Review by Rebecca Sodergren
Pittsburgh Post-Gazette Paul Abrams, author of The Sport of Cooking cookbook, has studied at cooking schools, worked in catering and eaten in fine restaurants all over the world. But when he compiled favorite recipes for his cookbook, he decided he didn't want to seem too serious. "I said, 'This ought to be fun'--and what's more fun and current than sports?"
His goal for the cookbook, then, was "to try to make a sporting event out of going into the kitchen." Why did he feel the need to do that? Because the audience he was targeting--young, inexperienced cooks, particularly men--had little chance of going into the kitchen at all otherwise. As he puts it, the great cookbooks of the 1960s and '70s contained recipes that required 90 minutes' preparation or more. Now, "a person comes home from work at 7 or 8 o'clock and says, 'I'm not getting in that kitchen.' They think it could take hours to prepare a meal."
But cooking--even gourmet cooking--doesn't have to take forever and require pots, pans, spatulas and whisks all over the kitchen. After being served meals in fine European restaurants, Abrams is convinced that great cooking sometimes just requires "knowing a few secrets." He shares some in the cookbook, such as how to cook shrimp, which can then be paired with a few simple ingredients--olive oil and lemon, perhaps--to create splendid meals. What he discovered was that cooking was "really good therapy"--and even fun.
To convey that sense of fun in his cookbook, he includes pictures of people playing sports, gives each recipe a "degree of difficulty" based on ratings used at diving meets, and includes a "coach's corner" with each recipe, listing such tips as where to buy certain ingredients and how to tell if the dish is done. Each recipe starts with a notation like "ingredients for four to six cleanup batters" or "ingredients for six to eight boxers" (although we're sure the non-sporting types will be glad to eat, too).
Entrees are heavy on fish, but there are recipes for other meats and sides as well. It's good to have a grill if you're buying this cookbook--many of the meat and fish recipes require one. Desserts are light, and most require little or no baking because Abrams doesn't like baking half as much as cooking. The book is available through bookstores or online booksellers.
Curried Seafood Salad
Score the match point with this international favorite. Brings together wonderful seafood flavors and the mild chutney flavors of Asia. Larger portions with fresh herb bread can make an elegant dinner.
Salad Ingredients:
1/2 lb. medium peeled shrimp, cooked (we bought precooked shrimp at the grocery store's seafood counter)
12 lb. lump crabmeat
1/2 lb. sea scallops, cut in half and poached (cook in water that is barely boiling for 10 to 15 min.)
4 scallions, chopped
1 cup celery, chopped fine
6 leaves Romaine lettuce
Dressing Ingredients:
3 Tbs. mayonnaise
1/4 cup mango chutney (available in grocery stores--see tester's note)
1 Tbs. lemon juice
1 Tbs. mild curry powder (available in grocery stores of Indian restaurants)
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 fresh mango or peach, chopped (must be fresh and sweet; if not, omit)
Preparation:
Place the cooked shrimp, crabmeat, scallops, scallions and celery in a large mixing bowl. To make the dressing, combine the ingredients in a separate bowl and mix. Pour the dressing over the seafood and vegetables and toss gently. Line a platter with lettuce leaves and arrange salad on top.
* Tester's note: We went light on the mango chutney, which has a strong flavor.
Prep time: 30 min.
Cooking time: 30 min.
Yield: 6 servings
Sauteed Chicken in Mustard Sauce
Ingredients:
4 to 6 boned, skinless chicken breasts, cut into long slices
3 Tbs. butter
1 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup light cream
2 Tbs. mustard
Preparation:
In a large skillet, saute the chicken pieces in butter over moderately high heat for four to five minutes on each side. Transfer the chicken to a heated platter and keep warm. Add wine to the pan and deglaze the pan, scraping up the brown bits clinging to the bottom and sides. Add cream and mustard. Simmer the mixture, stirring, until it is well reduced and thickened. Add salt and pepper to taste. Spoon the sauce over the chicken.
Coach's Corner
- Use a French Dijon mustard, if possible.
- Cooking time varies with thickness of chicken. Cut at thickest part to determine doneness. Cooked meat will be white.
- If sauce gets too thick, stir in a little water to thin it.
Prep time: 10 min.
Cooking time: 25 min.
Yield: 4 servings
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