Portobello and Cremini Mushrooms

What To Buy: Cremini, the size of regular button mushrooms, work well cooked whole (they will shrink). If mushrooms are to be chopped finely, cremini are better to use than portobellos — the smaller mushrooms are cheaper. When the mushroom will be used as a meatlike ingredient and its texture matters, use full-size portobellos — grilled or roasted whole, or sauteed in slices or chunks.

As they mature, the gills of portobellos turn from pinkish tan to dark chocolate. The midrange is best, as flavor gets more intense with age, but when the mushrooms are too old, they can taste muddy. (The darker the gills are, the more they will darken any light-colored sauce; if that's a problem, scrape out the gills).

Avoid mushrooms that are shriveled; feel soft, damp or slippery; or have crumbled edges, white spots or a sour (not musky) odor.

How To Store: Cremini, refrigerated in the special breathable plastic they're usually wrapped in, will keep up to a week.

If not using larger portobellos immediately, unwrap, spread uncrowded on a baking sheet and cover loosely with dry toweling (or arrange well separated in a large paper bag); refrigerate up to a week.

How To Clean: Clean mushrooms just before using them. Never soak mushrooms in water; they will become mushy.

If they will be cooked in liquid, rinse quickly and blot dry. If they will be grilled, roasted or sauteed, clean with paper towels or a brush. Remove the woody stem of portobellos. (Use it for soup or discard it.)

How To Cook: All cooking methods work equally well for portobellos and creminis. Times below are for portobellos; creminis will cook a little faster.

To roast: Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Brush mushrooms with olive oil or butter or spray with nonstick cooking spray. Place on a baking sheet cap side up. Roast for about 20 minutes, until tender.

To broil: Preheat the broiler, brush the mushrooms with olive oil, put them in the broiling pan cap side up and broil close to the heat 3 to 4 minutes on each side, brushing the caps again before turning, until they are tender. (Watch closely to prevent charring.)

To grill: With grill at medium heat, brush the mushrooms with olive oil, put them on the grill cap side up (skewer or contain creminis) and grill 4 to 5 minutes on each side, brushing the caps again before turning, until they are tender. (Watch closely to prevent charring.)

To sauté: Heat a little olive oil or butter in a large skillet (to avoid crowding) over medium-high heat. Sauté the mushrooms (whole, sliced or chopped), stirring or turning until they are tender, about 5 to 6 minutes. If sautéing onions, garlic or peppers, too, add them after a minute or so.

It's possible to microwave mushrooms, but it doesn't save much time and the results are awfully soggy.

Use cooked whole caps in sandwiches with burger fixings, olive spreads, cheeses, flavored cream cheese and the like. Or fill raw whole caps with anything you choose (spinach and cheese, cream cheese and sautéed onions, crab dip, bread stuffing), and bake at 350 degrees until filling and mushrooms are heated through, finishing with a few minutes under the broiler to toast the tops if that sounds good.

Otherwise, cut cooked portobello caps or creminis into slices or chunks (or sauté portobello slices or chunks — or whole or halved creminis) and add to main dishes, side dishes, pasta, sauces and vegetables.

Equivalence: Six ounces of coarsely chopped portobello or cremini mushrooms is a little more than 2 cups.