Nourishing Noodles

by Kathie Smith
The Toledo Blade

As a humble cousin of trendy pasta, noodles are a delicious comfort food enjoyed throughout the world.

At this time of year, everybody loves noodles, whether they're in tuna noodle casserole, chicken noodle soup, or beef stroganoff--beef in a sour cream sauce ladled on a bed of noodles. Some folks just serve noodles buttered and sprinkled with parsley flakes and Parmesan cheese.

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Asian bean noodles
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Hungarian noodles

Nourishing and satisfying, noodle recipes were brought to America via the Dutch and Germans. Later, an array of dishes from Russia and Hungary appeared. Noodle kugels, or baked noodle puddings, are traditionally served on the Jewish Sabbath.

In recent years, a diverse selection of noodles from Asia has become available. Pan-fried noodles, ramen noodle soup, lo mein, and Pad Thai dishes are moving to the mainstream in the American diet.

Note that this world of noodles is not pasta. From linguine to lo mein, from soba to fettuccine, from Pennsylvania Dutch and German specialties to Hungarian dishes, every noodle has a unique recipe.

However, All About Pasta & Noodles (Scribner) by Irma S. Rombauer, Marion Rombauer Becker, and Ethan Becker uses "pasta" to refer to the Italian version, and "noodles" when referring to eastern European and Asian dishes.

The Food Lover's Companion (Barron's) says noodles contain eggs or egg yolks, while macaroni and spaghetti do not. Usually noodles are cut into flat, thick, or thin strips.

Toth said he labels some of his noodles as fettuccine and spaghetti because the Hungarian words for those shapes are unfamiliar to American consumers.

Whether you make your own or buy homemade or commercially processed varieties, noodles cook quickly. When combined with other ingredients, those flat dried strips are wonderful in casseroles, soups, and as accompaniment to entrees.

Even newer to the American table are Asian noodles.

"Oriental noodles have more choices," says Grace Gau, an expert in Asian cooking who occasionally buys different selections at Asian food stores in Windsor, Ont. Some are made with egg, some with rice, bean, or wheat. "They have different flavors, too. Some are flavored with fish and different spices," she added.

Many varieties of Asian noodles are available. Much of the labeling is printed in Japanese and Chinese, but some English directions are on the package. If you don't understand the labels, ask a store clerk for more information.

To prepare noodles, Gau notes that "some noodles boil in a couple of seconds or in five minutes. Bean noodles soak in water. Rice noodles soak in hot water and then you stir-fry them, adding broth to make them juicier."

In northern China, cold Asian noodles are a common dish. "These have a round shape, yellow color, and you add sesame paste and sesame oil and serve it with meat or not, shredded Chinese cucumber and sesame seed," Gau said.

Bean paste enhances the flavor of noodles. "Vegetarians use bean paste and tofu with noodles," said Gau, who grew up in Taiwan. "The texture of pasta is different than Oriental noodles, which are finer."

Noodles or pasta. Take your pick. Mix and match.

We think of chicken noodle soup as being made with egg noodles. Soup (Simon & Schuster) from Williams-Sonoma includes the recipe for Chicken and Soba Noodle Soup made with chicken stock, one boneless chicken breast, eight ounces dried soba noodles, 1/4 cup miso, one teaspoon grated fresh ginger, two cups packed baby spinach leaves, and sliced green onions.

Sweet Pepper Stir Fry on Rice Noodles is reminiscent of a northern Chinese dish with the sesame oil and fresh ginger. Cook the rice noodles according to package directions.

Noodles that are long and uncut symbolize longevity in the Asian culture. They may be eaten hot or cold.

Soba is a Japanese noodle made from buckwheat and wheat flour, which gives a dark brownish-gray color. Udon is a thick Japanese noodle similar to spaghetti, which can be round or squared and made from wheat or corn flour.

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Asian wheat noodles
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Traditional egg noodles

China's cellophane noodles are made from mung-bean starch; egg noodles are usually egg-based, and ramen are wheat-based egg noodles. Most ramen noodles in supermarkets are Asian instant-style deep-fried noodles often sold with bits of dehydrated vegetables and broth mix.

Lo mein is a Chinese dish of boiled noodles combined with stir-fried ingredients such as chicken, pork, and vegetables. The cooked noodles are tossed with other stir-fried ingredients at the last minute and then coated with a stir-fry sauce.

Pad Thai is Thailand's best-known noodle dish. It combines cooked rice noodles, salty fermented fish sauce called nam pla, tofu, shrimp, crushed peanuts, bean sprouts, garlic, chilies, and eggs, all stir-fried together.

Indeed, noodles are a world of their own.

Sweet Pepper Stir Fry on Rice Noodles

Sauce Ingredients:

1 to 2 Tbs. honey
3 to 4 Tbs. soy sauce
1/3 cup orange juice
1/4 cup water
1 Tbs. cornstarch

Preparation:

In a small bowl, combine sauce ingredients and set aside.

Ingredients:

2 Tbs. sesame oil
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 tsp. grated fresh ginger
1/2 each yellow, red, and orange pepper, sliced
1/2 cup snow peas, wash and remove ends
one 14-oz. can baby corn
one 10-oz. can sliced water chestnuts
1/2 head Chinese celery cabbage, chopped
6 cups cooked rice noodles, cooked according to package directions

Preparation:

In a nonstick wok or skillet, heat sesame oil. Add garlic and ginger, then stir for 30 seconds. Add peppers, snow peas, corn and water chestnuts. Stir-fry until crisp but heated through--about three to four minutes. Add sauce, heat, and stir until it thickens. Reduce heat and add celery cabbage. Stir. Serve immediately on a bed of rice noodles.

Yield: 4 servings

Chicken Noodle Soup

Ingredients:

3 qts. water or enough to cover chicken in pot
1 chicken, chopped
1 onion, coarsely chopped
1 celery stalk, coarsely chopped
bouquet garni (small bunch parsley, fresh thyme, and bay leaf)
2 cups egg noodles
salt and pepper to taste

Preparation:

Put chicken, onion, celery, and bouquet garni in a four-quart pot, filled with three quarts of water. Simmer uncovered for three hours, adding water as needed to cover. Remove chicken, discarding bone and skin. Remove bouquet garni. Strain broth. Cut up chicken into bite-size pieces. Return to chicken stock. Add egg noodles and cook until tender--about four to five minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Yield: 8 to 10 servings

Noodle Kugel

Ingredients:

1 lb. broad noodles
1/4 lb. margarine
4 eggs
1 qt. milk
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 pint sour cream
one 18-oz. jar of apricot preserves

Preparation:

Cook noodles until tender. Drain and rinse. Melt margarine and pour into a 9- by-13-inch pan. Coat bottom and sides of pan with it. Put noodles into the pan and mix until coated. Beat eggs, milk, sugar, and sour cream together and pour over noodles.

Mix in a 1/2 jar of apricot preserves, reserving balance for placing on top of kugel before baking. Bake at 350 degrees for 1-1/2 hours or until knife inserted comes out clean.

Yield: 12 servings

(Distributed by Scripps Howard News Service.)

Resources
All About Pasta & Noodles (Joy of Cooking)
by Irma S. Rombauer (ISBN: 0743202112)
(Scribner, September 2000)
Order this title.


Soup (Williams-Sonoma Collection)
by Diane Rossen Worthington, Chuck Williams (Editor) (ISBN: 074322444)
(Simon & Schuster, 2001)
Order this title.


The New Food Lover's Companion
by Sharon Tyler Herbst
Barrons Educational Series, March 2001
Order this title from Amazon.com.
The full title is The New Food Lover's Companion: Comprehensive Definitions of Nearly 6000 Food, Drink, and Culinary Terms (Barron's Cooking Guide)