Keep it Quiet

Fix It Up! : Episode FIX-1211 -- More Projects »

Hosts Pat Simpson and Jodi Marks show how to soundproof a home theater room by adding acoustic wall panels. In this project, they also removed a door that was no longer needed, closed the opening with 2x4 studs and drywall, then painted the room and added crown molding.

Tools and materials:

screwdriver
hammer
pry bar
safety glasses
utility knife
scrap wood
blocking
drywall
drywall nails
circular saw
dust mask
2x4's
16-lb nails
T-square
joint compound
paper drywall tape
taping knife
10-inch joint knife
tinted latex primer
foam roller (or paintbrush)
paint and painting supplies
compound miter saw (or coping saw)
crown molding
finishing nails
pneumatic nailer (optional, a hammer will do)
sanding sponge
sponge
acoustic panels with mounting brackets
wall anchors
drill
spackle

Figure A

Steps:

Begin by removing the door. Take out the hinge pins (figure A) and carefully lift the door out of the opening.
Next, using a utility knife, score the caulking in between the molding and the wall to break the seal. Then, with a pry bar and hammer, carefully removed the interior door trim. Be sure to wear safety glasses to protect your eyes when removing the molding.
You can protect the wall by placing a piece of scrap wood under the pry bar if you need, in this case we simply used the existing studs to provide leverage for the pry-bar.
Next install the blocking. Use a utility knife, hammer and a pry-bar to remove enough drywall to expose about half the width of the studs on either side of the opening. You'll need this reveal in order to have something to attach the new drywall to.
Using a circular saw, cut some 2x4s to length for the bottom plate and the new stud. Wear eye protection and a dust mask when working with power tools.

Figure B

Figure C

Secure the bottom plate into the floor with 16-lb nails. Attach the stud by toe-nailing through the sides of the stud and into the header and bottom plate (figure B). If you are installing more than one stud be sure to measure, cut and toe-nail each individual stud.

Next hang the new drywall. Measure and cut the drywall sheet using a T-square and a utility knife to score the top paper portion of the dry wall (figure C). Snap the drywall back, away from the scored line, and then fold the drywall slightly.

With the utility knife, cut through the paper backing along the fold. Be sure to cut the drywall sheets 1/2-inch shorter than the wall height. Set the drywall in place and attach it to the studs using drywall nails.

Now tape the joints. Fill all of the nail holes with the joint compound and then begin working on the joints. Using a taping knife, spread a thin layer of joint compound along the entire length of a joint.

Figure D

Next, unroll and press paper drywall tape into the wet compound and smooth the tape out with the taping knife (figure D). Apply a second layer of joint compound over the tape, feathering the edges carefully. Repeat the procedure around the perimeter of the opening and let the compound dry according to the manufacturer's directions.

Allow the joint compound to dry overnight, the start mudding the joints. Apply a final thin layer of compound over all of the seams and nail holes. Use a 10-inch wide joint knife to feather the joints as smoothly as possible. You will actually take off most of the mud that you first put on. Once this coat is completed you should not be able to see the joint tape.

Figure E

Use a foam roller to apply a tinted latex primer to the molding (figure E), then cut and attach the molding. A foam roller gives a smooth finish, but you could also use a brush if you prefer.

After the primer dries apply your preferred paint. Since the primer was tinted you'll only have to apply one coat of paint.

With the paint dry, use a compound miter saw to cut the crown molding to length. Using a miter saw will give you nice clean cuts, but if you do not own one, you can rent one or use a coping saw to make your cuts.

Figure F

Attach the molding to the wall using finishing nails and a pneumatic nailer (figure F). Pneumatic nailers make jobs like this go by quick and easy. Again, you can rent one or a hammer works just as well. If you're using a nailer, be sure to wear proper safety gear including eye protection.

Fill the nail holes with spackle, let it dry, and sand it smooth using a sanding sponge. Touch up the nail holes in the molding with paint. Finish painting the walls. Smooth out any rough edges in the joint compound with a damp sponge.

Prime and paint the walls, then start hanging the acoustic panels.

Figure G

Figure H

Figure I

For this application, we measured out 38 inches from the front wall and 19 inches from the floor to determine the location for the first acoustic panel (figure G). We placed three panels on each of the long walls and one panel on the front and back walls.

To hang the panels, insert wall anchors and then attach brackets to the wall using a drill (figure H). With all four brackets in place, hang the first acoustic panel (figure I).

Place the panels 12 inches apart along the length of the wall until the first three panels (or however many you'll need) are in place. Repeat the same procedure for the remaining acoustic panels throughout the room.

Note: The best way to determine the locations for the wall panels for your application is to consult with an audio professional in your area.)

Guests
Jay Miller
Owner, Acoustic Innovations
1377 Clint Moore Road
Boca Raton, FL 33487
Toll-free: 800-983-6233
E-mail: questions@acousticinnovations.com
Website: www.acousticinnovations.com
Also in this Episode

Fix It Up! : Episode FIX-1211

• Keep it Quiet

Remodeling

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