Pick it up with tweezers and place it in a bowl of water. Measure it for the correct ring length using a ring sizing ruler and permanent marker. Saw it to the correct length and file the ends flat.

5. Crudely bend the silver strip to form a ring. Even out the ends with half-round pliers. Wiggle the ring back and forth until the ends meet and are level with each other.

6. Using wire cutters cut a pallion of solder large enough to travel up the height of the ring when melted. Lay the ring on the pallion, apply flux, solder the seam together and pickle the ring in the heated liver of sulfur solution. Rinse in water and dry.

7. Mount a ring mandrel in a vise and tightly fit the ring onto the mandrel. Pound the ring with a rawhide mallet. Keep turning the ring and sliding it further and further up the mandrel until it is perfectly round.

8. Smooth out the edges inside and outside.

9. Using a 1-inch sterling silver disk, mark the center hole location.

10. Mark the location of decorative holes randomly around the disk and include a hole in the center.

11. Use a center punch and a hammer to make a dent in each dot you made with the marker to prevent the drill bit from skidding.

12. Drill the holes using a drill press and small bit.

13. De-bur the holes with a bit a little larger than the bit you used to drill the holes by twisting the bit in the top and bottom of each hole.

14. Give the disk a cup shape by hammering it into the well of a dapping block. Smooth the edges with a file.

15. Cut a flower shaped piece of metal for the top of the ring using a jeweler's saw. Smooth the edges.

16. Drill a hole in center of the flower shape for the top of the ring. De-bur the holes.

17. Slide the cupped bottom disk, bead and top decorative shape onto the silver tube. Mark the length of the whole assembly. Slide everything off the tube and cut the tube about 2 mm longer than the location of the mark. File the ends.

18. Using a pair of tweezers in a clamp, hold the ring upright and with another pair of tweezers position the tube at a 90-degree angle to the ring making sure the bottom of the tube is touching the ring.

19. Apply flux, then solder the tube to the ring and place the piece in the heated pickle solution. Rinse in water and dry.

20. Stack the silver cupped disk, bead and silver top shape on the tube on top of the ring and slide everything onto the ring mandrel. Rotate a scribe around the inside edge of the tube to flare the edges. With a rounded punch (or just a small hammer with a rounded end) gently tap around the edge to curl the edge down.

21. Push the bezel set on the wire down into the tube. Trim if it does not sit flush on top of the ring. Hammer the end of the wire out a little and fit it into the tube. Repeat until the wire is wide enough to be wedged into the tube. Make sure the tube is dry. Make a few scratches on the wire with a file to give the wire a tooth. Put a dot or two of epoxy on the wire and wedge it into the tube.

22. Let the ring cure for 24 hours.

23. Set the stone into the bezel by pressing in the sides of the bezel to cover the rounded edge of the stone with a bezel rocker.


  • Wear safety glasses when working with glass

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