Biltmore Chateau Cuisine

by Joyce Rosencrans
The Cincinnati Post

When visiting America's largest mansion, the 1890s' Biltmore Estate in Asheville, N.C., the drive from the front gates to the 250-room French Renaissance chateau and walled garden is long indeed.

There will be time for a nap, for others besides the car's driver, who must remain alert to negotiate all the gentle curves beneath a heavy tree canopy. Talk about a tree-lined driveway!

A new cookbook, Bounty of Biltmore Cookbook: A Recipe Collection from Biltmore Estate (Oxmoor House, $24.95) tells the story of Vanderbilt's careful land management:

"Vanderbilt conceived Biltmore Estate on the European model of a self-sufficient country property, an ideal he had observed on his travels .... The surrounding Blue Ridge acreage had been overlogged and overworked by farmers for generations, but Vanderbilt and his landscape architect thought that proper care could restore the earth to a more fruitful state.

"As work progressed on the house, Olmsted advocated agricultural endeavors along the rich river bottoms. A vegetable garden and dairy were established to provide food for the estate workers and income for the expanding construction project."

The cookbook introduction continues with details of life in the manor house, which George W. himself was not to enjoy for very many years before he died. But the mansion opened for Vanderbilt guests with a huge and successful Christmas party. A giant Christmas tree inside the front door held wrapped gifts for all, even for employees' children.

The cookbook states that "George and Edith Vanderbilt entertained guests at eight-course dinners in the banquet hall" where the fireplace opening is long enough to contain entire trees and the top of the opening cannot be reached on tiptoe.

"Each place setting in the hall required 15 utensils per person, as supplied by uniformed footmen."

The recipes in this cookbook, thank heavens are not historical in nature. Victorian dining was heavy in nature. The Biltmore Bounty book is filled with quite useful recipes from the modern estate, which is managed by G.W.'s great-grandson, William A.V. Cecil Jr., chief executive officer of the Biltmore Co.

This Thanksgiving, check out the Stable Cafe's winning Sweet Potato Cheesecake to go with Spiced Cranberry Cider.
Food photos in the cookbook are enticing, yet interior views of the mansion are missing. It's a small quibble regarding a wonderful cookbook to celebrate Biltmore's "heritage of hospitality."

Recipe: Lemon Chess Pie