Folk Art Foam Cat

Figure B

Steps:

Constructing

1. Trace the entire folk art cat pattern onto tracing paper with a permanent pen (figure A), including painting details and dotted lines. Transfer the cat shape, including dotted lines, onto 1-inch plastic foam by punching holes with a pencil about 1/8 inch apart along the traced lines (figure B). Score along the transferred solid lines by dragging the pencil and connecting the holes. Transfer the head, including dotted lines, collar and bell shapes onto 1/2-inch plastic foam.

Figure C

2. Cut out the folk art cat shapes along the scored solid lines with a serrated knife in a sawing motion. Score along the dotted lines with a pencil. Do not cut scored dotted lines. Dotted lines on the patterns designate lines on the projects that are to be scored and compressed to create dimension (grooves) in the bodies. Cut out all shapes. After cutting the plastic foam use another piece of plastic foam as a sanding block to smooth and shape the edges (figure C).

3. Using your fingers, compress the bell into a ball shape, flattened on the back.

Figure D

4. Make a 1-1/4 inch hanging hole on the back side of the cat by pressing the bottom of an acrylic paint bottle into the plastic foam. Position the hole as indicated on the pattern (figure D).

Figure E

5. Attach the cat’s head, collar, and bell to the body (see pattern for placement) with modeling paste (figure E). Model the shapes using your fingers to compress the edges. Flatten and round the collar and reshape the bell, if necessary. Compress the edges of the head to round off. Score the dotted lines between the legs about 1/8 inch deep to separate the legs. Deepen further between the back legs for more separation. Compress and round off.

6. Score the lines for the mouth about 1/8 inch deep and compress with your fingertips to make a depression.

Figure F

Applying Papier Mâché and Modeling Paste Layers

1. Cover all areas of the form with papier mâché, carefully pressing the papier mâché around the modeled areas and into scored lines (figure F). Let dry.

2. Reinforce the tail with plaster cloth to prevent breakage. Cut two strips about 3/4 inch wide and about 2 inches longer than the tail. Dip into water and place the strips vertically on the tail, starting at the top of the tail and extending down onto the body of the cat. Apply to both the front and back of the cat’s tail. Cut additional strips of plaster cloth, measuring about 1" x 4". Wrap these horizontally around the tail, working from the top to the base. Let dry.

Figure G

3. Coat the entire piece with a layer of modeling paste; covering the edges of the plaster cloth so there is no obvious dividing line (figure G). Smooth with a soft brush dipped in water. Let dry.

Figure I

Painting and Antiquing

1. Transfer the pattern for the cat’s muzzle area onto the head using transfer paper.

2. Paint the cat’s muzzle and collar Light Buttermilk and the bell Yellow Ochre. Paint the cat with a mix of Raw Sienna, Tangerine and Medium Flesh (2:2:1) (figure H). Let dry. Transfer the pattern for the checks onto the collar, and then paint alternate checks Rookwood Red. Paint inside the ears with a 1:1 mix of Yellow Ochre plus Medium Flesh (figure I).

3. Apply gold foil to the bell following manufacturer’s instructions. Seal with foil sealer. Let dry.

4. To antique the cat, brush on Earth Brown, then wipe off with a soft cloth, leaving enough color to accent the modeling paste. Antique the bell by brushing on and wiping off Soft Black.

Figure J

Details and Finishing

1. Transfer the facial features (including whisker dots) onto the head; also transfer the stripes on the cat’s body, legs, and tail (figure J). Use a liner brush and Yellow Ochre to paint the eyes. Paint the nose and mouth Burnt Umber. When dry, paint a Lamp Black line around each eye and add a pupil at the center top. Paint the two large dots and the "X" for the bell holes, using Lamp Black.

Figure K

2. Paint the stripes Burnt Umber, with a thick and thin motion, using a #6 round brush (figure K). Paint the toes with Burnt Umber.

3. Seal with a multi-purpose sealer.

Figure L

4. Use a wire cutter to cut six lengths of black wire, about 2-1/2 inches to 3 inches long for the folk art cat whiskers. Bend each wire to make it wavy and bend one end down 1/4 inch at a 90-degree angle; this will be the end inserted into the face. Use a pushpin to make holes at the whisker marks. Place a dot of tacky glue over each hole and on the bent end of each wire. Insert the wire into the holes, arranging the whiskers as desired (figure L). Add more glue if necessary. The glue will dry clear. Allow to dry thoroughly before hanging.

Folk Art Creations Tips

1. If the plastic foam breaks while you are working with it, use modeling paste to glue it back together. Allow the repaired piece to dry before continuing. Grooved or modeled areas of the plastic foam can be shaped gently with the end of a paintbrush handle.

2. Keep brushes in water to prevent modeling paste from hardening on the bristles. Clean up hardened modeling paste with soap and warm water.

3. Prepare your strips of newspaper prior to starting to papier mâché. Widths of paper from 1/2 inch to 1-1/2 inch and lengths of about 6 inches as well as smaller pieces for working in tight places.

4. Rough areas of modeling paste can be sanded with sandpaper for smoothness or reshaping.

5. Heavenly Hues Plaster and Ceramic Washes can be wiped off and reapplied many times to obtain the desired effect. Colors can be applied on top of each other when wet or dry or can be combined on the palette. For permanence, seal when dry. Enjoy experimenting with these versatile paints.

6. Commercial plastic foam cutters are available, such as the battery-operated Wonder Cutter. They work well, but should be used with good ventilation or outdoors.

7. When cutting foam core board, do not use a sawing motion which will create rough edges. It’s best to use a craft knife with a very sharp blade. Begin by scoring along the pattern line; repeat the scoring until you have cut through the board. This technique will produce smooth edges.

8. Wood or other embellishments add weight in different areas, so when adding a hanging hole to your own folk art creations, you will first need to find the balancing point.

• Poke a pushpin into the back side of the project where you think the hanger should be placed.
• Holding the piece by the pushpin, view the project from the front to see if it hangs correctly.
• If necessary, adjust the position of the pushpin until the project looks balanced.
• Remove the pushpin and mark its position.
• Draw a 1-1/4 inch circle directly below the pushpin, and then follow the instructions above for making a hanger.